For anyone who has an odometer light go out, but the rest of the cluster lights work, do not spend over 300 dollars to have the dealership fix it, if ur mechanically inclined. It's real simple to fix and instead of paying for "2.5" hours of work, do it urself. Not sure if there is a thread for our model trucks, search function is not working on the forum app, I'll be posting a how to in that section with pics and all. It's really simple. All you need is 5.5mm, 7mm, and an 8mm socket and ratchet, and various extensions.
I know someone else has made another thread on this but really doesn't clarify, at least in my own readings. So here is a write up on how I took apart the dash to access the instrument gauge backlights. Note this is only taking apart the steering wheel section of the dash.
First, disconnect the battery. Then locate the (2) 7mm screws above the pedals (see pic 1). After removing the screws grab the knee panel on both sides and pull, there are 2 retaining clips that hold the top part in. This should expose a metal "U" looking bracket with (4) 8mm screws in each corner (see pic 2). Remove the bracket, and lower the steering wheel as low as it can go. There should be (2) 7mm screws that are located to the right and left of the steering wheel that is still holding the rest of the dash in place (see pic 3 and 4). Before pulling on the dash, make sure you remove the back plastic piece between the instrument gauge glass and steering wheel, squeeze your hand in behind it and pull up (see pic 5). For those of you that have the movable pedals make sure to unplug the switch from dash, the retaining clip is on the left side, closest to the steering wheel (see pic 6). Once that step is complete the top part of the dash is held in place by (3) fasteners at the very top (see pic 7). Just lift up and remove the rest of the dash and the instrument cluster is exposed. The instrument cluster has two wire harnesses at the top that is easy to unplug, while pushing down on the black clip while simultaneously sliding the grey lever over the black clip and to the other side (see pic 8 ). This should pop the harnesses out of the ports at the top of the cluster. Then the instrument cluster is held in place by (4) black 7mm screws in the corners (see pic 9). Once all of the screws are removed, carefully remove the cluster from the dash and flip over to the back. There are torq screws that hold the protective plastic cover over the circuit boards, but you can use a 5.5 mm socket to remove them (see pic 10). There are 11 light bulbs that illuminate the gauges at night, but the odometer backlight is the bottom corner grey bulb (see pic 11), I believe bulb 26. Be very careful not to touch and dirty up the circuit board as these thing can scratch very easily. To remove bulb (see pic 12), turn the bulb counterclockwise and pull out. Do not be afraid to turn the bulb, as it does not come out easily. Then replace the bulb, and reassemble in the opposite order of disassembly. Hopefully this helps others and saves hundreds of dollars for members, "2.5 hour" job, my ***. I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle, if you follow this HOW TO. This a guide and probably not the approved method of FORD MOTOR CORP.
*****I'm having issues with my computer and uploading them to the thread, so please bear with me*****
Last edited by G Diablo; 03-18-2012 at 10:41 PM.
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Now the last of the pics 10,11, and 12. The order should be: pic 10 is the middle one, pic 11 is the last one, and pic 12 is the first one. I do not know why they are arranging themselves this way with the last 2 set of pics, I uploaded them in order and this is how they were placed. Again I hope this helps and this is my first HOW TO, so please be nice about how it is written and the setup of the pics. If you have any advice on this HOW TO, feel free to share, as I love learning new ways to accomplish tasks and I'm sure there are better ways to complete this project. Peace out BITCHES!!!!
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2011 Ford F-150 Lariat Limited, Line-X Bed Liner, Peragon Retractable Bed Cover, AFE Stage 2 Pro Dry S CAI, (2) 10" Kicker CVT Subs w/ Soundstream STL1.600D & LC2I Line Out Converter, EZ Down Tailgate Assist, Power Tailgate Lock, DMH Electric Exhaust Cutout, LED Mirror Mod,5 Star Tuned,OEM HIDS, Putco Fogs
I have a question for others, the order that is stated above the pics is if ur looking at them on a computer. For some weird reason, the pics show up in the correct order on my phone but not the computer, why is that? I'm no computer whiz and I'm perplexed. That's right, I'm thread jacking myself!