Need Help column shifter stuck in park - looking for instructions
06-24-2014, 10:37 AM
#11
PS. why are the ford dealers trying to rip everyone off all the time?
PS. The local Ford dealer quoted me $550 to fix the problem and said they thought it was the solenoid and most of the labor was taking off the steering column. I had the steering wheel and clock spring off in less than 30 minutes and I am not a mechanic.
09-05-2016, 11:01 PM
#12
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On my truck 2013 f150 the kick plate on passenger side was pushed in, thus pulling a block of wires out of its place, I pushed it back in and it's fixed my problem, found it by accident as my kid pushed the kick plate just towards the rear of fuse panel
05-19-2017, 04:37 PM
#14
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Location for 04 f150 park bypass for column shift
on bottom of steering column cover there is a black plug remove the plug and push through the hole gently with a Phillips screw driver or similar round dowel about 1/4 inch in diameter this will push against a plunger allowing the locking pin to release the shift lever. this is only a quick fix.
12-19-2022, 03:33 PM
#16
Eureka! Discovered a $imple FIX!
Recognizing that the posts in this thread are from 5 to 9 years old, I still felt the need to pay-forward what I have learned from this thread, and also SHARE what worked for me.
KPWolf88's post led me to remove and open the brake light switch on my 2007 Ford F-150 XL. The shift interlock worked intermittently, but the brake lights always worked.
Following the posted description of examining the switch itself, I used a continuity tester to confirm that the contacts for the brake lights closed when the switch plunger is depressed.
I did the same for connectors designated as 5 & 6 on the switch body, and found that the contacts did NOT close for the interlock solenoid.
The contacts lift out easily, so taking #6, I bent the tip of it, ensuring not to damage the middle notch, ever so slightly toward contact #5, then retested.
Using the continuity tester as before, it showed that the circuit was closed, when the plunger was depressed, and open when the plunger was released.
Having reinstalled the brake light switch, the repair was immediately tested. The "click" in the steering column sounded as the brake pedal was depressed, and "lo, and behold!" the shift selector moved smoothly from PARK.
(To easily reinstall the switch, use the brake pedal arm to maintain tension on the post to the plunger, WITH the plastic collar in place, as demonstrated here:
)
This repair was done 05Dec2022, and it is still working(!) 19Dec2022.
I am pleased that I learned so much on this forum, that I was able to give this approach a shot, and I hope it is useful to someone else experiencing the same frustration.
Bottom Line: A replacement part was not required, but would probably provide a quicker resolution. It took me an hour, using hand tools, the majority of which time was spent getting in and out of a decent working position in the floor-well.
Merry Christmas! 🎄
Notes: Since the switch is able to be unplugged from the wiring harness, I did not disconnect the truck battery. Also, when examining the switch interior I noted carbon build-up on contacts 1 & 2, which go to the brake lights. The contacts lift out and are replaced easily, so I cleaned them off.
KPWolf88's post led me to remove and open the brake light switch on my 2007 Ford F-150 XL. The shift interlock worked intermittently, but the brake lights always worked.
Following the posted description of examining the switch itself, I used a continuity tester to confirm that the contacts for the brake lights closed when the switch plunger is depressed.
I did the same for connectors designated as 5 & 6 on the switch body, and found that the contacts did NOT close for the interlock solenoid.
The contacts lift out easily, so taking #6, I bent the tip of it, ensuring not to damage the middle notch, ever so slightly toward contact #5, then retested.
Using the continuity tester as before, it showed that the circuit was closed, when the plunger was depressed, and open when the plunger was released.
Having reinstalled the brake light switch, the repair was immediately tested. The "click" in the steering column sounded as the brake pedal was depressed, and "lo, and behold!" the shift selector moved smoothly from PARK.
(To easily reinstall the switch, use the brake pedal arm to maintain tension on the post to the plunger, WITH the plastic collar in place, as demonstrated here:
This repair was done 05Dec2022, and it is still working(!) 19Dec2022.
I am pleased that I learned so much on this forum, that I was able to give this approach a shot, and I hope it is useful to someone else experiencing the same frustration.
Bottom Line: A replacement part was not required, but would probably provide a quicker resolution. It took me an hour, using hand tools, the majority of which time was spent getting in and out of a decent working position in the floor-well.
Merry Christmas! 🎄
Notes: Since the switch is able to be unplugged from the wiring harness, I did not disconnect the truck battery. Also, when examining the switch interior I noted carbon build-up on contacts 1 & 2, which go to the brake lights. The contacts lift out and are replaced easily, so I cleaned them off.
I had this problem on my 2005 Ford F-150 with the column shifter. After replacing the solenoid using the above instructions, it didn't fix the problem.
SOLUTION: I would suggest replacing the brake light switch that is attached to the brake pedal. This fixed it instantly for me and was a $45 part. Troubleshooting took 10 minutes and required NO TOOLS. I took off the brake light switch, opened it up to show 2 metal connectors. The bottom connector had a burn mark on the case next to it. I used a small piece of wood to force both connections closed and put the part back in place to test. Tested perfectly. I hope this helps someone else. I would try this before replacing the solenoid. Oddly, I could not find posts that talk about the brake light switch affecting shifting out of park so tried the solenoid first. Even if your brake lights work like mine did, check this part.
SOLUTION: I would suggest replacing the brake light switch that is attached to the brake pedal. This fixed it instantly for me and was a $45 part. Troubleshooting took 10 minutes and required NO TOOLS. I took off the brake light switch, opened it up to show 2 metal connectors. The bottom connector had a burn mark on the case next to it. I used a small piece of wood to force both connections closed and put the part back in place to test. Tested perfectly. I hope this helps someone else. I would try this before replacing the solenoid. Oddly, I could not find posts that talk about the brake light switch affecting shifting out of park so tried the solenoid first. Even if your brake lights work like mine did, check this part.
Last edited by 2007F-150XL; 12-29-2022 at 07:31 PM.