08awdlimited

I have a 2008 F150 all-wheel-drive limited 5.4 L. This truck has ran perfect until I did the new plug and coil swap. It's the third set of plugs sp515 and second set of coils the truck ran flawless until after I installed the new plugs and coils and as soon as I turned the key BAM!!!!! Miss fires engine shaking idle is crazy piping noise every now and then . It ran perfect before the change I regret doing it and now I have terrible problems so I hopped it 15 Miles because I didn't have a code reader and cylinder one ,cylinder four ,cylinder five showed misfires along with a omissions code I can't remember it died at every stop. So I rented a code reader and came home switched stuff around broke three coil clips but only one is loose and slide ups which I reset and now I have only cylinder two intermittent short code but still shakes and bogs and bucks . So I get on the highway after firing it up when it's cold accelerated and it bogged shook vibrated it's all I can do to get it up to 65 once it hits 45 and locks it's feels like it shakes so bad and vibrate so bad and bog so bad that the wheels are going to fall off but it seems like the engineis going to explode. After I got home I could smell burnt smell like plastic or something and then I heard it clicking from the heat which I've never heard it before after it was shut off but it seemed warmer than it normally runs even though the gauge was in the middle It literally takes 20 seconds to get to 60 and engine you can hear roaring as it shaking the engine is louder and it bogs the tach can be at 4 grand and it's creeping in speed and moving very slowing accelerating . Listening from the exhaust would seem to even hotter almost burned my face which is a unnormal I could hear that miss every now and then but the idle seemed fine sounded normal sometimes but the engine is like completely different story there are no clanks or metal on metal sounds no knocking besides the normal injector sound and phaser sounds. Two days ago I pulled a stock trailer with three horses running 75 and it barely kickdown now I can't even drive it I have some freeze-frame's I do not know how to read please help if I can't post them I can email them or text them or something I need help please thank you

08awdlimited

08awdlimited

Think I might of joined the wrong forum 85 views and not one suggestion am I missing something ?

Martian

85 views isn't very many. Give it a bit more time. Besides, you posted late last night when the forum isn't very active, and today has barely started.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

How many miles on this motor ? why 3 sets of plugs and COP's ? what brand COP's did you install ? were the Cats glowing red after your drive ?

nrivera04

Have you tried moving the coil to see if the code follows? Swap #2 to the drivers side and clear the code. May help pinpoint the problem.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Give it time, you will get answers faster here than any other F150 site.....if its that urgent, go to a shop ASAP.

Also the amazingly long run on sentences made your first post hard to read.

When one does a plug and coil swap and there are issues right after, that werent there before, all connections must be checked again. I assume you had the battery disconnected to help prevent damage to the pcm?

08awdlimited

I apologize for the long sentence I tried three times to write a summary but it keep timing out so that's why some info is left out.
The coils are motorcraft and the reason why it's on the third set of plugs are because it has 216000 miles mainly highway I usually put around 1100 a week on this truck I already replaced hubs all suspension parts etc ..


Yes I always unplug the negative wire before I service anything or when I pull the pcm off the firewall. I have swapped coils around even put the old plug and new plugs around as of right now it is only coding the short / misfire for the # 2 which with the clip broke and now the orange rubber seal is out its so loose even when you tie it down it's still causing it to miss i assume I am going to order new connectors tomorrow .

I pulled the Tb and upper intake horn cleaned the maf I also pulled the fuel rail ohm the injectors tested for a stuck open and cleaned them the best I could then reinstalled everything

When I fired it up it actually idle well for 20 plus seconds couldn't feel the entire truck shake engine sounded normal for atleast 10 seconds so I was like well maybe it didn't jump time after I revved it many times trying to get it to throw more codes all it threw was codes I was hitting limiter and tps basically I was actually doing anything I could to get it to throw more .

Only one cylinder claimed to miss fire but once after the twenty seconds or longer you could tell another was dropping in and out randomly note I still have two more broke connectors to the coil but they are tight and don't slide without force

It would shutter until around 1600 rpm then smooth out you could tell it sounded different and it climbed slower on the tach it does feel like the cats are gone but would that make it misfire ? Or caus others to random? I can take a video of anything of need be

joe mcmillan

With all of the misfires the cat(s) may now be damaged.
You mentioned excess heat from the exhaust.
When you run the truck more, take a look at the cats.
If you have an infrared thermometer, may be meaningful to read temps front and rear of each cat. Compare temps of one to the other if there are 2. If you are able to drive the truck, take a quick look at the cats for glow and or shoot temps again.
Would expect that the original issue is with the COP's.

08awdlimited

Ok I cleared the codes put a different cop on number 2 tied it down until I can get the new connector and let it idle and revved it some to get it warm I still feel unsafe to put on the road because I have a highway that is uphill and I'm afraid to pull out there it's like suicide hill for cars no joke . Anyway I drove it around my pasture trying to get it to throw codes still shaking but it's more bearable didn't die this time but still hear a miss that's it's not picking up yet but the code reader was saying no power train dtc but it was saying cats in the red o2s in the red Evap in the red and "htr" in the red which I think is what a heated O2 sensor?

I now can smell a tad bit of eggs but I am still not sure if it's because it's been misfiring lately and destroying the cats or they are already gone I haven't got a lean code or rich code I figure but not sure if it jumped time wouldn't realize the air and exhaust and throw a lean code ?

I just changed the struts and shocks all brakes and rotors with ceramic ,ball joints ,upper control arms , lower control arms , Hub bearings, and inner and outer Tie rods so I have a few grand already invested in just the drive ability so I am going to have to wait until the end of the month to get the cats looked at changed before I can finish the rest of the problems