nugget68

it just sounds like it's reved too high when it shifts, maybe I'm paranoid... the COP's are accel, the PO changed to them, if I buy a store brand would it make a difference?

tareed94

Nah. If you watch the video I posted you'll see that mine was shifting at the exact same point. It's normal. Changing your COP's won't affect your shift point, but it might clear the code. I'm assuming it's a misfire code?

nugget68

no tunes on my truck either, all stock, stock tires... ill try to make a video of the shifts. maybe I'm just being paranoid... p0356 is the misfire code, didn't have enough time yesterday evening when I finished with the cats to inspect the COP, had some stuff I had to do, so I'll try to check it out this weekend...

tareed94

"P0356 indicates that the CoP on Cylinder #6 is not creating a ground so its not operating at all. It's a problem with the wiring, or a catastrophical failure in the CoP. It has nothing to do with the spark plugs nor the injectors." Quoted from here: http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...l-problem.html

nugget68

OK guys, small update.. I fixed the p0356 code, the clip on the harness into the COP was broken, replaced that with one from a junk yard. as for the shifting issue, I was wrong when I said it was reving too high at 5k, looks like that's normal... I am having the misfires still at WOT. misfire in #3, so I switched the COP from #1 and #3, then got misfire in #1, so I thought I figured it out, replaced COP and now getting misfires in #1 and #3... I also went ahead and replaced all the plugs with motorcraft... I guess wiring?

nugget68

looking around the top of the engine I found this wire that has bare copper showing, looks like it goes straight in the intake, pic is showing driver's side... what is this wire?

F150Torqued

Crankcase ventilation air heater. The 5.4L does not use a PCV valve. The crankcase never has "positive" pressure, only negative pressure - if it's all sealed up like it's supposed to be. Filtered air is drawn from the passenger side of the Air-Box into the Bank1 valve cover, through the crankcase, out of the Bank2 VC and into that 'gizzmo' in your photo. When intake air temperature is below a certain temp, the PCM energizes a heating element wrapped around the tube on that 'gizzmo' that extends way down into the belly of the intake manifold to 'heat' the crankcase ventilation air.


Looks like your heater has spent lots of time heating.

nugget68

OK, I've checked everything, replaced plugs and a coil. I have read up a little on timing and I think, from what I've read, because of the cam position sensor codes, I'm out of time a tooth or two. I had my chains and guides done by a shade tree guy and he said hey put it back with out the phasers turning, but it didn't miss like this at WOT before either... is it possible for me to just pull the valve covers and reset the timing, or do I have to pull the whole front cover?

Martian

Hmmm. I think it's possible... there's a TDC mark on the front cover you can line the crank pulley notch up with, then looking at the cams, adjust them to the cross section specified on here somewhere. You can verify TDC by pulling spark plug #1 and looking inside to make sure it's up to the top.

EBC-150

The cams always turn a few degrees when doing the timing job. Some of the valves are under spring tension so when the chain tension is released, they rotate. Sounds like your guy didn't follow procedure and you may very well be out of time.
The only problem with not pulling the timing cover is that you won't be able to line the chain and sprocket marks up, since it is (assuming) out of time.