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When I did the frame on my Ranger, I just pressure-washed the poop out of it. That knocked the loose stuff off. Then slopped it on really heavily. Not a spot of rust on that frame for 3 harsh winters now... POR is awesome stuff. Definitely worth the money.
The front springs have a very high spring rate. I have a pair of spring compressors here, but the long jack screws in them started to bend noticeably from the stress and they still had not yet compressed the spring enough to disassemble it. I think I'm going to rent the strut compressor from O'Reillys and use it with the spring compressors that I have now to get er done.
When I did the frame on my Ranger, I just pressure-washed the poop out of it. That knocked the loose stuff off. Then slopped it on really heavily. Not a spot of rust on that frame for 3 harsh winters now... POR is awesome stuff. Definitely worth the money.
Ive heard only good things about the POR15. I got a 2005 from the auction that has been in new england (where im at) its whole life. The frame and underbody is really scaley and lots of visible rust. Want to attack it before it rusts through. There are so many products out there but the 15 seems to be the most widely used. Depending how much of a pain it is i will prob try to remove the bed to get better access to the rear frame.
Got the passenger side torn apart today. Easy as pie. There is a heat shield on the inside of the frame between the exhaust manifold and the frame behind the rear upper control arm bolt. It wraps around the bolt outside the nut, for some reason. This means you have to move it. There is a tab fitted in a slot in the frame, so without getting the exhaust out of the way, you cannot remove it entirely. A 10mm bolt secures it on the exhaust side. Once you removed the shock, you can reach over the shock tower with a 10mm box wrench and access to this bolt isn't too bad. Both upper control arm bolts came out easy.
The Moog lower ball joints are marked for which side goes inboard. I think this is just to align the grease pressure relief so that when you grease the joints, the excess comes out away from the brakes and makes it easier to wipe away.
This the lower ball joint removal tool 67045 with adapter from 67048 set up for installation of the ball joint. With the adapter, you can get the ball joint into the lower arm all in one shot. Much better!
Ran into a little trouble. The shock top bolt is frozen to the shock rod. I tried to cut it off, but I ran out of O2 for my torch before I got close to getting it hot enough. I'll take it down to the shop in the morning and have them take it apart. I'll have to buy a new upper mount now.
Ran into a little trouble. The shock top bolt is frozen to the shock rod. I tried to cut it off, but I ran out of O2 for my torch before I got close to getting it hot enough. I'll take it down to the shop in the morning and have them take it apart. I'll have to buy a new upper mount now.
Try some vise grips on the rod, then pin the vise grips on the ground and zip the nut off with an impact..
If that doesn't work then switch to a big pair on channel lock pliers on the shaft, squeeze them hard and impact the nut off..
Try some vise grips on the rod, then pin the vise grips on the ground and zip the nut off with an impact..
If that doesn't work then switch to a big pair on channel lock pliers on the shaft, squeeze them hard and impact the nut off..
Both of mine required these 2 methods..
No-go. The spring is compressed and there is a dust shield over the rod, so there is no way to get to it. I tried channel locks on the little bit of the rod that is still sticking above the nut and it just spins through them no matter how hard I try to lock them down. I should mention that I got the nut almost all the way off and then it froze to the rod, even after applying penetrating oil.
There's not enough of the rod between the nut and upper mount to get anything on either. I suppose I could try to compress the spring more to get into this space, but I'm a bit leery of that. I have 4 spring compressors on the spring now- those are some tough SOBs....
Nope, that won't work either. The design of the upper mount prevents you from moving it down on the rod no matter how much you compress the spring. You would think that someone could have designed a shock/strut that was locked internally so that the damned rod would not turn with the nut. It's like the thing was purposefully designed so that it has to be destroyed to take it apart. It's going to the shop tomorrow to get the shock rod cut in two.
10-04-2014, 08:32 PM
