jaxonboats

GREAT suggestion, time consuming but great thinking!! thanks

jaxonboats

Hey Yall’ Looks like a final update on this one. The noise is gone.

I actually have held off in posting this update for a few days just to make sure the sound was actually gone because I am somewhat in disbelief.

I replaced the struts, drove the truck and absolutely no sounds at all. How is that possible? Sounded like it was coming off the wheels?- seemed like it happen consistently with 3 clinktink sounds per wheel revolution. OK this is totally Beyond Me! Justhappy as a clam the clink noise is gone.

Now keep in mind, this all started with noisy IWEs that we could see the CV engaged in a drive by while in 2wd. By replacing basically everything we did get rid of that fast clicking noise by replacing the IWEs and Vacuum harness. Installed new hub bearings (while I was there) as they are not that expensive. Installed the Monroe QuickStruts 171361ST – Less than 2 hours, super easy to do – YOU CAN DO ALL THIS!! The result a no clicking SWEET RIDE that feels completely solid.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Well I found out what my problem was today with my jingling ringing sound with my passenger front wheel..
Turns out that my brand new OEM hub actuator split in 2 at the plastic collar.. The part where the gear sits on the actuator that engages the cv.





This sheared and separated right off and was causing a very partial engagement of my pass side CV on left hand turns and bumps..




Luckily I saved my old working actuators and swapped it out with my new broken one..
The old one is on the top and the new broken one is on the bottom..





This was hard to diagnose. I was chasing everything but the actuators since I replaced them while I was rebuilding the whole front end. I figured while I was in there I might as well replace everything..



The noise is now gone, and the truck rolls free'er than ever.. I'm just relived that I saved my old actuators that I took off in good working condition.. I cleaned and re-greased the actuator and the IWE.

I'm bringing the broken actuator back to the dealer I bought it from, and I'm asking for a refund or replacement.

The repair was easy..
Take the wheel off, pop the upper ball joint out of the knuckle. Then pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle. Let the knuckle lay with wheel studs facing the ground and take the single CV shaft nut off.. Pull the CV out of the hub and unbolt the actuator.. Then slide the actuator and CV out of the knuckle the rest of the way.. Should take about 30 min..

I'm glad I can put this mystery to rest, and I hope it helps any of you guys hearing a ringing, or jingling sound on turns on bumps..

VTX1800N1

Wow. Never seen that with a new IWE. Definitely a factory defect.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

That's exactly what I'm thinking as well.. I just don't see any other way with how that would have sheared off so cleanly... There must have been a hairline crack in it when I bought it... It's aggravating, but having the old actuators on hand definitely took all the stress out of the repair... Hopefully the dealership where I bought the part can see how this failure was beyond my control.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

The dealer swapped the part out, so now I got a fresh actuator.. I was a little worried they were gonna tell me to go pound sand, but nobody can really argue that the damage was from a manufacturing defect..

vintageman

Glad you figured it out and the dealership took care of the bad part.
Tom