I tried to search but failed
#2
you want a detailed break down of how to do it, or what companies make good ones, or what sizes to use?
a general breakdown is you remove the tire, the brake caliper, the outer tie rods, the upper and lower control arms from the steering knuckles, then the strut from both the LCA mount and the strut tower, attach the spacer to the top of the strut and put everything back together.
brands... there are tons and tons of them, getting replacement struts like with rancho quicklift, bilstiens, or more expensively with fox or king eliminates one step and will likely improve ride. if you just want to buy the spacers, I like the steel ones like hell bent steel but I'm sure all the other ones are fine.
height... 2.5 inch max IMO... I have a 3 inch and have tore cv boots and my upper control arm contacts the coil overs on full droop.
a general breakdown is you remove the tire, the brake caliper, the outer tie rods, the upper and lower control arms from the steering knuckles, then the strut from both the LCA mount and the strut tower, attach the spacer to the top of the strut and put everything back together.
brands... there are tons and tons of them, getting replacement struts like with rancho quicklift, bilstiens, or more expensively with fox or king eliminates one step and will likely improve ride. if you just want to buy the spacers, I like the steel ones like hell bent steel but I'm sure all the other ones are fine.
height... 2.5 inch max IMO... I have a 3 inch and have tore cv boots and my upper control arm contacts the coil overs on full droop.
#3
Your Boy Blue
Thread Starter
you want a detailed break down of how to do it, or what companies make good ones, or what sizes to use?
a general breakdown is you remove the tire, the brake caliper, the outer tie rods, the upper and lower control arms from the steering knuckles, then the strut from both the LCA mount and the strut tower, attach the spacer to the top of the strut and put everything back together.
brands... there are tons and tons of them, getting replacement struts like with rancho quicklift, bilstiens, or more expensively with fox or king eliminates one step and will likely improve ride. if you just want to buy the spacers, I like the steel ones like hell bent steel but I'm sure all the other ones are fine.
height... 2.5 inch max IMO... I have a 3 inch and have tore cv boots and my upper control arm contacts the coil overs on full droop.
a general breakdown is you remove the tire, the brake caliper, the outer tie rods, the upper and lower control arms from the steering knuckles, then the strut from both the LCA mount and the strut tower, attach the spacer to the top of the strut and put everything back together.
brands... there are tons and tons of them, getting replacement struts like with rancho quicklift, bilstiens, or more expensively with fox or king eliminates one step and will likely improve ride. if you just want to buy the spacers, I like the steel ones like hell bent steel but I'm sure all the other ones are fine.
height... 2.5 inch max IMO... I have a 3 inch and have tore cv boots and my upper control arm contacts the coil overs on full droop.
#4
Mark
iTrader: (1)
true... 2WD dont have CV shaft angle to deal with..
The following users liked this post:
uzikaduzi (04-14-2014)
#5
yeah it's 4x4 and like techrep said, it's not as bad on a 2wd because there are no cv shafts... but there still are issues... your tie rods are at very extreme angles since they still mount on the bottom of the steering knuckle, and I'd assume your upper control arm may still contact the coils. I have a rough country lift sitting in my garage right now... just waiting to make a decision on how to lift the rear (because they want me to stack blocks which aint gonna happen) I wish I went smaller than 3" but if I was going to keep it, I'd get new upper control arms with uniballs and ream and sleeve the steering knuckle so it was top mounted.
#6
Your Boy Blue
Thread Starter
So if I go 2" should I do anything in the rear?
2" front nothing back
2.5" front 1" rear?
3" front 1.5" rear?
Ive got a 2wd pretty well leveled now. Maybe 1-1.5 off. Just want a little higher ride.
2" front nothing back
2.5" front 1" rear?
3" front 1.5" rear?
Ive got a 2wd pretty well leveled now. Maybe 1-1.5 off. Just want a little higher ride.
#7
Senior Member
yeah it's 4x4 and like techrep said, it's not as bad on a 2wd because there are no cv shafts... but there still are issues... your tie rods are at very extreme angles since they still mount on the bottom of the steering knuckle, and I'd assume your upper control arm may still contact the coils. I have a rough country lift sitting in my garage right now... just waiting to make a decision on how to lift the rear (because they want me to stack blocks which aint gonna happen) I wish I went smaller than 3" but if I was going to keep it, I'd get new upper control arms with uniballs and ream and sleeve the steering knuckle so it was top mounted.
Trending Topics
#8
I see kits all the time for older trucks... jeeps and broncos seem to be the most common, but I don't know if there is a specific kit for the 04-08 f150. really you don't need a kit, you just need to know the correct taper to get the correct size sleeve and reamer. I did mine on an old jeep xj and it's not difficult.
here's basically how you do it
http://www.ok4wd.com/flipkitinstall.pdf
something they leave out is that it is very easy to remove material and you can easily take too much out. so in addition to these instructions, I'd move the tape in step 2 a mm closer to the tip of the reamer and there is absolutely NO reason to put the reamer in a drill, it will get away from you.
another option if the reamer scares you would be to add a sleeve to the bottom taper and go with heim joints on the top... no reaming required then
#9
I have a 3 inch in the front and increased the rear 1 3/8's on my 4x4. and the rear is a 1/4 inch higher than the front. not sure if that will equate well to the 2wd. I'd go with the 2.5" front and 1" rear if it were me