Intermittent no crank issue
#1
Intermittent no crank issue
a little help on where to start looking please!
A little background that might be helpful: I had my transmission rebuilt 2 weeks ago, so I'm thinking it could be a loose connector or something, but i'm not sure.
As i was leaving the store 2 nights ago, the truck wouldn't start. dash lights come on, battery is good, i hear the relay click under the dash, but nothing. after a couple tries, it started.
the next night, same thing. run up to the store, come back and nothing. this time i notice that the PATS light will double flash when attempting to crank, and will only go off if the key is on. (not sure if that's the correct operation, i've never payed attention). after 30 minutes i gave up and went home, but returned with a hammer to tap the starter in case it was going bad. i thought i'd give it one last try with the key and it turned over!
so i'm stumped at this point. maybe the starter was heat soaked and is going bad? maybe there's a safety interlock related to the shifter? (I have the flow thru btw), perhaps a PATS thing?
any help is appreciated!
A little background that might be helpful: I had my transmission rebuilt 2 weeks ago, so I'm thinking it could be a loose connector or something, but i'm not sure.
As i was leaving the store 2 nights ago, the truck wouldn't start. dash lights come on, battery is good, i hear the relay click under the dash, but nothing. after a couple tries, it started.
the next night, same thing. run up to the store, come back and nothing. this time i notice that the PATS light will double flash when attempting to crank, and will only go off if the key is on. (not sure if that's the correct operation, i've never payed attention). after 30 minutes i gave up and went home, but returned with a hammer to tap the starter in case it was going bad. i thought i'd give it one last try with the key and it turned over!
so i'm stumped at this point. maybe the starter was heat soaked and is going bad? maybe there's a safety interlock related to the shifter? (I have the flow thru btw), perhaps a PATS thing?
any help is appreciated!
#3
Have parts store test it, possibly relay or starter problem. Have you cleaned your battery cables good? Not knowing the age of your battery it could also be a weak cell in it. A decent battery you can leave your head lights on for 30 minutes and the truck will start right up. I once went into work and forgot the lights on and came out 8 hours later it started right up. I was astounded !
Last edited by papa tiger; 10-04-2014 at 09:28 PM.
#4
the battery was replaced just before last summer and when it does crank, there's never a hard start. when it doesn't crank, there's only the click of the relay in the fuse panel.
#5
Senior Member
I'd check the wire by the battery that goes to the solenoid, the connector is known for corroding. *IF* your PATS light is flashing, do you by chance have a remote starter? If so, look under the dash and if you can find a bypass module, disconnect it and see if it's starts. I've seen installers wire them on permanently and sometimes the Ford computer has lost the code for that particular bypass (needs to be reprogrammed). They should never be wired permanent though as it disables the PATS security when the bypass is recognized.
#6
I'd check the wire by the battery that goes to the solenoid, the connector is known for corroding. *IF* your PATS light is flashing, do you by chance have a remote starter? If so, look under the dash and if you can find a bypass module, disconnect it and see if it's starts. I've seen installers wire them on permanently and sometimes the Ford computer has lost the code for that particular bypass (needs to be reprogrammed). They should never be wired permanent though as it disables the PATS security when the bypass is recognized.
when my transmission was replaced, would they have had to remove my starter?
#7
If you have a remote lock/unlock check its battery. Then look thru your cable connections to find the corroded one at the starter. I'm going to guess here and say since your relay clicks it is faulty. You would here the starter also click if it was at the problem was starter. Both the relay and the starter solenoid contacts wear. The starter usually needs complete service when that solenoid is bad. Upper relay is cheaper to test and replace. Corrosion will drive U nutz until you remove it.
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#8
Senior Member
Check out the neutral saftey switch, had the exact thing as you describe happen after a rebuild. If it does not start, leave the key on and put in gear then back to park and see if it starts.
#9
so the jack legs didn't seat the connector for the neutral safety switch all the way. clicked it into place and it fired right up. thanks!
#10
Senior Member