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P0345 & p0349, 2005 f150 v8 5.4

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Old 11-28-2016, 02:39 PM
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Default P0345 & p0349, 2005 f150 v8 5.4

Good afternoon,
This morning, the CEL went on after about 5 minutes from initially starting my truck for the morning commute to work.

I have not noticed any loss in power, bogginess, or roughness in idle (yet). The morning drive went fine.

After plugging in the scanner and doing some quick research, I had P0345 & P0349 codes, and I read the cam sensors may have failed. But I've also read there's other things that may trigger the codes:
- Bad Alternator (but then I wouldn't be able to drive it)
- Bad Battery (but I've just replaced it 6 months ago)
- Weak Starter Motor (but it doesn't take long to crank it on, and cranks fine)


I've decided to erase the codes during lunch time and do a quick drive.
After stopping, shutting off, taking lunch, and cranking it back on, the CEL came back on again after about 5 minutes.

Again, I have not noticed any loss in power, bogginess, or roughness in idle (yet).


Any here can advise what to do?

My state inspection expires next month and I won't be able to get it renewed with the CEL on.

I'd hate to start spending money in swapping components unnecessarily.
Christmas time is coming and have to look at buy gifts for my son, nephews, and niece.


2005 Ford F150 Supercrew
V8 5.4L


Thank yall
Old 11-28-2016, 04:06 PM
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That code is for the driver side bank cam position sensor. I would replace the sensor on that side and go from there.

If that doesn't fix it, as you mentioned; could be a bad alternator, battery, VCT solenoid sticking causing the phaser to not operate the cam timing properly... and in more severe cases, it may be mechanical. Timing chain slack, broken guides, failing chain tensioner have been causes for these codes too.

Just replace the cam position sensor and that very well may resolve your issue. They are pretty inexpensive and if it were me, I'd do both cam sensors on each side.

Last edited by 07F150Lariat5.4; 11-28-2016 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:20 PM
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Okay, $22 doesn't seem like much.
I'll change it tomorrow and advise.

The evening drive home was the same except for when I was at a stop light.
Engine bogged down for a split second then revved back up on its own. Had me feeling uneasy for a few minutes, but the rest of the drive was fine.

Thanks.
Old 11-29-2016, 07:15 AM
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Good luck!
Old 11-29-2016, 05:14 PM
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I swapped out the sensor on the driver's side.
Upon pulling it out, the end was a bit gunked in oil. I swapped it regardless.
I erased the code again and turned it on, but the light came back on.

Again, no rough idling or bogging, etc.

I then decided to swap out the sensor on the passenger side as well. Although the replacements were the same make & model, I couldn't swap it out as for some reason, this specific one had a lip inside the connector that kept me from plugging the connector in. I'm going back to Oreilly to swap it out tonight on my way home.



On a side note:
A coworker of mine had a much nicer scanner; $350 compared to my cheap $40 one. I plugged his in and it said the driver's side sensor had a fault (P0345), while the passenger side sensor was intermittent (P0349).

Can anyone elaborate?
Old 11-29-2016, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by adanvjr
I swapped out the sensor on the driver's side.
Upon pulling it out, the end was a bit gunked in oil. I swapped it regardless.
I erased the code again and turned it on, but the light came back on.

Again, no rough idling or bogging, etc.

I then decided to swap out the sensor on the passenger side as well. Although the replacements were the same make & model, I couldn't swap it out as for some reason, this specific one had a lip inside the connector that kept me from plugging the connector in. I'm going back to Oreilly to swap it out tonight on my way home.



On a side note:
A coworker of mine had a much nicer scanner; $350 compared to my cheap $40 one. I plugged his in and it said the driver's side sensor had a fault (P0345), while the passenger side sensor was intermittent (P0349).

Can anyone elaborate?
Both codes are for bank 2, which is the driver side. Not sure why it would be intermittent, but it could be electrical. Do you hear any unusual noise when starting the truck in the morning? Any rattling, etc? If the new sensor doesn't fix it and given the timing chains are still good, VCT solenoids are working good, etc; then I would suspect something in the alternator, or battery. Hopefully someone else will chime in here to help out, as well.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:50 AM
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I thought I got this fixed but I was wrong.

I changed the passenger side sensor.
I also decided to disconnect and clean the negative battery terminal.
It had some corrosion and I've read that even a loose terminal can trigger the codes I'm getting.

After cleaning & letting it sit for 20 minutes, reconnecting, and then cranking up again, the code was gone. I let it run for another 20 minutes and it didn't came on. However, at the end of the day, I cranked it on to drive home and the codes came back.

Same thing, no rough idling, bogging, etc.


Is there a way to test the EVT solenoids?

I don't want to buy more parts, only to discover later that wasn't the case.
I can't return them once I install them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...431304&jsn=367
Old 12-01-2016, 09:51 AM
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Thanks for your input, btw.
Old 12-05-2016, 10:32 AM
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TTT

Hoping someone will chime in and give some input on how to test the PVT/EVT (whatever) solenoids.
Old 12-05-2016, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by adanvjr
TTT

Hoping someone will chime in and give some input on how to test the PVT/EVT (whatever) solenoids.
You can remove the VCT solenoids and inspect them for clogged/broken screens. You might be able to perform an ohm test if you knew the resistance values. However IMO, the solenoids should be replaced with the latest revision anyway, as Ford has made several improvements to the design. You should have new seals also, as chances are they will get destroyed upon removal.
Latest revision solenoid part#: 8L3Z-6M280-B
Seal part#: 3L3Z-6C535-AA
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