F150frustrated

Guys:
I'm new to posting but have used advice from here many times in the past. I have an 06 150 4x4 with 5.4L Triton V8 w/ auto transmission with approx 75K miles. A few weeks ago I had a total melt down where by the truck started shuttering when running approx. 25 mph and nearly died. I limped it over to a parking lot and it seemed to be running on 4 cylinders. I took it to my nearby service guy and they ran diagnostics. Found cylinder 5 misfire through coding. They thought I should flush fuel system, change filters, and change plugs. When changing they found a bad coil pack so I went ahead and had them all changed out at once. They reported engine running better but still missing. Took it to local Ford dealer service, they looked at it but said they noticed sludge!!!! and would only quote new engine. Sludge!!! Now I am not a 100% totally when it comes to maintenance but I don't miss changes by more than 1500 miles and I don't use cheapest brand. Typically valvoline except once when, at the advice of friend, I used an additive from Lucas Oil. I scoped the inside of the valve covers and can see evidence of a light tan on parts but all else indicates clean! The Service manager told me he could not believe my engine could be that bad off but his owner policy was to refuse to tear down engines with evidence of sludge. He suggested my problem may be with drive side Cat. So I took it to Midas and they check both but found no problems. I've done some test driving and for the most part with normal driving truck seems fine with a slight lope at idle and some rattling noise when in gear but stopped (only hear it when near a wall so sound reflects). However, when need to past or really accelerate from say 20 MPH, RPM's increase but there is some missing and truck seems to act like the clutch is slipping (A/C seems to cool less then as well). Engine light starts flashing until I bring RPM to moderate level and then quits. I have checked codes again and indicating cylinder 5 & 6 misfires and also multiple misfires. I don't have any real mechanic friends in this town and could definitely use advice as I am at wits end. Please help.

Could this be knocking sensor?

Also, anyone have any advise about using Midas Generic Cat in lieu of OEM versions?

Just to add, Midas used a pressure and heat differential method to check Cats. I don't smell rotten eggs either.

Turkey Hunter

Sounds like a clogged cat to me. How did they check to see if they were clogged or not? And how can the ford dealer see sludhe without atleast taking the valve cover off? I would also swap the injectors around and see if the problems switch to a different cylinder. Make sure the coils are seated good and that the wires are in good shape.

kevhead75

First I would find a new dealer. IT definitely wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion especially if they are telling you to buy a new engine. I would try changing plugs. If you haven't done it then your over due since Ford recommends 60k intervals. It could be since you had a bad coil that the plug is now fouled and can't fire properly. The other thing you could do is switch #5 & 6 Coils with other cylinders to confirm that it isn't the coil. They are known to be bad out of the box. I would start there and see what happens.

F150frustrated

Guys: Thanks for replying. As I tested vehicle today it got much worse but I think I isolated the severe vibration to a bad connection a fuel injector. However, engine still lopes and when I try to accelerate at about 3200 RPM and 45 MPH engine starts missing and gives a loud exhaust rumble like its being stopped up. I played with the coils by quickly & separately pulling each plug slightly off coil while running and each one I pulled caused the engine to run considerably worse. Same result. Does this mean my coil packs and injectors or good or could they still be bad? Could CAT be gone? Any recommendation about generic brand CAT?

BTW: forgot to mention in original post but Plugs have less than 6K on them.

BolletuH

It would help to know if the truck is still throwing codes... I'm not gonna tell you check this or that, or my problem was this so check that. I don't give educated guesses just simple logic through evidence. I see that you did a power balance test, and if there was a noticeable change in the idle then that means the cylinder is GOOD. If a cylinder was misfiring then the idle wouldn't change if missing the spark.

F150frustrated

Okay. Thanks for responding. Right now, I only get a flashing light if I really try to quickly accelerate but know codes. If I continue with flashing light it will become solid and I get PO300-Multiple Misfires; PO305-Cyl. 5 Misfire; PO306-Cyl. 6 Misfire; and I did pull a PO171 on Sunday - Fuel Trim Bank One condition.

kevhead75

What kind of plugs did you use? I would still swap COPS 5 & 6 with other cylinders and see if the misfire follows the COPs.

Turkey Hunter

[QUOTE=BolletuH;873784]It would help to know if the truck is still throwing codes... I'm not gonna tell you check this or that, or my problem was this so check that. I don't give educated guesses just simple logic through evidence. I see that you did a power balance test, and if there was a noticeable change in the idle then that means the cylinder is GOOD. If a cylinder was misfiring then the idle wouldn't change if missing the spark.[/o

It could still be missfiring at higher RPMs. Swap the coils and see if that works. I still think its a clogged cat though. That would explain for the multiple missfires.

BolletuH

Hmm that PO171 Code brings up an interesting point. This means that bank is actually running lean which means more air than fuel is being put in the cylinder. This will cause a misfire if that occurs, and I also remember you mentioning that you considered the possibility of a fuel injector being the issue. I would use this EVIDENCE to check the fuel delivery system including the injector, filter, the fuel injector controllers, and the fuel rail itself. I'm thinking carbon deposits have built up overtime on these parts and it prevents the injectors from operating at their full efficiency. It also leads me to them because you only say it happens when you accelerate hard and quickly (that's what she said), and carbon deposits would keep the maximum amount of fuel possible to enter into the cylinder. This is just my suggestion I'm sure there are plenty more possibilities but just remember what does a cylinder need to work. Spark, fuel, and compression it's as simple as that.

07harleyD

Keep us updated F150frustrated, I'm have a similar issue with my P.O.S truck right now, I keep getting cyl 5 misfire code, I was getting a misfire on 4 and 5 so I replaced the plugs and put 2 new coils on 4 and 5. Now I'm only getting cyl 5 misfire and i'm after trying everything, I'm ready to have a bon fire. I have a leaking exhaust manifold on the passeneger side as well.