jaxonboats

OK new vacuum harness is in and NOPE still here the click sound coming off the left side, about 3 clicks per rotation when turning right. Not sure if the right side is clicking.
Vacuum harness was an interesting install, best to start from the center underneath the truck and work your way outward towards the wheels. I pulled the battery and removed the battery box screws to give better access on the right but you might be able to pull it off without taking the battery out.

Summary
IWEs, Hub/Bearings, Solenoid, Check Valves, Vacuum harness all brand new
Double greased the needle bearings and caked it on all over the IWE & splines
Verified vacuum at the wheels to be 20.5 inKg, tested the IWE with a hand vacuum to show it completly retracts with 7 inKg of vacuum, Left side takes longer to pump down I am estimating because the harness main vacuum is pulled from the right side and it takes a little more time to get full vacuum to the left side (harness is about 6 feet long). Blew air into the old harness to see if any debris came out, it was almost perfectly clean shot at a white papertowel (barely a mist of dust almost invisable but look super super close and it had very little bit of dust) I was hoping for a rock or something to say YEY thats the bugger.

Clicking sound only happens when turning seems like its coming from the IWE/ Hub area. Just like Es86 seems like I have done everything.
Any suggestions on where to go next? I remain baffled but I have lots of new parts on the truck.
thanks for the help
jack

VTX1800N1

Brakes? Brake back plate?

lewissa81

Man, that is a pickle. If you're sure that everything is working as it should, then it may be time to start looking at other things. Like VTX1800N1 said, check out the brakes. Make sure everything is torqued properly.

jaxonboats

THanks I did check both dust shields when I pulled off the IWEs and packed the needle bearings. My current thoughts are it must be either the new Hub Bearing assembly or the IWE- only because this sound came after changing out everything at the axles with brand new parts. Similar to Es86, the fast clicking sound of the IWEs trying to engage due to low or lower vacuum seems to be gone, however this sound came up and can be heard at low speed right turn and happens about 3 clinks per wheel revolution on the left side.
As a note, when the truck is jacked up, rotating the front wheels does not make any sounds, what I did not try is turning the wheels first then jacking it up an rotating.

thanks so much
jack

jaxonboats

2006 FX4 4x4 – IWE (s)? click while turning
Updated to current:::
Yes one more IWE clicking thread beyond the norm of solenoid, I feel like Ihave read them all. If you are a DIYer,this is NOT hard to do.
Symptom- front IWEs seem to be clicking- about (3 click tink or twang) sound perrevolution at slow speed turn (not the card in bike spoke sound- just the 3clicks per wheel revolution)

Running straight no sound.

Turn on Stereo : Can’t hear a thing.



Below summarizes this entire thread.


So Far I have replaced:

IWEs both sides - easy to do = $129

Hub & Bearing Both sides- easy to do when you remove theupper A arm and tie rod= $123

Vacuum Solenoid at the fire wall- best to pull the batteryout first = $21 CX-2177

Vacuum check valve in the vacuum harness = $16 ford dealer

Vacuum Harness $58 - Best to start install underneath at thecenter and feed the harness up then back. I pulled the battery box bolts loosejust to be sure I could see everything was connected.



Tests Performed – from suggestions posted

Pulled the vacuum box behind the battery- pulled vacuumworks fine.

Pulled vacuum on the IWEs that are new just to see if one orboth may have been bad, NOPE they held vacuum Note: it only took 7 inHg tototally retract the IWE Pulled vacuum on the IWEs at the wheels- found thatleft side is slower to come up to vacuum compared to the right side onlybecause the vacuum is being pulled from the right side ( a function of linelength)

Vacuum levels at the wheels was 20.5 inHg

Checked the 3 check valves on the harness, found onequestionable- easy to test, air only goes one way- FYI There are 3 total check valves on theharness, 2 small outlets both near the vacuum solenoid and 1 large outlet nearthe brake booster housing.

No problems shifting from 2wd to 4wdh and back
As a note when pulling off the check valves and vacuum lines, in almost everycase the first line pulled gave me that psssst sound (so the harness isretaining pressure) same goes for pulling the check valves same psssst sound.

Suggestion to verify that the needle bearing was totallygreases, pulled both side worked in the grease and cake it on everything.

Check brake area (rotor, caliper, dust shield, everythingwas tight, no evidence of anything even close to touching, no rub marks

Suggestion to check the torque (qty per side) - Axle nut(1)= 20lbs | Hub Bearing bolts (4) = 148lbs | Caliper Bolts (2) = 148lbs | Upper AArm = 85lbs | Tie Tod = 111lbs |

When pulling the IWE I learned the hardway it is best justto remove the Upper A Arm bolt and Tie Rod Bolt, pull the Rotor then Caliper, Hub and bearing assembly is the best approach.Trying to snake the CV out of the way on my truck (2” Leveling) was a bad call.

My Story: Bought the truck a couple months ago and loveit. All Leather, Sun Roof, Nav Back Up Cam, basically the works. Threw some newGoodyears on it and considering the truck has 141K, I figure replacing anyparts with new would give me the confidence of knowing what’s new. We use thetruck to get our Malibu to the Lake!Drought!

When I first went after the IWEs and got stuck, I took it toa nearby shop they quoted me $90 to replace both IWEs that I already bought.Long story short, got a call 2 hours later with a new quote $1000-$1200, I toldthem to put it back together. But I was thinking the ole bait and switch- whata bunch of BS.

So far $347.

lewissa81

I know this is frustrating man. Haven't given up on you yet. Thought of something else to try. Unplug the vacuum line before the solenoid. This will engage both iwe's, but the transfer case will still be in 2wd (you don't want to drive on the street in 4wd). Go for a drive. If the problem persists, that will mean that it's not vacuum related at all. If the problem goes away, then it is vacuum related. I know that this isn't extremely helpful, but maybe we can narrow down the possibilities so that you don't waste any more money.

jaxonboats

Thanks that is not too hard to do.
My action plan right now is to lift the truck, turn the wheels, hand rotate with vacuum pulled on the IWE to see if I can hear it.
the sound can not be heard in 4wd only in 2wd and the shifting seems to work find. Never got an answer on if the 2006 is a shift on the fly or do I need to stop and put it in neutral before shifting?? (seems to me it would be on the fly but not going to break anything).
So far the money part has not been too bad, a few hundred dollars for an all new front spindle through vacuum lines- its all good, I am keeping this truck.


Like my Dad used to say, I have never met a woman or used car that didn't want to take all my cash on the first date and you never know if your going to get lucky.

jaxonboats

Well did not find a thing. pulled the vacuum line, most definently in 4wd. No sound, put vacuum line on, definently in 2wd clicktink sound again. this time I jacked the wheels up and spun them with the truck running, both spin free, no CV engagement but NO sound- so what is different about the wheel assembly spinning on the road and making that tink sound verses being jacked up? (the weight of the truck) I am at the a point of turn up the music if it breaks at least we will find out what it was and be able to replace it. My last guess is the IWE on the drivers side just wants to drive me nuts... its becoming personal.

any suggestions within reason i will try- totally appreciate all the suggestions but just like ES86 we are unable to figure this one out.

VTX1800N1

Only thing I can think of is some misalignment between the axle, IWE, and hub.

VTX1800N1

Start swapping parts between the side that is making the noise and the side that isn't. Swap one part at a time. IWE and hub are the only two parts that are universal between sides, I think. If the noise moves, you found the problem.