uzikaduzi

I think if it's timing related i would take beast150's advice with replacing the solenoids with the newer design and running 5w-30 I think you could do both with premium oil for $200 ish and if it resolves the issue, great, if not, the new solenoids would be something you'd likely want to replace anyways.

Cowboy_Caddillac

Doesn't the 30w help protect your timing components though? And I'll check out YouTube, didn't think about that either.

tareed94

I've always been a fan of running the recommended weight of oil in my truck. Maybe that's old school of me but there's a reason they recommend that oil and if they determined the other worked better they would tell people to do that. I'm still leaning towards the manifold. I do wonder though if there's any kind of warranty on the new engine or if that's long gone. 35K miles is very early for phasers and solenoids to start going out again, assuming the solenoids were. I'm almost positive the phasers and timing components would've been replaced because it was likely a crate motor they dropped in there.

Cowboy_Caddillac

And I read that if the chain is slapping around then you should check out the timing chain tensioner.

uzikaduzi

I definitely could have some of this wrong so please feel free to correct me.

the new solenoids have a smaller hole (and a better check ball valve?) than the older style... this is good because your tensioners are held there by oil pressure so when you shut the motor off, if that solenoid doesn't work as well as it should/could, you have a moment where the tensioners back off the timing chain and need to adjust themselves from being backed off to the proper tension while the motor is running which wears them prematurely or breaks them.

now with the 5w-20 vs the 5w-30... seems like the consensus is 5w-20 was chosen for fuel economy because outside of North America, they recommend 5w-30 for these motors... 5w-30 is the same as 5w-20 at 40*c but at 100*c the 5w-30 thins less than the 5w-20.

Cowboy_Caddillac

Sounds good to me ha that all makes sense though so I need to look into the solenoids, and manifold for now?

tareed94

Another thing about the tensioners is that most people that change them discover the seals are completely gone from them so using a thicker oil isn't going to help much if the seals are completely gone. I see the concept of the thicker oil but I feel like it would put more stress on other parts like the oil pump because it's a thicker, heavier oil, that is going to be harder to pump through the channels. I could be way off on that though.

beast150

The old one (the one that came in the truck) is on the right....the new one or improved one is on the left....smaller hole equals more pressure the way I guess it....this does feed the chain tensioners and if its not getting enough oil to the tensioner causing slack in the chain thus causing cam phaser to either retard or advance timing when its not needed then resulting in over working the phaser leading to premature failure and loose chain making the dreaded "dieseling noise" its a very picky motor from what I've read and as far as the oil their have been people that have religiously changed their oil every 3k with a fomoco filter (which is specially designed with a no back drain valve or something like that to prevent dry cold starts) and have upwards of 170k miles with no problems...

beast150

Forgot to mention that too the seals on the tensioners too.

str8flush

Change your VCT solenoids ASAP. Its not that expensive and easy to do you can do it yourself in about 20min with a few tools. My truck had 95k on it when I bought it and my diesel noise was getting worse my truck had the same symptom as yours no diesel sound at all until the engine was at operating temperature then I got the jajajajaj so I swapped the solenoids because I didn't have the time and money to dig into the engine and after I did BAM NO MORE diesel and this needs to be done. Ford revised them for a reason. to hold more oil pressure in the the valve train I don't know if that's the official reason from Ford but my theory. If you read around on the forums many people have had success doing this others not so lucky maybe they let it go for to long or maybe its another issue that there hearing like a leaky exhaust manifold or loud injectors that these trucks are notorious for and its hard sometimes to tell them apart so ill try and help you. Mine also has a leaky exhaust manifold and loud injectors lol. The injectors I cant hear until I open my hood and faintly hear them when I stick my head by the wheel well its more of a tick and not jajajajaja diesel sound. My exhaust manifold leak sounds like most manifold leaks just sound like crap its loud when the engine is cold and gets quieter as it warms up because the metal its getting hot and expanding. and can hear it under heavy acceleration. but my truck is still quiet well after it warms up. even with my manifold leak and injectors its no louder then my buddy's stock 08 Tacoma with no issues or any other vehicle im next to. Make sure you buy the seals to as your stock ones can be a bear to get out I think I paid under 110 for oem seals and solenoids hope this helps good luck.