How to replace lifter/ followers on the 5.4?
05-21-2015, 10:36 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
How to replace lifter/ followers on the 5.4?
Anyone have a link or video or know how to replace the lifter / followers on a 5.4 ? Im about to dig into changing my phasers and timing components and figured it would be a good idea while i had it all apart .
Im hoping i can just mark the cam and cam caps , unbolt the cam and replace the lifter and followers 1 by 1 and re torque everything back down and put it back together the same way it was prior .
Anyone know the cam cap torque?
Any specific sequence or tutorials on how to do it?
Im hoping i can just mark the cam and cam caps , unbolt the cam and replace the lifter and followers 1 by 1 and re torque everything back down and put it back together the same way it was prior .
Anyone know the cam cap torque?
Any specific sequence or tutorials on how to do it?
05-21-2015, 05:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
I saw you question about the harmonic balancer in the other thread, here's my answer to this and that question as I did both. The timing mark (tick mark) on the harmonic balancer is at 1:00 and the rung is pointing at 12:00; have the valve covers off before you even set the harmonic balancer because you need to make sure that the cam lobes are pointing in the right direction. Look in my picture albums for a pic of these. Once VC are off, rotate the crank at the harmonic balancer till the tick mark is at 1:00 then look at the cam lobes. If not correct, then rotate the engine another 360 degrees and look at the cam lobes again, they should be positioned right by now. Mark the cam caps and a non-journaled part of the cam with a paint pen or nail polish. At this point, I started with taking the front cover pieces off and then the cover. I then removed the Phasers and chains and the tensioner components. Then loosened the cam caps starting at the center cap and working my way outward to each in a 3 or 4 step process until they were loose. The direction and position that they come off matters, so keep them in order and facing the right direction when you put them on a table or whatever. Take the cams out. Soak your new lash adjusters in oil for a while and then while still submerged in oil, kinda pump the plunger end so that you bleed any air out of them. Pull old one out, put new one in. Put Follower on top, when one side is done, place cam back in place and reinstall caps. Put a pair of vice grips on a non journaled part of the cam to hold it steady when you are tightening the cam caps, work from the center outward in 3 -4 steps. Don't over tighten (torque is listed somewhere on this site, forgot what it is). Do both sides. Install your tensioner guides and the tensioners, line up the colored link on the chain with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket, line up the 2 colored links on the chain with the arrow on the phaser and reinstall on cam. You may have to turn the cam slightly for the phaser to mate up properly with the cam, use the vice grips to turn the cam slightly. Do both sides, when you have the chain and phasers on, make sure that you torque the phasers properly, then pull the retaining clip on the tensioners. Rotate the engine by hand a few full revolutions and check for binding. The colored links will not line up with the dots or arrows at this point. Reinstall the reluctor ring in the proper direction and the the cover and the rest of the parts. When ready to start it, hold the gas pedal down and crank the engine for about 10 seconds, do this 4 or 5 times to build up oil pressure in the tensioners then start the truck. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
Tom
05-22-2015, 10:21 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I saw you question about the harmonic balancer in the other thread, here's my answer to this and that question as I did both. The timing mark (tick mark) on the harmonic balancer is at 1:00 and the rung is pointing at 12:00; have the valve covers off before you even set the harmonic balancer because you need to make sure that the cam lobes are pointing in the right direction. Look in my picture albums for a pic of these. Once VC are off, rotate the crank at the harmonic balancer till the tick mark is at 1:00 then look at the cam lobes. If not correct, then rotate the engine another 360 degrees and look at the cam lobes again, they should be positioned right by now. Mark the cam caps and a non-journaled part of the cam with a paint pen or nail polish. At this point, I started with taking the front cover pieces off and then the cover. I then removed the Phasers and chains and the tensioner components. Then loosened the cam caps starting at the center cap and working my way outward to each in a 3 or 4 step process until they were loose. The direction and position that they come off matters, so keep them in order and facing the right direction when you put them on a table or whatever. Take the cams out. Soak your new lash adjusters in oil for a while and then while still submerged in oil, kinda pump the plunger end so that you bleed any air out of them. Pull old one out, put new one in. Put Follower on top, when one side is done, place cam back in place and reinstall caps. Put a pair of vice grips on a non journaled part of the cam to hold it steady when you are tightening the cam caps, work from the center outward in 3 -4 steps. Don't over tighten (torque is listed somewhere on this site, forgot what it is). Do both sides. Install your tensioner guides and the tensioners, line up the colored link on the chain with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket, line up the 2 colored links on the chain with the arrow on the phaser and reinstall on cam. You may have to turn the cam slightly for the phaser to mate up properly with the cam, use the vice grips to turn the cam slightly. Do both sides, when you have the chain and phasers on, make sure that you torque the phasers properly, then pull the retaining clip on the tensioners. Rotate the engine by hand a few full revolutions and check for binding. The colored links will not line up with the dots or arrows at this point. Reinstall the reluctor ring in the proper direction and the the cover and the rest of the parts. When ready to start it, hold the gas pedal down and crank the engine for about 10 seconds, do this 4 or 5 times to build up oil pressure in the tensioners then start the truck. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
Tom
thanks for the reply , this will def help when i go to tackle this job of changing my phasers/ timing chains and lifter/ followers . Ive finally just now got all the parts i need hopefully i can start this weekend .
05-28-2015, 02:20 PM
#4
I saw you question about the harmonic balancer in the other thread, here's my answer to this and that question as I did both. The timing mark (tick mark) on the harmonic balancer is at 1:00 and the rung is pointing at 12:00; have the valve covers off before you even set the harmonic balancer because you need to make sure that the cam lobes are pointing in the right direction. Look in my picture albums for a pic of these. Once VC are off, rotate the crank at the harmonic balancer till the tick mark is at 1:00 then look at the cam lobes. If not correct, then rotate the engine another 360 degrees and look at the cam lobes again, they should be positioned right by now. Mark the cam caps and a non-journaled part of the cam with a paint pen or nail polish. At this point, I started with taking the front cover pieces off and then the cover. I then removed the Phasers and chains and the tensioner components. Then loosened the cam caps starting at the center cap and working my way outward to each in a 3 or 4 step process until they were loose. The direction and position that they come off matters, so keep them in order and facing the right direction when you put them on a table or whatever. Take the cams out. Soak your new lash adjusters in oil for a while and then while still submerged in oil, kinda pump the plunger end so that you bleed any air out of them. Pull old one out, put new one in. Put Follower on top, when one side is done, place cam back in place and reinstall caps. Put a pair of vice grips on a non journaled part of the cam to hold it steady when you are tightening the cam caps, work from the center outward in 3 -4 steps. Don't over tighten (torque is listed somewhere on this site, forgot what it is). Do both sides. Install your tensioner guides and the tensioners, line up the colored link on the chain with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket, line up the 2 colored links on the chain with the arrow on the phaser and reinstall on cam. You may have to turn the cam slightly for the phaser to mate up properly with the cam, use the vice grips to turn the cam slightly. Do both sides, when you have the chain and phasers on, make sure that you torque the phasers properly, then pull the retaining clip on the tensioners. Rotate the engine by hand a few full revolutions and check for binding. The colored links will not line up with the dots or arrows at this point. Reinstall the reluctor ring in the proper direction and the the cover and the rest of the parts. When ready to start it, hold the gas pedal down and crank the engine for about 10 seconds, do this 4 or 5 times to build up oil pressure in the tensioners then start the truck. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
Tom
1. How did you loosen the crank pulley bolt without turning the engine backwards? Impact gun?
2. Did you reinsert the bolt and use that to turn the motor to check for binding before putting everything else back together?
3. How did you keep the motor from turning when retightening the crank pulley bolt?
4.Once you had the chains on the cam phasers you torqued down the phaser bolts was the compression of the engine enough the keep the motor from turning or did you have to hold the cams?
5. I know the crank and phaser bolts are torque to yield so I ordered new ones of those. Are the cam cap bolts reusable or are they torque to yield also?
05-28-2015, 05:00 PM
#5
Senior Member
1. Impact gun to loosen the crank bolt
2. yes
3. Impact gun helped put the new crank bolt tight, then had my son hold a socket wrench at the phaser bolt to help keep the crank from turning
4 My son held a set of vice grips on a non-journaled portion of the cam to hold it in place to torque the phaser bolt. Guess I could have had him hold a socket on the crank and then the chains would have kept it from turning.
5 The cam bolts are re-useable, make sure the caps go back in the original position facing the right direction. If your caps are not marked then chances are you have a replacement head on that side because the replacement heads did not have the letters on the cam caps. They still need to go in the same place in the same direction.
Good luck
Tom
2. yes
3. Impact gun helped put the new crank bolt tight, then had my son hold a socket wrench at the phaser bolt to help keep the crank from turning
4 My son held a set of vice grips on a non-journaled portion of the cam to hold it in place to torque the phaser bolt. Guess I could have had him hold a socket on the crank and then the chains would have kept it from turning.
5 The cam bolts are re-useable, make sure the caps go back in the original position facing the right direction. If your caps are not marked then chances are you have a replacement head on that side because the replacement heads did not have the letters on the cam caps. They still need to go in the same place in the same direction.
Good luck
Tom