mausc

The family is about 2/3 the way through a 2800 mile trip towing a 4800lb travel trailer behind our 2006 screw 4wd. About 150 mile before rolling into Pigeon Forge TN I started hearing a rattling coming from the left front of the vehicle when under load. We continued to our camp site in PF and I started doing research. Y'all here on the forum were a great help. Yep, it's the dreaded IWE screech. Driving around town and into the mountains it acts up, but shifting it to 4wd shuts it right up.

Ok.... So now that I know what's wrong, what to do about it? I called my mechanic back home. He suggested I yank the vac line at the hub and replace it with one from a local auto parts store. Sounded plausible but he highlighted to make sure I had the replacement in hand before pulling the old one. We'll how do I know what to buy if I don't have the old one in hand? What's the probably that the leak is just in that LH line? I called 2 local dealers and 3 local mechanics shops and nobody can see me until the end of the week, and we head home Friday.

That's leading me to start to evaluate limp home options....

A) Drive most of the way home in 4wd. Mainly highway driving with minimal sharp turns. My mechanic suggested that, and said we'd service the front diff when I get back. Dealer advised against.

B) Drive home in 2wd and let the IWE hub lunch itself. It's likely pretty beat up already so it's just confirming the inevitable.

Anyone have any advice?

Martian

Agreed with the mech about starting with the vac line, but not just replacing it. I'd loan out a vac line tester from the parts store and test the lines, first. If they're good, it's not that. Have you replaced the IWE solenoid mounted on the firewall? That's a very common fail part. It's also a 10 minute parking lot fix.

I also don't like the advice of going home in 4wd on pavement the whole way.

BryanKephart

So to clear this a little, is the noise only when you get into the throttle, like going up a hill. My truck was like that, I'm assuming your is too.

But I thought if you disconnected the vacuum line it'll engage the Hub the rest of the way. Just pull the line off the vacuum assist pump, by the ECU. I would NOT drive in 4WD home. The hub can be engaged, but you don't want the transfer case engaged like that.

Martian

If you're going to pull off the vac line for the rest of the trip, plug it somehow. You don't want that air being sucked into the engine unfiltered.

mausc

I'm gonna stop at Auto Zone and see if they have a shop manual. If for no other reason to see where all this stuff is located. I've read the various tutorials and think I understand how the system works, but still not sure where/what to look at 1st. I have a basic tool set with me. Not equipped to do much but I can do some.

I thought about pulling the vacuum line and letting the hub engage. Wouldn't having one wheel engaged and the other freewheeling (transfer case disengaged) wreak havoc on the front diff and/or CV joints?

BryanKephart

It's okay to let the hub engage without the transfer case. Super duty trucks have manual locking hubs, guys who are lazy leave them engaged all the time, no issues i know of

BadFish523

As Martin said, borrow a vac tester. Check for leaks. If no leaks then maybe spend $25 at almost any auto parts store for an IWE solenoid. A lot of the time if the solenoid is bad the 4x4 light wont come on in the dash. Does your 4x4 light in the dash come on when you shift into 4H? If you don't like those options then unplug the vac lines at the solenoid and cover the ends very well with some duct tape. This will engage the IWEs but not the transfer case. If you have to drive it home then this is the way I would recommend.


Heres a quick video on how to replace the solenoid. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...2CF8&FORM=VIRE

BadFish523

The solenoid can be replaced with just a 10mm wrench/socket and ratchet. Like Martin said its literally a 10 minute parking lot fix for around $25


Edit: I THINK its a 10mm, I know for sure you only need one socket

BadFish523

The solenoid is right behind the battery on the passenger side firewall.


This is the old style without the rain shield


This is the new style with a rain shield.

mausc

When shifting into 4wd the dash light DOES illuminate. It is clearly engaging because the steering is 'clunky' when turning. I have only put it in 4wd sparingly.

Is the IWE solenoid a standard auto parts store item?

I can see pulling the vac lines on both wheels. Seems to me having both locked is better than one. Otherwise it seems I'd trash the position clutches in the front diff. Am I missing something?