Leather Seat Swap Write Up
#1
Leather Seat Swap Write Up
I have embarked on swapping in leather seats I acquired from a Lariat. My truck is a 2006 XLT SC that originally had a power adjust driver and a manual passenger seat. These Donor seats came from a 2004 lariat SC equipped with Heated seats, both driver and pass power, and memory presets.
Ok so first thing first is sorting out the wiring to get these seats powered up because without the power to move the seats backward and forward you cannot access the bolts to mount them.
This is the connector that all the power accessories run through for the driver's seat
There are 17 wires that run to it with a pin out of:
A1 WH/RD, A2 BK/LB, A3 PK/WH, A5 RD/BK, A7 LB/BK, A9 LB/RD, A10 OG/RD, A11 PK/BK, B1 OG/LG, B2 LB/GR, B3 VT/WT, B4 LB/RD, B6 BK, B8 DG, B9 VT, B10 WT/BL, B11 OG/WH
If you are doing this project with seats like the ones I have with the Memory Switch and heat and are not concerned with getting those features to function then you will have to hook up 4 wires. The wires are A2 BK/LB, B1 OG/LG, B6 BK, and B8 DG. A2 and B1 are the ground and power for the Seat adjust switches and B6 and B8 provide ground and power to the motors. The other 13 wires can be ignored or cut covered and tucked away.
If you were lucky and were able to cut the floor side of the plug pictured above you can start splicing the necessary wires. I wasn't lucky so I bought a bunch of water proof 4 prong connectors from fleabay.
Pic of the connector from another angle
A2, B1, B6, and B8 removed from connector
New connector installed
OG/LG is going to get a 5 amp inline fuse wired in and then spliced to DG. In the original config OG/LG has an always hot 5 amp fuse in the fuse panel. Since this is a retrofit I decided to go ahead and splice it to DG for the all time hot and adding the inline fuse for safe measure. BK/LB and Bk (A2 and B6) can be spliced together because they both provide ground. On the stock config for the XLT under the driver's seat there is a connector that has a DG(30 AMP hot) and BK(Chassis ground) wire, these are where you will splice your hot and grnd leads.
Pic of the wiring at the floor:
See post # 6
Now just bolt them in and enjoy.
If you are interested in hooking up some of the other seat features, See some of the links Below:
Heated Seat Swap Write up:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/lariat-...6/#post2222063
Memory Seat Swap:
(Coming Soon)
Adjustable Pedal in XLT Swap:
(Coming Soon)
EMTC to EATC Swap:
(Coming Soon)
Ok so first thing first is sorting out the wiring to get these seats powered up because without the power to move the seats backward and forward you cannot access the bolts to mount them.
This is the connector that all the power accessories run through for the driver's seat
There are 17 wires that run to it with a pin out of:
A1 WH/RD, A2 BK/LB, A3 PK/WH, A5 RD/BK, A7 LB/BK, A9 LB/RD, A10 OG/RD, A11 PK/BK, B1 OG/LG, B2 LB/GR, B3 VT/WT, B4 LB/RD, B6 BK, B8 DG, B9 VT, B10 WT/BL, B11 OG/WH
If you are doing this project with seats like the ones I have with the Memory Switch and heat and are not concerned with getting those features to function then you will have to hook up 4 wires. The wires are A2 BK/LB, B1 OG/LG, B6 BK, and B8 DG. A2 and B1 are the ground and power for the Seat adjust switches and B6 and B8 provide ground and power to the motors. The other 13 wires can be ignored or cut covered and tucked away.
If you were lucky and were able to cut the floor side of the plug pictured above you can start splicing the necessary wires. I wasn't lucky so I bought a bunch of water proof 4 prong connectors from fleabay.
Pic of the connector from another angle
A2, B1, B6, and B8 removed from connector
New connector installed
OG/LG is going to get a 5 amp inline fuse wired in and then spliced to DG. In the original config OG/LG has an always hot 5 amp fuse in the fuse panel. Since this is a retrofit I decided to go ahead and splice it to DG for the all time hot and adding the inline fuse for safe measure. BK/LB and Bk (A2 and B6) can be spliced together because they both provide ground. On the stock config for the XLT under the driver's seat there is a connector that has a DG(30 AMP hot) and BK(Chassis ground) wire, these are where you will splice your hot and grnd leads.
Pic of the wiring at the floor:
See post # 6
Now just bolt them in and enjoy.
If you are interested in hooking up some of the other seat features, See some of the links Below:
Heated Seat Swap Write up:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/lariat-...6/#post2222063
Memory Seat Swap:
(Coming Soon)
Adjustable Pedal in XLT Swap:
(Coming Soon)
EMTC to EATC Swap:
(Coming Soon)
Last edited by Thisguyuknow; 12-03-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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#4
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wd4usa (02-17-2024)
#6
This is a pic of the DG and BK wires that I am using as my power source for both seats, you can see the connector I cut off in the back ground
Pic of the new connector attached to the power source you can see the 5A inline fuse. note that the small butt connector is for power to the heated seat module and not necessary if you plan to not use that feature:
Pics showing the wires after some dressing with conduit:
I do not have pictures of the underside of the Pass seat because I did it a few weeks back but it is much simpler that the driver's. For the Pass seat there are about 6 or 7 wires all consolidated in one light grey plug. If you are not planning on utilizing the heated option in it then you will need to ground the black wire and hook the RD/WH wire to a 30 Amp all time hot source. The other wires can be cut and taped up as they are for the heated seat module.
Note: If you are dealing with a power pass seat that has power and heater module then there will be 2 BK wires in the connector. The one referenced above for ground is distinguished by its heavier gauge. This wire is noticeably larger than the other BK wire (which is part of the heater module). Just ignore or tape up the lighter BK wire if you you do not intend to interrogate the heater modules any further.
In the factory config this is hooked to a separate 30 amp circuit but in my set up I ran the 2 wires under the carpet and spliced these wires into the driver's seat power and ground under the seat. So both the driver and pass seat share the same 30 amp circuit. Its my opinion that 30 amps should be plenty to run both seats but others may disagree.
Also note that both driver and pass seats have a black connector underneath them that is about 3 inches long. These are for the seat belt sensors and various safety items installed in the seats. these are a one for one plug and play with the original connectors. The passenger seat also has a weight sensor in it that has its own small black plug, again this will plug and play between the XLT and Lariat models.
Pic of the safety sensor connector:
Pic of the new connector attached to the power source you can see the 5A inline fuse. note that the small butt connector is for power to the heated seat module and not necessary if you plan to not use that feature:
Pics showing the wires after some dressing with conduit:
I do not have pictures of the underside of the Pass seat because I did it a few weeks back but it is much simpler that the driver's. For the Pass seat there are about 6 or 7 wires all consolidated in one light grey plug. If you are not planning on utilizing the heated option in it then you will need to ground the black wire and hook the RD/WH wire to a 30 Amp all time hot source. The other wires can be cut and taped up as they are for the heated seat module.
Note: If you are dealing with a power pass seat that has power and heater module then there will be 2 BK wires in the connector. The one referenced above for ground is distinguished by its heavier gauge. This wire is noticeably larger than the other BK wire (which is part of the heater module). Just ignore or tape up the lighter BK wire if you you do not intend to interrogate the heater modules any further.
In the factory config this is hooked to a separate 30 amp circuit but in my set up I ran the 2 wires under the carpet and spliced these wires into the driver's seat power and ground under the seat. So both the driver and pass seat share the same 30 amp circuit. Its my opinion that 30 amps should be plenty to run both seats but others may disagree.
Also note that both driver and pass seats have a black connector underneath them that is about 3 inches long. These are for the seat belt sensors and various safety items installed in the seats. these are a one for one plug and play with the original connectors. The passenger seat also has a weight sensor in it that has its own small black plug, again this will plug and play between the XLT and Lariat models.
Pic of the safety sensor connector:
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toddman1973 (02-27-2024)
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#8
You could check. I do not know for sure. If not it it wont be too hard to cleanly run a wire from the pos on the battery with an inline 30A fuse to the seats.
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wd4usa (02-17-2024)
#9
Senior Member