IWE - Axle shredded
03-27-2016, 04:12 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IWE - Axle shredded
Hey fellas...Been doing a lot of reading on here about the IWE system but have a few questions that don't seem that or as common since my 4x4 system seems to work fine...
I've got an '04 F150 (6" lift, 35's - since that may factor into my issue). Anyway the system seemed to be working well, went in and out fine. One day out digging a bit and I got into some little thicker **** and BAM. Lost 4x4 and heard a heavy grind. Got out of the hole with some help and sure enough, back wheels would spin and so would front passenger half shaft but not the wheel. Got home to find a completely shredded passenger side IWE, only the half of the gears that ride in the hub that the axle didn't completely shear off/grind off. Fine - replaces IWE since axle looked alright/clean. Because I had a good never damaged used axle and IWE from a buddy, put those one - looked good spinning on ice. Got out in some snow where it had to work a bit (not hard). BAM - same deal. Got working/Digging a bit and "Buuuzzzzzzzz" lose 4x4. And half shaft spins, not the wheel.
WTF. I realize that 35's are a bigger tire but I really wasn't humping on it the second time. Was making a turn on the lake in the snow. Any suggestions as to why? Simply the IWE not able to take turning the 35" tire since I know tons of guys have run them. Also, why would I seemingly never get power to my Drivers side? I know it's an open diff (non-posi) for turning purposes but should I not get SOME action on the drivers side? Or is it because once I stripped the IWE that I had no pressure that it would want to free wheel on that side?
I've got an '04 F150 (6" lift, 35's - since that may factor into my issue). Anyway the system seemed to be working well, went in and out fine. One day out digging a bit and I got into some little thicker **** and BAM. Lost 4x4 and heard a heavy grind. Got out of the hole with some help and sure enough, back wheels would spin and so would front passenger half shaft but not the wheel. Got home to find a completely shredded passenger side IWE, only the half of the gears that ride in the hub that the axle didn't completely shear off/grind off. Fine - replaces IWE since axle looked alright/clean. Because I had a good never damaged used axle and IWE from a buddy, put those one - looked good spinning on ice. Got out in some snow where it had to work a bit (not hard). BAM - same deal. Got working/Digging a bit and "Buuuzzzzzzzz" lose 4x4. And half shaft spins, not the wheel.
WTF. I realize that 35's are a bigger tire but I really wasn't humping on it the second time. Was making a turn on the lake in the snow. Any suggestions as to why? Simply the IWE not able to take turning the 35" tire since I know tons of guys have run them. Also, why would I seemingly never get power to my Drivers side? I know it's an open diff (non-posi) for turning purposes but should I not get SOME action on the drivers side? Or is it because once I stripped the IWE that I had no pressure that it would want to free wheel on that side?
03-27-2016, 05:02 PM
#2
Senior Member
Hey fellas...Been doing a lot of reading on here about the IWE system but have a few questions that don't seem that or as common since my 4x4 system seems to work fine...
I've got an '04 F150 (6" lift, 35's - since that may factor into my issue). Anyway the system seemed to be working well, went in and out fine. One day out digging a bit and I got into some little thicker **** and BAM. Lost 4x4 and heard a heavy grind. Got out of the hole with some help and sure enough, back wheels would spin and so would front passenger half shaft but not the wheel. Got home to find a completely shredded passenger side IWE, only the half of the gears that ride in the hub that the axle didn't completely shear off/grind off. Fine - replaces IWE since axle looked alright/clean. Because I had a good never damaged used axle and IWE from a buddy, put those one - looked good spinning on ice. Got out in some snow where it had to work a bit (not hard). BAM - same deal. Got working/Digging a bit and "Buuuzzzzzzzz" lose 4x4. And half shaft spins, not the wheel.
WTF. I realize that 35's are a bigger tire but I really wasn't humping on it the second time. Was making a turn on the lake in the snow. Any suggestions as to why? Simply the IWE not able to take turning the 35" tire since I know tons of guys have run them. Also, why would I seemingly never get power to my Drivers side? I know it's an open diff (non-posi) for turning purposes but should I not get SOME action on the drivers side? Or is it because once I stripped the IWE that I had no pressure that it would want to free wheel on that side?
I've got an '04 F150 (6" lift, 35's - since that may factor into my issue). Anyway the system seemed to be working well, went in and out fine. One day out digging a bit and I got into some little thicker **** and BAM. Lost 4x4 and heard a heavy grind. Got out of the hole with some help and sure enough, back wheels would spin and so would front passenger half shaft but not the wheel. Got home to find a completely shredded passenger side IWE, only the half of the gears that ride in the hub that the axle didn't completely shear off/grind off. Fine - replaces IWE since axle looked alright/clean. Because I had a good never damaged used axle and IWE from a buddy, put those one - looked good spinning on ice. Got out in some snow where it had to work a bit (not hard). BAM - same deal. Got working/Digging a bit and "Buuuzzzzzzzz" lose 4x4. And half shaft spins, not the wheel.
WTF. I realize that 35's are a bigger tire but I really wasn't humping on it the second time. Was making a turn on the lake in the snow. Any suggestions as to why? Simply the IWE not able to take turning the 35" tire since I know tons of guys have run them. Also, why would I seemingly never get power to my Drivers side? I know it's an open diff (non-posi) for turning purposes but should I not get SOME action on the drivers side? Or is it because once I stripped the IWE that I had no pressure that it would want to free wheel on that side?
if you're buying cheap IWE'S to save money that's the problem.. buy OEM
shouldn't have any issues with 6 in and 35's the cv axle shouldn't be in any sort of crazy angle at that lift
03-27-2016, 06:26 PM
#3
TOTM 8/2019
I replaced an IWE, that plastic ring gear in there doesn't look that strong but I guess they work for stock applications and not going to crazy rock crawling and so forth.
Did you use a Dorman or aftermarket IWE? I'd suggest replacing again with OEM since it may be stronger, that's the best you'd get anyway.
But the lift won't put any extra stress on the IWE gear(just the CV joints), it would just be the extra weight of your tires and also if you were doing some real heavy offroading that would really put stress on the IWE ring gear(I could see if your tire was stuck, and you punched it in 4wd the IWE ring gear could strip).
I guess it's possible to break them, they look pretty cheesy to me. It has to be designed that way because the IWE would strip out as the weak link or else you'd have bigger problems like destroyed CV shaft and hubs, or possible transfer case.
I wouldn't know I have 33's and do highway driving, those plastic IWE's work for me on the occasional time I use them..........
Did you use a Dorman or aftermarket IWE? I'd suggest replacing again with OEM since it may be stronger, that's the best you'd get anyway.
But the lift won't put any extra stress on the IWE gear(just the CV joints), it would just be the extra weight of your tires and also if you were doing some real heavy offroading that would really put stress on the IWE ring gear(I could see if your tire was stuck, and you punched it in 4wd the IWE ring gear could strip).
I guess it's possible to break them, they look pretty cheesy to me. It has to be designed that way because the IWE would strip out as the weak link or else you'd have bigger problems like destroyed CV shaft and hubs, or possible transfer case.
I wouldn't know I have 33's and do highway driving, those plastic IWE's work for me on the occasional time I use them..........
Last edited by ReaperHWK; 03-27-2016 at 06:31 PM.
03-27-2016, 06:49 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thx guys for the responses. I'll pull this one and I'm sure I'll see the same sheared axle side teeth on the IWE actuator and check to see no damage has been done to the axle side. As mentioned the IWE is designed to be the weak link of the two but you never know...metal shearing off other metal could have consequences I guess but my other axle still looks decent so it coul go back in.
I did use some aftermarket IWE actuators on the FIRST blow out but this second go around it should have been an OEM (albeit used) make. That said...it is entirely possible that it too was an aftermarket since my buddy didn't own the truck new that it came off and it had at least two prior owners. So it could very well have been a used aftermarket. I'll pony up for a new OEM and go from there.
Thx guys! Figures I'd check if this was a prior issue being as it was two in less than 100km of 4x4 use thinking maybe my system was causing it to try and engage/disengage while under pressure resulting in it eating gears.
I did use some aftermarket IWE actuators on the FIRST blow out but this second go around it should have been an OEM (albeit used) make. That said...it is entirely possible that it too was an aftermarket since my buddy didn't own the truck new that it came off and it had at least two prior owners. So it could very well have been a used aftermarket. I'll pony up for a new OEM and go from there.
Thx guys! Figures I'd check if this was a prior issue being as it was two in less than 100km of 4x4 use thinking maybe my system was causing it to try and engage/disengage while under pressure resulting in it eating gears.
03-28-2016, 05:56 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thx guys for the responses. I'll pull this one and I'm sure I'll see the same sheared axle side teeth on the IWE actuator and check to see no damage has been done to the axle side. As mentioned the IWE is designed to be the weak link of the two but you never know...metal shearing off other metal could have consequences I guess but my other axle still looks decent so it coul go back in. I did use some aftermarket IWE actuators on the FIRST blow out but this second go around it should have been an OEM (albeit used) make. That said...it is entirely possible that it too was an aftermarket since my buddy didn't own the truck new that it came off and it had at least two prior owners. So it could very well have been a used aftermarket. I'll pony up for a new OEM and go from there. Thx guys! Figures I'd check if this was a prior issue being as it was two in less than 100km of 4x4 use thinking maybe my system was causing it to try and engage/disengage while under pressure resulting in it eating gears.
03-28-2016, 12:01 PM
#6
TOTM 8/2019
03-28-2016, 08:51 PM
#7
Senior Member
Two things.
It appears you put a used IWE and axle in, is that correct?
I would think you just got unlucky with the used one, likely weak and on it's way out.
As far as only turning one axle, with any open diff power is only sent to one axle, the easiest one to spin. Once you broke the IWE that side became the easiest one to spin. An open diff will only turn one side which is why a limited slip of some kind in the rear should be considered mandatory IMO. If you are a regular off-roader you may want to look into some kind of lockable front diff like an ARB air locker that you can turn on and off as needed. It really make a huge difference when off road.
It appears you put a used IWE and axle in, is that correct?
I would think you just got unlucky with the used one, likely weak and on it's way out.
As far as only turning one axle, with any open diff power is only sent to one axle, the easiest one to spin. Once you broke the IWE that side became the easiest one to spin. An open diff will only turn one side which is why a limited slip of some kind in the rear should be considered mandatory IMO. If you are a regular off-roader you may want to look into some kind of lockable front diff like an ARB air locker that you can turn on and off as needed. It really make a huge difference when off road.
