Looking for a start point on my 2004 Ford F150
#11
#13
Whew. Good. You'd be doing the job twice.
#14
Would the oil matter? I used quaker state. Should I have used Motorcraft?
Forgot to mention when I recorded the videos above I was getting a light white smoke with condensation dripping out the tailpipe
Edit:
I need to double check to make sure the filter is correct. I dont think its a motorcraft. I think they just gave me an "equivalent(Most likely purolator)" when I was at Advance. I just realized the motorcraft filter they call for isn't red.
Forgot to mention when I recorded the videos above I was getting a light white smoke with condensation dripping out the tailpipe
Edit:
I need to double check to make sure the filter is correct. I dont think its a motorcraft. I think they just gave me an "equivalent(Most likely purolator)" when I was at Advance. I just realized the motorcraft filter they call for isn't red.
Last edited by Herman Gilmore; 09-24-2016 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Needed to add detail
#15
Update:
Changed the filter to motorcraft(I changed it to a Purolator previously). Runs much smoother but still get the bad idle. It just doesn't do it as often. Still likely a phaser problem though. Here's the updated video:
Changed the filter to motorcraft(I changed it to a Purolator previously). Runs much smoother but still get the bad idle. It just doesn't do it as often. Still likely a phaser problem though. Here's the updated video:
#16
Did a VCT Solenoid test and it idled steady. Ran it for about 20-25 mins with is disconnected. Cut it off and reconnected it and once I started it back up it started idling bad at warm temperature. Not sure if this indicates a bad VCT Solenoid considering that they are basically brand new.
#17
When I was test driving it today, something different happened. My new battery was dead so I jumped it. When I drove it my battery warning light came on and off. Then eventually my abs light and park brake light came on. Shortly my dash gauges, headlights, interior lights, and radio were dead. I eventually lost power in the engine. Was it possible to blow a fuse while doing the vct solenoid disconnect test?
#18
Senior Member
Sounds like your alternator took a crap.
#19
Update. Finally got back to working on this thing. Between work and kid, I barely found timw til my vacation to get back at it. Alternator was bad btw. Opened her up to find a shattered guide on the passenger side. When I tried to position the intake lobes on the passenger side camshaft I ran into a problem:
I've been consulting Fordtechmakuloco on it and he gave me the following:
"Where is the upper guide for that side? What you can do in this situation with the chain still on is loosen the cam cap bolts until mid way so the cam is loose in the caps and really cannot actuate the valves anymore. Then remove the chains then you want to fully loosen the cam caps then proceed as shown in my video."
I kinda drew a blank as to what this meant because I wasn't sure about if the positioning of the lobes mattered about this point. When I asked about it, I got the following:
"At any point you can loosen the cam caps evenly part of the way to prevent valves from hitting
Once the cams are out you can proceed with removing all the timing components in any order as the valve can no longer be actuated nothing can dAmAge itself"
I'm still trying to wrap my head around it and seeing if anyone else had a different view on it to where I can better understand it. Would it be for just that side or both banks?
I've been consulting Fordtechmakuloco on it and he gave me the following:
"Where is the upper guide for that side? What you can do in this situation with the chain still on is loosen the cam cap bolts until mid way so the cam is loose in the caps and really cannot actuate the valves anymore. Then remove the chains then you want to fully loosen the cam caps then proceed as shown in my video."
I kinda drew a blank as to what this meant because I wasn't sure about if the positioning of the lobes mattered about this point. When I asked about it, I got the following:
"At any point you can loosen the cam caps evenly part of the way to prevent valves from hitting
Once the cams are out you can proceed with removing all the timing components in any order as the valve can no longer be actuated nothing can dAmAge itself"
I'm still trying to wrap my head around it and seeing if anyone else had a different view on it to where I can better understand it. Would it be for just that side or both banks?
#20
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Timing and cams
I set my timing up before removing anything, that way it is close to timing point . . The purpose of lifting cams is not to bend a valve when moving crankshaft . Once the chains are off, all sync is removed between cams /valves and pistons that are attached to crank .
If both cams are lifted then no valves are pushed down so no bending . So next you have to set cam lobes on both sides to this close point per book . No 1 cyl is set to tdc with timing dot at 6 oclock on crank gear .NO 1 is passenger front side towards radiator . Small wooden Dowel rod in no 1 will show you tdc. .
This is all done with spark plugs removed and battery disconnected . After alignment of these points chains may be put on correctly . If the passenger side cam phasor is showing R up drivers side will be L up . If not you are wrong .
This is a basic version of what you have to do . Read svares final fix several times , ford malukoco is good too . You must realize that there are several methods here . Lifting cams is to get around the $200 dollar valve compressor tool but you have to be careful making sure rollers stay on place .
If you don't get this timing in your head good then you may get in trouble .
If both cams are lifted then no valves are pushed down so no bending . So next you have to set cam lobes on both sides to this close point per book . No 1 cyl is set to tdc with timing dot at 6 oclock on crank gear .NO 1 is passenger front side towards radiator . Small wooden Dowel rod in no 1 will show you tdc. .
This is all done with spark plugs removed and battery disconnected . After alignment of these points chains may be put on correctly . If the passenger side cam phasor is showing R up drivers side will be L up . If not you are wrong .
This is a basic version of what you have to do . Read svares final fix several times , ford malukoco is good too . You must realize that there are several methods here . Lifting cams is to get around the $200 dollar valve compressor tool but you have to be careful making sure rollers stay on place .
If you don't get this timing in your head good then you may get in trouble .