New Door Rattle Tips
07-10-2016, 09:27 AM
#1
New Door Rattle Tips
Hi, just wanted to post some findings on the F150 door rattle.
I tore apart the rear door panels and removed the panels behind the rear seats covering the rear door pillars in an effort to find this rattle.
It sounded like it was coming from the pillar itself but after remving the trim, there was nothing there (except the bolt plate held on w/ a rivet but it tightens up). My determination is that the latch at the bottom of the rear doors rattles and the sound permeates through the door to the pillar.
ALSO: It does however appear that there are multiple locations that can cause rattle. Aside from the rear door latches, which do rattle on both sides when closed, I did notice 2 other locations. First there is a thick plastic film under the door panel that does rattle and I fixed it by cutting it (which created an access hole) and then reattching it with sticky tire plugs, you know the ones you plug a hole in a tire from the outside, seems like the same type of material, tape did not seem to stick to the plastic. Also, under the plastic you will see the power window motor which is held together by a series of electrical tape wraps... anyhow this motor hits the frame behind it, I fixed it with a strip of velcro loop stuck between the motor and the frame.
OK, so back to the rattling latch, I am talking about the latch inside the door at the bottom of the small rear doors. I had already put the door back together and unfortunately did not look inside the door at the latch and I had the darn thing apart 5 times but I will look again when I replace the speakers. Anyhow, cannot believe I did not see this tip before but on the lower door jamb is the striker bar, this does not adjust however you CAN turn it around and it's like a new one, made a world of difference. Now to people's electrical tape wrap around the striker as well as new bumpers, these tips work, however just turning around the strikers did wonders. I tried the elctrical tape thing, chews it right up, looks like crp. My solution: take a bic ink pen, the pen shaft is too small but the pen's cap is the perfect size (the upper part of the cap) and takes the abuse pretty good unlike the electrical tape. Also greased everything. Still plan to replace the bumpers when I can get to the dealer but the rattles are gone. The rattles come from the door not closing tight enough.
I tore apart the rear door panels and removed the panels behind the rear seats covering the rear door pillars in an effort to find this rattle.
It sounded like it was coming from the pillar itself but after remving the trim, there was nothing there (except the bolt plate held on w/ a rivet but it tightens up). My determination is that the latch at the bottom of the rear doors rattles and the sound permeates through the door to the pillar.
ALSO: It does however appear that there are multiple locations that can cause rattle. Aside from the rear door latches, which do rattle on both sides when closed, I did notice 2 other locations. First there is a thick plastic film under the door panel that does rattle and I fixed it by cutting it (which created an access hole) and then reattching it with sticky tire plugs, you know the ones you plug a hole in a tire from the outside, seems like the same type of material, tape did not seem to stick to the plastic. Also, under the plastic you will see the power window motor which is held together by a series of electrical tape wraps... anyhow this motor hits the frame behind it, I fixed it with a strip of velcro loop stuck between the motor and the frame.
OK, so back to the rattling latch, I am talking about the latch inside the door at the bottom of the small rear doors. I had already put the door back together and unfortunately did not look inside the door at the latch and I had the darn thing apart 5 times but I will look again when I replace the speakers. Anyhow, cannot believe I did not see this tip before but on the lower door jamb is the striker bar, this does not adjust however you CAN turn it around and it's like a new one, made a world of difference. Now to people's electrical tape wrap around the striker as well as new bumpers, these tips work, however just turning around the strikers did wonders. I tried the elctrical tape thing, chews it right up, looks like crp. My solution: take a bic ink pen, the pen shaft is too small but the pen's cap is the perfect size (the upper part of the cap) and takes the abuse pretty good unlike the electrical tape. Also greased everything. Still plan to replace the bumpers when I can get to the dealer but the rattles are gone. The rattles come from the door not closing tight enough.
07-10-2016, 11:50 AM
#2
Senior Member
Here's a couple of things I did on both the scabs I've owned...Replaced the scab door bumpers with W705903-S300. Then used the old scab bumpers on the front doors. The new bumpers are way too thick for the front doors, but the old compressed bumpers from the rear work perfectly on the front. I also replaced the door strikers with 9L3Z1522008A. These are from the '09 up models and have a built in rubber bumper.
07-11-2016, 12:07 AM
#3
Here's a couple of things I did on both the scabs I've owned...Replaced the scab door bumpers with W705903-S300. Then used the old scab bumpers on the front doors. The new bumpers are way too thick for the front doors, but the old compressed bumpers from the rear work perfectly on the front. I also replaced the door strikers with 9L3Z1522008A. These are from the '09 up models and have a built in rubber bumper.
I had to modify my strikers so they were adjustable and I could move the doors inward to stop the rattle.
07-11-2016, 08:01 AM
#4
Senior Member
