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My budget efan install ($122 US all in)

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Old 06-11-2015, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Newfiedan
No it is temperature controlled only when you drive forward it kicks out once it cools just like old vehicles.
So, the temp sensor signal is used to deactivate the electric clutch...
Old 06-11-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bucko
So, the temp sensor signal is used to deactivate the electric clutch...
Yes temp sensor switches have a tolerance. They engage at say 185 degrees, then disengage at say 170 or 175 degrees. Usually off is a bit lower than on. With a 2 temp sensor, it turns 1 leg ON at a lower setting say 185 degrees, then turns another or separate leg ON at say 205 degrees. Then turns the other leg Off at 195 maybe and the first off at 175 it really depends on the sensor. Is that about a s clear as mud?
Old 06-11-2015, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dhonnoll
Yes temp sensor switches have a tolerance. They engage at say 185 degrees, then disengage at say 170 or 175 degrees. Usually off is a bit lower than on. With a 2 temp sensor, it turns 1 leg ON at a lower setting say 185 degrees, then turns another or separate leg ON at say 205 degrees. Then turns the other leg Off at 195 maybe and the first off at 175 it really depends on the sensor. Is that about a s clear as mud?
Easier then what Ford did with the Rangers! They had TWO; one was a temp SENDER, the other was a temp SENSOR. The temp sender (single wire) was for the cluster gauge (variable resistance), and the temp sensor (two wire) was for the PCM/ECU.
Old 06-15-2015, 12:16 AM
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Old 06-15-2015, 01:35 AM
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You are going to want to reconfigure your relay bank to kill low speed output trigger when the high speed relay is activated-having both low and high speed triggered will shorten the lifespan of that fan motor. The Volvo dual speed relay will handle the 2-speed Motorcraft fans-the BMW dual temp switch is a good one-I also incorporate them as well-the switch thread is 14mm x 1.5 so you may need an adapter to thread it in.
Old 06-15-2015, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gmachinz
You are going to want to reconfigure your relay bank to kill low speed output trigger when the high speed relay is activated-having both low and high speed triggered will shorten the lifespan of that fan motor. The Volvo dual speed relay will handle the 2-speed Motorcraft fans-the BMW dual temp switch is a good one-I also incorporate them as well-the switch thread is 14mm x 1.5 so you may need an adapter to thread it in.
Steal a 2 speed fan controller out of a Volvo or get one on e-bay. That is supposed to automatically kill low speed and turn high speed on and it wires up about like a relay just you have speed 1 input speed 1 input and speed 1 output speed 2 output and THEY ARE MARKED. I stole one out of a bone yard. And for the "purist" technically Volvo is or was Ford owned.
Old 06-15-2015, 03:33 PM
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So, it's back to using a controller!
Old 06-15-2015, 11:51 PM
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Which direction do you have to turn that clutch fan to remove it? Towards the steering wheel side or towards the bateria side.
Old 06-16-2015, 05:45 AM
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On the 5.4 and 4.6, its reverse threaded; if you are facing the front of the truck, turn the clutch bolt towards the drivers side to loosen it. You'll also need to keep the pulley from turning to break the clutch fan nut loose.
Old 06-16-2015, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Newfiedan
I have seen several efan setups on f150 forums and I though I would share mine with everyone so that they can save some cash and with a little time you can install your own setup if you have a local pick n pull or junkyard. What you will need:
1) a 95+ mercury grand marquis electric fan. ($40 bucks with harness)
2) 1 maxifuse holder with weather boot ($5)
3) 1 bussman bp/hhh mini fuse tap ($4)
4) 1 60 amp maxi fuse ($2)
5) Some 10 gauge wiring approx 10 - 15 feet ($5-10)
6) 2 temp shttps://www.f150forum.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=4witches (I used a simple hayden 3653 switches) ($51.53 delivered)
7) 14 gauge wiring came with the switches with lots to spare so not to worry about more wiring.
8) 8 1" long 1/4" bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts
9) 1/4" and 3/8" glue lined or double wall shrink tube, rosin core solder and a mini torch.
10) some 1/8" flat bar I used some scrap from another project for brackets.
11) 1 pack black electrical zip ties (8" or longer) ($10)
12) 3/8" loom approx 20' optional but I recommend it ($15)
Where did you get your 60 amp maxi-fuse and the thing to put it in?



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