oneofakinder

2005 F150 5.4 Here's what happened and what I've done. The drivers side stopped oiling, the timing chain wore a hole in the valve cover, bent the cam phaser and broke the chain guides. So I ordered a new timing kit, water pump, cam gears with phasers, vvt solenoids for both sides, new valve cover. Made sure everything was installed perfect. Put it all together and it fired right up, and ran great! Then I installed new tie rod ends and took it up for an alignment, it died, no sputtering or anything just died. I decided to do a compression test, 1234 all have exactly 26psi, 5678 all have 155-160. I have never seen anything like this before, I have also pulled the valve cover back off and verified it is oiling and the valves are opening and closing, what have I missed? Sorry for the long read but I wanted everything out there.

redfishtd

Did you put a new oil pump in her . All those metal filings and plastic pieces are in the pan and other places . You realize the oil passages are small and the lash adjusters need oil to keep valve adjustment correct . Cams need oil for rollers and bearings.
Passenger side is 1234, what did you do on that side . Chains, phasors , guides?
Did you replace tensioners that are bad about blown seals . Vct valve bodies need to be cleaned as well as cam oiling holes . I would think you may have some bad lash adjusters or plugged oil ports in them . My chains ate some of the aluminum timing cover but wow to eat a hole in the steel valve cover and all those steel filings in the engine . She had to have jumped time .
But this bad compression on one side sounds to me like the cam timing is wrong . I'm not a wrench so I will let others wade in here . I could ask more questions like how many miles , did you use oem parts ? Did you use svares sticky info for timing . Oil pump failure video jasper engine.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...-sound-141266/
Finally did you rotate engine two revolutions by hand after timing job to insure no interference between pistons and valves .
Good luck with her .

07F150Lariat5.4

Sounds to me like it definitely jumped time. The compression tells the story. Hopefully you don't end up with bent valves.

oneofakinder

Thank you for replying. I replaced both phasers, the complete timing kit including guides, chains, tensioners with new seals, replaced both vct solenoids, spark plugs, even the crank trigger wheel. I did rotate the engine many many revolutions by hand because I was worried their might have been internal damage. Before I started I filled each cylinder with compressed air to make sure all the valves were sealing, and rotated the engine slowly by hand. I didn't replace the oil pump.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

All that and no pan drop or oil pump replacement?

oneofakinder

Unfortunately no

F150Torqued

With compression THAT low on bank1, I would think it would have to be off quiet a lot. More than just jumping a tooth or two. I wonder if one of the Phasers stuck at full retard. That would put it 30 'camshaft' degrees out - and there would be no valve contact. That likely would "keep one from starting. It would be enough to reduce its natural aspiration ability enough to knock the compression down that far - yet your phaser marks would still line up.


If that's the case, you might be able to see difference the in cam lobe positions by removing both valve covers & observing timing mark on crank pulley?


What do you other guys think?

07F150Lariat5.4

I have a feeling it probably did jump time. Especially for it to just shut off as the OP described. My guess would be it may have only jumped 2 to 3 teeth (or more), but it doesn't take much to cause piston/valve contact and that could be the reason for all cylinders being at just 26 PSI. I don't believe the phaser is able to adjust far enough to cause a no-run issue. But, I could be wrong.

I'm thinking that it didn't jump time enough to completely destroy the valves, but bend them enough to cause inadequate sealing. Just my guess.

redfishtd

You will need to see if the valves move when they should . But alas the timing cover has to come off to see the whole story . Me-- I would retime it if things look good .
Timing dot at 6 oclock, keyway at 11 oclock . Number one cly at TDC , thats radiator side of passenger side ,you can use a small wooden dowel to find tdc.
The phasor on the passenger side should end up with the colored links straddling the R, the drivers side should be straddling the L.
You can't try turning by hand to get to this perfect matchup because it takes 122 revs to get there .So take chains off when tdc 1 and dot correct point .
Me- I would lift both cams per book sequence a little each bolt . Then check no.1 at tdc . Get cams facing the correct way on no1 and number 5 per ford manual . Then as they are close to final position Torque them back down in sequence .
Then put chains back on properly keeping non-tensioner side tight . You may have to have a second set of hands for this.





Note it is easy to get mixed up-- remember passenger side = factory- right - bank 1, driver side is factory left- bank 2
Lets hope for no bent valves .

oneofakinder

This is the drivers side with the balancer at the TDC mark on the timing cover. I haven't taken the cover off yet. I did try to line the links back up and now I understand why I wasn't able to.