Lisle spark plug tool worn?
#11
I remember reading from here or another forum. When the end threads get worn to take a dremmel or grinder and file it down to the next set.
I feel your pain i had 2 break on me and the worst was all the way in the firewall. Having a bunch of swivles and extensions is a must. I had to sit on top of the motor to have better leverage.
Make sure it gets good bite.
I feel your pain i had 2 break on me and the worst was all the way in the firewall. Having a bunch of swivles and extensions is a must. I had to sit on top of the motor to have better leverage.
Make sure it gets good bite.
Last edited by carl292; 09-08-2014 at 09:08 PM.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Well I reached the end removing these plugs. Last one left is #4 and I cannot get the broken piece out. Heading to the dealer on Monday and I'm sure they are going to pull the head. Does anybody have a ball park roundabout figure this may cost? Thanks fellas
#13
Senior Member
I would think they can remove the broken plug without pulling the head. Pulling a head on these engines is fairly labor intensive. Hope they don't have to go that route. Keep us updated and good luck!
#14
I used the lisle tool that was being passed around on this forum, when I got it, I was only able to extract 4 of the six that I broke before the threads stripped on the tool. Contacted lisle explained what happened, even stated that it was a used tool, and they sent me a new extractor for the cost of shipping! Fantastic company to work with. I would try contacting them again to see if they can help you out, maybe you will get to talk to someone else for sympathetic.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Thank you gentlemen. The porclein is so far into the head/cylinder that I had to grind down the aluminum sleeve just to attempt to pull it out one last time. My neighbor's friend who owns his own repair shop who now refuses to replace these plugs said that as a last ditch effort to screw a easy out into the broken piece and pull it out. I attempted it but didn't feel comfortable doing it. Thanks again guys for your time and assistance
#16
Junior Member
Thank you gentlemen. The porclein is so far into the head/cylinder that I had to grind down the aluminum sleeve just to attempt to pull it out one last time. My neighbor's friend who owns his own repair shop who now refuses to replace these plugs said that as a last ditch effort to screw a easy out into the broken piece and pull it out. I attempted it but didn't feel comfortable doing it. Thanks again guys for your time and assistance
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johnny_tucson (09-12-2014)
#17
Member
Thread Starter
I finally got my truck back yesterday. As I posted in this thread I broke 7 of 8 plugs and was only able to remove 6 of them specifically #4 i couldn't remove. Took it to a local Ford dealer and they needed to remove the head to remove the broken plug since I pushed it down so far. Head was removed and they found piston for #4 was cracked. Upon manually moving the crank found the wrist pin broke and the rod separated from the piston. Had some nicks in the cylinder wall and was able to be honed. Also found a valve seat was damaged and 2 valves (forgot which ones) were bent. Valve seat repaired and all 3 valves for #4 were replaced. Since the motor was torn apart I had the dealer replace both chains, tensioners, VCT solenoids, cam phasers and guides. Also the tech removed sludge from all 8 cylinders. Also found the torque converter was bad and it was replaced and upon start up the throttle body was throwing codes and it was replaced.
The repair bill was OUTRAGEOUS!!!!! However, since I'm active duty military all parts were 10% off. Also the dealer ate the cost of the machine shop to repair the valve seat and cost of the valves and installation. They also ate the cost of the throttle body and labor along with the labor to replace the timing components and the labor to remove the sludge from the passenger side pistons and removal of the head and cleaning of the driver side pistons. Even though I still had to pay A LOT of money for the repairs they did save me a little less than $1500.
I put on a little over 60 miles and it seems to run great so far! No more noise coming from the phasers. Its unbelievable how quiet the motor is now. The tech recommended that I take it easy for the 1st 100 miles to break in the new piston, rod and bearings.
The repair bill was OUTRAGEOUS!!!!! However, since I'm active duty military all parts were 10% off. Also the dealer ate the cost of the machine shop to repair the valve seat and cost of the valves and installation. They also ate the cost of the throttle body and labor along with the labor to replace the timing components and the labor to remove the sludge from the passenger side pistons and removal of the head and cleaning of the driver side pistons. Even though I still had to pay A LOT of money for the repairs they did save me a little less than $1500.
I put on a little over 60 miles and it seems to run great so far! No more noise coming from the phasers. Its unbelievable how quiet the motor is now. The tech recommended that I take it easy for the 1st 100 miles to break in the new piston, rod and bearings.
#18
Senior Member
For those that had the tool wear out, were you using some type of cutting fluid or oil on the treads? I think that would have helped extend the life of the treads. I only used mine one time to extract a broken plug but I had read that the tools treads wear out quickly so I put some oil on the treads the one time I used it.
#19
Senior Member
I finally got my truck back yesterday. As I posted in this thread I broke 7 of 8 plugs and was only able to remove 6 of them specifically #4 i couldn't remove. Took it to a local Ford dealer and they needed to remove the head to remove the broken plug since I pushed it down so far. Head was removed and they found piston for #4 was cracked. Upon manually moving the crank found the wrist pin broke and the rod separated from the piston. Had some nicks in the cylinder wall and was able to be honed. Also found a valve seat was damaged and 2 valves (forgot which ones) were bent. Valve seat repaired and all 3 valves for #4 were replaced. Since the motor was torn apart I had the dealer replace both chains, tensioners, VCT solenoids, cam phasers and guides. Also the tech removed sludge from all 8 cylinders. Also found the torque converter was bad and it was replaced and upon start up the throttle body was throwing codes and it was replaced.
The repair bill was OUTRAGEOUS!!!!! However, since I'm active duty military all parts were 10% off. Also the dealer ate the cost of the machine shop to repair the valve seat and cost of the valves and installation. They also ate the cost of the throttle body and labor along with the labor to replace the timing components and the labor to remove the sludge from the passenger side pistons and removal of the head and cleaning of the driver side pistons. Even though I still had to pay A LOT of money for the repairs they did save me a little less than $1500.
I put on a little over 60 miles and it seems to run great so far! No more noise coming from the phasers. Its unbelievable how quiet the motor is now. The tech recommended that I take it easy for the 1st 100 miles to break in the new piston, rod and bearings.
The repair bill was OUTRAGEOUS!!!!! However, since I'm active duty military all parts were 10% off. Also the dealer ate the cost of the machine shop to repair the valve seat and cost of the valves and installation. They also ate the cost of the throttle body and labor along with the labor to replace the timing components and the labor to remove the sludge from the passenger side pistons and removal of the head and cleaning of the driver side pistons. Even though I still had to pay A LOT of money for the repairs they did save me a little less than $1500.
I put on a little over 60 miles and it seems to run great so far! No more noise coming from the phasers. Its unbelievable how quiet the motor is now. The tech recommended that I take it easy for the 1st 100 miles to break in the new piston, rod and bearings.