new guy needs help please
#21
Member
Thread Starter
my serpentine belt squeeled the other morning when i cranked it, it was cold and damp that morning and it just squeeled for a quick second and it was gone? that have something to do with anything would it?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
Last edited by Cowboy_Caddillac; 05-02-2014 at 09:21 AM.
#22
Its super easy and you don't have to take the valve covers off..its just an electrical connector a seal (which you'll wanna replace) and a torx bolt I think? Or allen bolt..but you'll need a long t-handle to get at it and be careful not to drop anything in there.
#23
my serpentine belt squeeled the other morning when i cranked it, it was cold and damp that morning and it just squeeled for a quick second and it was gone? that have something to do with anything would it?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
#24
my serpentine belt squeeled the other morning when i cranked it, it was cold and damp that morning and it just squeeled for a quick second and it was gone? that have something to do with anything would it?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
and is there a way to get to my vct solenoids without taking the valve covers off? and if not, while the covers are off is there anyway to check the timing components?
I really really really doubt a timing issue caused that to go. i haven't change my solenoids yet but i've heard 07+ you have to take the valve covers off but i don't know that for certain.
Another thing about the tensioners is that most people that change them discover the seals are completely gone from them so using a thicker oil isn't going to help much if the seals are completely gone. I see the concept of the thicker oil but I feel like it would put more stress on other parts like the oil pump because it's a thicker, heavier oil, that is going to be harder to pump through the channels. I could be way off on that though.
again, i'm not saying tareed94 is wrong... just that, from what i've read, i don't agree. i certainly could be wrong.
#25
I really really really doubt a timing issue caused that to go. i haven't change my solenoids yet but i've heard 07+ you have to take the valve covers off but i don't know that for certain.
^^^ this is a good point about the thicker oil not fixing an issue with busted seals but to me it's cheap to try. I'm not trying to discount tareed94's opinion on running the recommended 5w-20 vs 5w-30 and that's a choice you're gonna have to make for your self. i'd just like to point out 5w-30 is only thicker at operating temperature compared to 5w-20... and at operating temperature both oils (while displaying viscosities of heavier weight oil at higher temperatures) are thinner than they are at cold... cold starts are arguably one of the most sensitive times for an engine so if both are thicker at start up (to provide greater protection at start up) and one thins out more at operating temperature, I don't personally put much stock in the argument that there are tighter tolerances which require 5w-20 and 5w-30 will wear things out quicker. the argument has been made that besides the origional solenoid design, the 5w-20 (along with too long between changes) are causing the timing/phaser issues.
again, i'm not saying tareed94 is wrong... just that, from what i've read, i don't agree. i certainly could be wrong.
#26
Off of fords website.
Silicone anti-drain back valves
Help prevent oil from draining out of the filter and engine when the engine is not running
Resist the aging effects that an engine’s high heat can cause
Silicone, available in many Motorcraft® oil filter anti-drain back valves, is superior to nitrile rubber, which can become brittle over time
Silicone anti-drain back valves
Help prevent oil from draining out of the filter and engine when the engine is not running
Resist the aging effects that an engine’s high heat can cause
Silicone, available in many Motorcraft® oil filter anti-drain back valves, is superior to nitrile rubber, which can become brittle over time
#27
Texas A&M Aggie
I'm not sure if there's one on here or not but here's one I came across http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/VCT_Solenoid.html
The 07's+ look different and from what I can see/have heard the valve covers must be pulled on the 07's+. 04-06 shouldn't have to remove valve covers.
On the oil debate the tolerances I mentioned are guesses as I'm not completely sure that it would cause anything to wear faster just seems theoretically like it could. I could be wrong.
The 07's+ look different and from what I can see/have heard the valve covers must be pulled on the 07's+. 04-06 shouldn't have to remove valve covers.
On the oil debate the tolerances I mentioned are guesses as I'm not completely sure that it would cause anything to wear faster just seems theoretically like it could. I could be wrong.
#28
I'm not sure if there's one on here or not but here's one I came across http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/VCT_Solenoid.html
The 07's+ look different and from what I can see/have heard the valve covers must be pulled on the 07's+. 04-06 shouldn't have to remove valve covers.
On the oil debate the tolerances I mentioned are guesses as I'm not completely sure that it would cause anything to wear faster just seems theoretically like it could. I could be wrong.
The 07's+ look different and from what I can see/have heard the valve covers must be pulled on the 07's+. 04-06 shouldn't have to remove valve covers.
On the oil debate the tolerances I mentioned are guesses as I'm not completely sure that it would cause anything to wear faster just seems theoretically like it could. I could be wrong.
I'm not really arguing with you, just presenting the other line of thinking... ford has obviously tested the 5.4l's with 5w-20 and it does what it needs to do. we all have to do what we're comfortable with.