P0340 Code. Replaced sensor, same problem
10-14-2009, 05:09 PM
#21
okay, first thing if it is idling weird and dying at lights and probably just running bad you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere which can cause the engine to run lean and make the truck idle harder and throw various codes, which in turn wastes gas and since the air-fuel ratio is running lean the engine will try to compensate for too much air and add more gas which is probbly killing your gas mileage.
...to fix this you can check all of your vacuumlines for cracks by turning the engine on and spraying pretty much anything flammable like starter fluid along the vacuum lines and if you hear the rpm's rev up than you have found the leak and all you have to do is replace that vacuum line.
afterwards to reset the learning of your air-fuel ratio you should turn on your engine and let it get warm, than shut it off and disconnect the mass air flow sensor, than turn the engine back on for a minute, than turn it back off again, than disconnect the battery(with the mass airflow sensor still unplugged) and let it sit for 30 minutes, plug the air flow sensor back in and connect the battery and start the engine and let it run for 10 minutes...and there you go everything will be fixed.
second if your having trouble passing emissions and the o2 sensor is throwing codes you can always trick the o2 sensor reading the right way by getting an 18mm spark plug adapter and boring it out, than plu your o2 sensor into the spark plug adapter than plug the spark plug adapter into the tailpipe where the o2 sensor was previously, i have done this and it has helped me pass emissions for two years now. and since the second o2 sensor only is for emissions, it does not affect how the car runs.
...to fix this you can check all of your vacuumlines for cracks by turning the engine on and spraying pretty much anything flammable like starter fluid along the vacuum lines and if you hear the rpm's rev up than you have found the leak and all you have to do is replace that vacuum line.
afterwards to reset the learning of your air-fuel ratio you should turn on your engine and let it get warm, than shut it off and disconnect the mass air flow sensor, than turn the engine back on for a minute, than turn it back off again, than disconnect the battery(with the mass airflow sensor still unplugged) and let it sit for 30 minutes, plug the air flow sensor back in and connect the battery and start the engine and let it run for 10 minutes...and there you go everything will be fixed.
second if your having trouble passing emissions and the o2 sensor is throwing codes you can always trick the o2 sensor reading the right way by getting an 18mm spark plug adapter and boring it out, than plu your o2 sensor into the spark plug adapter than plug the spark plug adapter into the tailpipe where the o2 sensor was previously, i have done this and it has helped me pass emissions for two years now. and since the second o2 sensor only is for emissions, it does not affect how the car runs.
10-16-2009, 06:52 AM
#23
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Sorry to hear about your phasers not going so well. I saw a couple of photos on another site that showed how to align them, but not sure where it was. I will do my best to find the link and send it later in the weekend.
10-16-2009, 10:48 AM
#24
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http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=71041
try this, it may help you, not sure. Best I can do for you right now. Good Luck.
try this, it may help you, not sure. Best I can do for you right now. Good Luck.
10-18-2009, 08:41 AM
#25
Thank you wdbarnhill, that was nice of you to look that up.
That helps a little more, but my chains dont have the original marks for lining up the sprockets anymore as someone replaced the chains previously.
That helps a little more, but my chains dont have the original marks for lining up the sprockets anymore as someone replaced the chains previously.
02-05-2010, 11:01 PM
#26
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Wdbarnhill,
Great thread, Im having the exact same problems you are having except that my code is p0011 and the truck will smooth out after a bit of a drive. That leads me to believe its the oil flow to the VCT system thats clogged.
This is after replacing the Cam Phasers, VCT Solenoid, Spark Plugs and Cam Position Sensors.
The actual problem is that because the VCT system is not working properly ( at bank 1) the timing will over advance and the PCM will detect the over advanced cam, At this point the PCM will shut down bank 1 Im guessing until the restricted oil preasure builds enough for the VCT Solenoid to work properly and control the Cam Phasers. The result is that the truck will then miss, shake and hesitate VERY BAD between 1000-2000 rpms eventually smoothing out after driving down the road a while . *Results my vary... Ford service department will take all your money, scratch their heads, take more of your money and eventually say " I dont know!"
Ive done all my own work, but have had the truck in the FSD for diagnostics with much regret.
As of now Ive decided to drive the truck in Limp Mode (cam sensors unplugged) until I have time to tear down the entire top end and clean EVERYTHING out. The truck runs fine without the Cam Sensors plugged in, but im keeping the RPM's under 2800. I'll clean All oil passages
and re time the engine. Hell, I might as well rebuild the engine then. It will be worth it to do so....In my opinion.
So after extensive investigating and trial and error, Im convinced that it is true that you must use a Motorcrap oil filter for all oil changes. From what Ive read, aftermarket oil filters can release particals or fibers from the filter itself that will clog the poorly engineered oil passages that feed and control the VCT system. Its crazy to think that a truck like the mighty *cough* F150/F250 can be taken down by particles and fibers. I bet Cummins cant be brought down by fibers.
Well Im just posting this so there is more information out there for people having the same problem, in hopes that it will save them some money and much valuable hair.
Im only 29 and after working on this truck with Cam Phasers, VCT Solenoids and Flux Capacitors I now consider my self an old school mechanic. Because this stuff is great in theory but hell when it s#!ts the bed.
Ill keep ya posted after the tear down and big clean up.
Great thread, Im having the exact same problems you are having except that my code is p0011 and the truck will smooth out after a bit of a drive. That leads me to believe its the oil flow to the VCT system thats clogged.
This is after replacing the Cam Phasers, VCT Solenoid, Spark Plugs and Cam Position Sensors.
The actual problem is that because the VCT system is not working properly ( at bank 1) the timing will over advance and the PCM will detect the over advanced cam, At this point the PCM will shut down bank 1 Im guessing until the restricted oil preasure builds enough for the VCT Solenoid to work properly and control the Cam Phasers. The result is that the truck will then miss, shake and hesitate VERY BAD between 1000-2000 rpms eventually smoothing out after driving down the road a while . *Results my vary... Ford service department will take all your money, scratch their heads, take more of your money and eventually say " I dont know!"
Ive done all my own work, but have had the truck in the FSD for diagnostics with much regret.
As of now Ive decided to drive the truck in Limp Mode (cam sensors unplugged) until I have time to tear down the entire top end and clean EVERYTHING out. The truck runs fine without the Cam Sensors plugged in, but im keeping the RPM's under 2800. I'll clean All oil passages
and re time the engine. Hell, I might as well rebuild the engine then. It will be worth it to do so....In my opinion.
So after extensive investigating and trial and error, Im convinced that it is true that you must use a Motorcrap oil filter for all oil changes. From what Ive read, aftermarket oil filters can release particals or fibers from the filter itself that will clog the poorly engineered oil passages that feed and control the VCT system. Its crazy to think that a truck like the mighty *cough* F150/F250 can be taken down by particles and fibers. I bet Cummins cant be brought down by fibers.
Well Im just posting this so there is more information out there for people having the same problem, in hopes that it will save them some money and much valuable hair.
Im only 29 and after working on this truck with Cam Phasers, VCT Solenoids and Flux Capacitors I now consider my self an old school mechanic. Because this stuff is great in theory but hell when it s#!ts the bed.
Ill keep ya posted after the tear down and big clean up.
Last edited by A1Asportbike; 02-05-2010 at 11:41 PM.
06-08-2010, 10:21 PM
#27
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Me too
wdbarnhill,
great thread, im having the exact same problems you are having except that my code is p0011 and the truck will smooth out after a bit of a drive. That leads me to believe its the oil flow to the vct system thats clogged.
This is after replacing the cam phasers, vct solenoid, spark plugs and cam position sensors.
The actual problem is that because the vct system is not working properly ( at bank 1) the timing will over advance and the pcm will detect the over advanced cam, at this point the pcm will shut down bank 1 im guessing until the restricted oil preasure builds enough for the vct solenoid to work properly and control the cam phasers. The result is that the truck will then miss, shake and hesitate very bad between 1000-2000 rpms eventually smoothing out after driving down the road a while . *results my vary... Ford service department will take all your money, scratch their heads, take more of your money and eventually say " i dont know!"
ive done all my own work, but have had the truck in the fsd for diagnostics with much regret.
As of now ive decided to drive the truck in limp mode (cam sensors unplugged) until i have time to tear down the entire top end and clean everything out. The truck runs fine without the cam sensors plugged in, but im keeping the rpm's under 2800. I'll clean all oil passages
and re time the engine. Hell, i might as well rebuild the engine then. It will be worth it to do so....in my opinion.
So after extensive investigating and trial and error, im convinced that it is true that you must use a motorcrap oil filter for all oil changes. From what ive read, aftermarket oil filters can release particals or fibers from the filter itself that will clog the poorly engineered oil passages that feed and control the vct system. Its crazy to think that a truck like the mighty *cough* f150/f250 can be taken down by particles and fibers. I bet cummins cant be brought down by fibers.
Well im just posting this so there is more information out there for people having the same problem, in hopes that it will save them some money and much valuable hair.
Im only 29 and after working on this truck with cam phasers, vct solenoids and flux capacitors i now consider my self an old school mechanic. Because this stuff is great in theory but hell when it s#!ts the bed.
Ill keep ya posted after the tear down and big clean up.
great thread, im having the exact same problems you are having except that my code is p0011 and the truck will smooth out after a bit of a drive. That leads me to believe its the oil flow to the vct system thats clogged.
This is after replacing the cam phasers, vct solenoid, spark plugs and cam position sensors.
The actual problem is that because the vct system is not working properly ( at bank 1) the timing will over advance and the pcm will detect the over advanced cam, at this point the pcm will shut down bank 1 im guessing until the restricted oil preasure builds enough for the vct solenoid to work properly and control the cam phasers. The result is that the truck will then miss, shake and hesitate very bad between 1000-2000 rpms eventually smoothing out after driving down the road a while . *results my vary... Ford service department will take all your money, scratch their heads, take more of your money and eventually say " i dont know!"
ive done all my own work, but have had the truck in the fsd for diagnostics with much regret.
As of now ive decided to drive the truck in limp mode (cam sensors unplugged) until i have time to tear down the entire top end and clean everything out. The truck runs fine without the cam sensors plugged in, but im keeping the rpm's under 2800. I'll clean all oil passages
and re time the engine. Hell, i might as well rebuild the engine then. It will be worth it to do so....in my opinion.
So after extensive investigating and trial and error, im convinced that it is true that you must use a motorcrap oil filter for all oil changes. From what ive read, aftermarket oil filters can release particals or fibers from the filter itself that will clog the poorly engineered oil passages that feed and control the vct system. Its crazy to think that a truck like the mighty *cough* f150/f250 can be taken down by particles and fibers. I bet cummins cant be brought down by fibers.
Well im just posting this so there is more information out there for people having the same problem, in hopes that it will save them some money and much valuable hair.
Im only 29 and after working on this truck with cam phasers, vct solenoids and flux capacitors i now consider my self an old school mechanic. Because this stuff is great in theory but hell when it s#!ts the bed.
Ill keep ya posted after the tear down and big clean up.
09-22-2010, 04:54 PM
#28
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Hey A1Asportbike,
Did you ever get your truck running out of limp mode???? Mine is still going strong in lim mode...just checking for any updates on your situation. I still have not ofund any time or money to do anymore to my 04 screw.
Did you ever get your truck running out of limp mode???? Mine is still going strong in lim mode...just checking for any updates on your situation. I still have not ofund any time or money to do anymore to my 04 screw.
09-23-2010, 09:25 AM
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No I havent had the time yet I work a more than full time job plus I run my own company. I will probably get to it after December when I retire from my job.
I have been driving it since this post, Its still running but Im starting to see some weird hesitation when driving. Im at the point that Ill replace the engine if need be, just dont have the time to maintain it. I hate this engine though. I would like the truck if it were not for the engine problems....but since it is a truck, the engine is most important.
I promise I will post the results after I tear the thing down and rebuild it. Right now Im building a new shop so the truck get no attention from me. Hope it holds out that long. I bought it with intentions on keeping it for a long time.
I have been driving it since this post, Its still running but Im starting to see some weird hesitation when driving. Im at the point that Ill replace the engine if need be, just dont have the time to maintain it. I hate this engine though. I would like the truck if it were not for the engine problems....but since it is a truck, the engine is most important.
I promise I will post the results after I tear the thing down and rebuild it. Right now Im building a new shop so the truck get no attention from me. Hope it holds out that long. I bought it with intentions on keeping it for a long time.