red05f15

Hello,
I have a 2005 F150, I am having problems with my radio not working.
Earlier today I was hooking up a different amp for my subs and while doing that, my power wire touched either my ground or my remote wire. As soon as it did, my radio stopped working. I checked the fuses and from what I can gather, they are not blown. I have power on my yellow wire going to my radio but no power on my 12v (red wire). I also go a different radio to make sure it wasn't just my radio, it makes noise as soon as wires are connected and it illuminates but then 2 seconds later nothing. What could be my problem?


One more question, my battery died and now my airbag light is staying on, why is that happening and how can I fix it?


Thanks in advance for any help!

vintageman

Are you talking about he center light above the radio for passenger airbag? if so, do you have anything sitting on the passenger seat, there is a safety function that turns the light on and disables the airbag if someone or something is placed on the seat that is not really that heavy, such as a child, to prevent the airbag from injuring that person. As far as the radio, do you get the same symptoms with the amp disconnected?

red05f15

The airbag light went off this morning. So im just going to keep an eye on that. As far as i know the amp isnt getting any power either because it hasnt came on either

homer

It sounds like you had the power on to the deck while you were switching the amp? There's a big risk to doing that, if you've grounded your remote wire you may have damaged your deck. The remote wire in the decks are sometimes transistor-based or similar with low current designs so it can be risky if that dead shorts. Hopefully not though .

If you had dead shorted your power cable (guessing direct to battery) to ground, you probably would have seen lots of sparks or maybe blown the fuse at the battery (assuming you have one - and should if wired this way).

I would re-check these fuses: F1 (accessory), F102 (accessory delay), F31 (battery - memory) first. Sometimes it's a hairline blow though too so you don't see it (I've had this happen - test the fuse with an ohmmeter). I could see the hairline break, my friend couldn't on his ATV. Also, is there an inline fuse to the deck on the deck connector? I'm assuming if there is, you've checked that but just pointing it out.

At this point, I'm assuming you have an aftermarket connector from the factory radio harness so you didn't have to cut your factory wiring (much easier) as you're mentioning your wire colors are red and yellow? If you shorted the remote power wire and the deck was on, hopefully it didn't damage the deck. You're saying you're not getting +12V at your red accessory wire so I'm convinced it might still be a fuse somewhere. You can test by connecting the yellow and red (on the deck side) together and connect it to the yellow wire on your harness (it sounds like you have the aftermarket connector to connect to factory wiring) as you have +12V on the vehicle side on the yellow wire. Don't hook the red + yellow on the vehicle side together or you'll be joining two circuits (which might be ok for testing, but might pop another fuse). If the deck comes on, you definitely have no accessory power and let out a sigh of relief that you didn't cook your deck.


The airbag light, Do you mean in the dash (speedometer area?)? If you don't plug the "Passenger Airbag Disabled" light connector back in on the bezel where the radio sits, it'll turn that airbag light on (I've found out many times while working on my radio and forgetting to plug it back in). I usually have to unplug it to work on the radio to get the bezel out of the way but in doing so, it'll trigger the main airbag light.

red05f15

I have a fuse on my power wire for my amp. I think it did hit my remote wire because the radio instantly went off. I changed the acc fuse, the radio start fuse and radio power fuse and still no power. I hooked the red and yellow on the headunit side and put them on the yellow wire and still nothing. This is all done on a brand new headunit. Are the fuses mentioned the same ones i changed?

homer

When you hooked the red + yellow on the headunit side and to the yellow on your truck, you're 100% sure you're getting 12V on the truck side? Also the grounding is good on the deck still? Put your negative probe on the deck's metal casing, put the positive at the red + yellow join. I'm assuming you're using a voltmeter? Try the same combination, red + yellow on deck side, to red on truck side. I'm assuming the key was on each test ?

What I meant though too is, some aftermarket decks have a fuse on the yellow or red wire... usually in a black shell or similar. Should be close to where the connector goes into the deck.


If another deck only came on for a few seconds, it's still sounding like an issue with the accessory line to me.


The fuse for your amp, I'm assuming that's under the hood? It should be entirely unrelated as it's only powering your amp.

red05f15

Im only getting power on the yellow (memory) wire on the truck side. Ok, so i hooked to a known good ground, and hooked yellow and red and then put them on the memory wire and it comes on and stays on.

red05f15

Ok, so i hooked to a good known ground, and put the red and yellow deck side together and hooked to yellow and it worked but if i put yellow to yellow and red to red it doesnt work

homer

Perfect! So your deck is good and we've eliminated that. It's something related to accessory power. Hook the wires back up the way they should be, red - red, yellow - yellow, black - black.


F1 controls your wipers and instrument cluster, do your wipers work? If they don't fuse 1 is dead, if they do, we need to keep looking lol.


You've definitely checked those fuses on the passenger side? I've attached a picture. This is sounding like you just blew the fuse to me.

homer

Also, if you have to, take F1 and swap it with F2 temporarily. Sometimes you can't see they've blown very easily at all. If it fixes it, swap them back then get a new fuse as you'll have no brake lights or signals with F2 out/blown.