lock outs or oem cam phasers
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
lock outs or oem cam phasers
really don't want to beat a dead horse more than I should with cam phasers, but what does everyone think I can decide between going with the livernois lock out kit to cure the noise or going with oem new phasers. either way I will also do the timing parts but I don't know what way to go. the lock outs are a little more expensive.
#2
Senior Member
From what I understand, if your phasers are already making noise, you need to change them as well even if you do install the lockouts. From my perspective, change the phasers with the updated version, change the timing components, check and if necessary change you lash adjusters and make sure that you vct solenoids are the updated version. Then do scheduled maintenance as required with the recommended oil.
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bill2014 (11-10-2014)
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
From what I understand, if your phasers are already making noise, you need to change them as well even if you do install the lockouts. From my perspective, change the phasers with the updated version, change the timing components, check and if necessary change you lash adjusters and make sure that you vct solenoids are the updated version. Then do scheduled maintenance as required with the recommended oil.
#4
Senior Member
OEM is the way to go. A lot of the aftermarket have had issues, I know that you don't want to do that job more than once, go with oem parts. Good luck, if you have any questions once you start, just ask. Also, page 1 of the "Final Guide to ..." in the stickies is worth reading prior to starting this task. Its not hard, just takes time. Remember to mark everything and take pictures, go slow, set your timing marks and cam lobes prior to disconnecting the chains and you will be fine.
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bill2014 (11-10-2014)
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bill2014 (11-11-2014)
#7
Senior Member
I put em on the amazon store card lol, its the entire FOMOCO oem kit straight from FORD, i owe alot but well worth it. 6 months to pay it off Comes with all the seals and gaskets, and the rest of things that you you will need.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also i bought these for my tune up, already had newish plugs, really woke my truck up, pretty decent price. They do what they should
Motorking Coil packs, lifetime warranty through amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And also, to save you a hell of alot of trouble, i would invest in a 10mm ratcheting wrench, a 18mm ratcheting wrench, and a 8mm one as well, You will need a 22mm as well eventually... Will save you ALOT OF TIME!!! Especially on the back 3 passenger side valve cover bolts that i had to reach through the fender well for!
Also will need a Power steering pulley puller, (Had a power steering bolt right above the high pressure line, be sure to get some threadlocker had to remove mine) a harmonic balancer puller, rent from oreillys or somewhere.
I went to lowes and got some 3/8-16 bolts to thread into the balancer to pull it with, they will bend slightly but they hang in there when you use them to reinstall, they last just long enough for the 102ft pounds i put on them putting it back on with a flat crowbar wedge in between holding the frame, can always get more if you don't trust them. Pretty much a one time deal. Then to get the balancer back on get a flat crowbar, tap it with a sledge hammer to get it back on track. Then use the bolt to pull it on
Also a trick for setting the timing. Use vice grips to hold the cams, Mark them with some nail paint. The chains have marked links, Use the single marked link for the cam phaser, and the 2 marked ones for the sprocket. Makes it easier to make sure its on the dot when your under there!
Another tip, do not pull the tabs off of the tensioners when you get them! Pull them when you are done installing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also i bought these for my tune up, already had newish plugs, really woke my truck up, pretty decent price. They do what they should
Motorking Coil packs, lifetime warranty through amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And also, to save you a hell of alot of trouble, i would invest in a 10mm ratcheting wrench, a 18mm ratcheting wrench, and a 8mm one as well, You will need a 22mm as well eventually... Will save you ALOT OF TIME!!! Especially on the back 3 passenger side valve cover bolts that i had to reach through the fender well for!
Also will need a Power steering pulley puller, (Had a power steering bolt right above the high pressure line, be sure to get some threadlocker had to remove mine) a harmonic balancer puller, rent from oreillys or somewhere.
I went to lowes and got some 3/8-16 bolts to thread into the balancer to pull it with, they will bend slightly but they hang in there when you use them to reinstall, they last just long enough for the 102ft pounds i put on them putting it back on with a flat crowbar wedge in between holding the frame, can always get more if you don't trust them. Pretty much a one time deal. Then to get the balancer back on get a flat crowbar, tap it with a sledge hammer to get it back on track. Then use the bolt to pull it on
Also a trick for setting the timing. Use vice grips to hold the cams, Mark them with some nail paint. The chains have marked links, Use the single marked link for the cam phaser, and the 2 marked ones for the sprocket. Makes it easier to make sure its on the dot when your under there!
Another tip, do not pull the tabs off of the tensioners when you get them! Pull them when you are done installing
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 11-11-2014 at 01:00 AM.
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bill2014 (11-11-2014)
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#8
I had all my timing components replaced last year and I went with the lock outs and had it dyno tuned and I kind of wish I stuck with the phasers. IMO it just depends on what kind of driving you do and if you're running bigger tires or towing anything. With the lock outs you lose quite a bit of your low end (no more getting thrown back in your seat when you get get on it from a stop) but you do get it all back in the top end. I'm running 35's and I felt the difference right away. Before I did the lock outs I avg around 12-12.5mpg around town. Now I get 10.5-11mpg. But cruising on the freeway with the cruise control set at 70mph I get between 16.5-17mpg where as before I got right around 15.5mpg. The main reason I wish I stayed with phasers is towing. I have a 7x12 open trailer that I use to haul my 4 wheeler and hunting gear on only a few times a year (maybe 1,100lbs + fully loaded bed) and you really miss the low end going up steep roads. There's one canyon I go up that's a very steep grade for 5-6 miles and the last mile to the summit I'll have the pedal almost to the floor trying to stay around 65mph with the rpms are around 4,000. When I do accelerate I'll get the rpms up to 4,500 and it doesn't want to upshift, when it does decide to upshift it drops the rpms below the power band and I'll start slowing down for a second then it down shifts again and back to 4k rpms lol. With the phasers I had no problem going up that canyon pulling my trailer. But besides going up steep inclines it still pulls a trailer with ease IMO. I have 3.73 gears and I'm hoping once I put some 4.56 gears in it'll help out enough so I'll be 100% happy with my decision going with the lock outs. I'm headed to Montana to do some more hunting this week so we'll see how it does pulling the trailer almost 400 miles..... haha
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bill2014 (11-11-2014)