Creaking noise on right turns
#1
Creaking noise on right turns
Hi all,
My 2007 F150 (5.4L V8, supercab, 6ft bed, RWD, 93,000mi) just starting making a strange sound when I make anything more than a gentle right turn.
Here's a video of the sound. Does anyone recognize this or have any suggestions on what I should check?
My 2007 F150 (5.4L V8, supercab, 6ft bed, RWD, 93,000mi) just starting making a strange sound when I make anything more than a gentle right turn.
Here's a video of the sound. Does anyone recognize this or have any suggestions on what I should check?
#2
For some additional information, a friend advised me to check if the brakes were worn or the rotors were warped.
I'm a machinist by day, so I broke out the dial test indicator. Rotors run true within .08mm/.003" and the pads each have 1/4"+ left on them, so we're good on that front.
After jacking it up I tried wiggling the tire around to see if there was any noticable slop anywhere. Nothing moved as far as I can tell and the wheel rotates freely; There was no noise or crunchiness to indicate a bad wheel bearing, though bearings can be deceptive based on my experience in a different context.
I'm a machinist by day, so I broke out the dial test indicator. Rotors run true within .08mm/.003" and the pads each have 1/4"+ left on them, so we're good on that front.
After jacking it up I tried wiggling the tire around to see if there was any noticable slop anywhere. Nothing moved as far as I can tell and the wheel rotates freely; There was no noise or crunchiness to indicate a bad wheel bearing, though bearings can be deceptive based on my experience in a different context.
#3
Alright, so I think I may have found the cause (or if not, something that should probably be replaced anyway.
The rubber(?) bushings on the bottom of the shock and on the control arm seem to be pretty chowdered. I can wiggle them around a bit with a pry bar, and I imagine they'd do much the same when loaded up in a turn.
What do you think? Probable cause or keep on lookin?
The rubber(?) bushings on the bottom of the shock and on the control arm seem to be pretty chowdered. I can wiggle them around a bit with a pry bar, and I imagine they'd do much the same when loaded up in a turn.
What do you think? Probable cause or keep on lookin?
#4
Had a friend come over to provide an external point of view. After checking more stuff, we've determined it's most likely the wheel bearing or maybe, maybe the brake caliper pins (but probably the bearing).
#5
Senior Member
That's a tough one. Typically a wheel bearing will give you the sound like a hive of bees following you.
If you tried moving each wheel 12 & 6 and 9 & 3 with no slop, it's probably nothing to do with it.
The bushings on the shock could possibly be the source, but I'd be inclined to check other suspension components; such as sway bar/end links, tie rod ends, ball joints etc.
If you tried moving each wheel 12 & 6 and 9 & 3 with no slop, it's probably nothing to do with it.
The bushings on the shock could possibly be the source, but I'd be inclined to check other suspension components; such as sway bar/end links, tie rod ends, ball joints etc.
#6
Senior Member
It sounded to me like it's something that was a cyclical noise, so I'd say it's something that rotates like a bearing or rotor or something in close contact with something that rotates. When shock/strut bushings get really hammered you will typically get a banging or this noise when going over bumps, not when in a steady turn like that.
Edit: is the noise any different whether you are on the brakes or not? Sometimes if something is slightly loose the noise will go away when on brakes vs not...
Edit: is the noise any different whether you are on the brakes or not? Sometimes if something is slightly loose the noise will go away when on brakes vs not...
Last edited by needsmoarturbo; 01-25-2021 at 10:10 AM.
#7
No difference if I'm on the brakes or just coasting.
I ordered a set of bearings, so I'll press those out and the new ones back in next weekend. Easy enough to do and even if that's not the issue I'll have fresh bearings in there. While I do that I'll be able to get a better look at the calipers and other components. For $100 to do both sides (including fresh "Do not reuse" nuts) it's a good starting place.
We checked extensively for anything loose or rubbing and couldn't find anything.
I ordered a set of bearings, so I'll press those out and the new ones back in next weekend. Easy enough to do and even if that's not the issue I'll have fresh bearings in there. While I do that I'll be able to get a better look at the calipers and other components. For $100 to do both sides (including fresh "Do not reuse" nuts) it's a good starting place.
We checked extensively for anything loose or rubbing and couldn't find anything.
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#8
Senior Member
No difference if I'm on the brakes or just coasting.
I ordered a set of bearings, so I'll press those out and the new ones back in next weekend. Easy enough to do and even if that's not the issue I'll have fresh bearings in there. While I do that I'll be able to get a better look at the calipers and other components. For $100 to do both sides (including fresh "Do not reuse" nuts) it's a good starting place.
We checked extensively for anything loose or rubbing and couldn't find anything.
I ordered a set of bearings, so I'll press those out and the new ones back in next weekend. Easy enough to do and even if that's not the issue I'll have fresh bearings in there. While I do that I'll be able to get a better look at the calipers and other components. For $100 to do both sides (including fresh "Do not reuse" nuts) it's a good starting place.
We checked extensively for anything loose or rubbing and couldn't find anything.
#9
Finally got around to doing the bearings.
They are replaceable on my truck even though the rotor and hub are one piece- rotors are bone stock, they each have a bearing in them secured by a circlip. I pulled the central nut off, hung up the brake caliper, pulled the rotor off, removed the circlip, and then hydraulic pressed the old bearings out. I replaced them with a pair of NATIONAL 517014 that I bought for $35ea on Rockauto. Pressing them back in was smooth after thoroughly cleaning the bores. Then the rotors went back on with fresh locknuts (ACDELCO 18K1128) torqued to 300ft-lbs and the noise is completely gone.
Altogether all it took was a $100 bill and a 50 ton electric hydraulic press that my neighbor happened to have
They are replaceable on my truck even though the rotor and hub are one piece- rotors are bone stock, they each have a bearing in them secured by a circlip. I pulled the central nut off, hung up the brake caliper, pulled the rotor off, removed the circlip, and then hydraulic pressed the old bearings out. I replaced them with a pair of NATIONAL 517014 that I bought for $35ea on Rockauto. Pressing them back in was smooth after thoroughly cleaning the bores. Then the rotors went back on with fresh locknuts (ACDELCO 18K1128) torqued to 300ft-lbs and the noise is completely gone.
Altogether all it took was a $100 bill and a 50 ton electric hydraulic press that my neighbor happened to have