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Old 07-29-2012, 09:42 PM   #1
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Default How to: Remove stuck rear brake rotor

Tools needed:
- 2 metric bolts of the size- M8-1.25 You want bolts no shorter than 2" but preferably 3"+ if you can find it. Also, two corresponding nuts will help as well. this is an uncommon size, so you might want to call around before you drive to three stores like i did.
- Brake Parts Cleaner (needed to remove dust/debris from caliper and rotor)
- PB blaster to loosen up the rust bond
- old brake pad (if you are salvaging the rotor)
- a rubber hammer is helpful
- and an 8mm socket. this fit the specific bolt i had, but yours may be different
- high temp wheel bearing grease

Click the image to open in full size.

Ive seen some stuff on how to remove pads/rotors and what not, but never on this subject. This happened on my 06, but im sure this trick works for at least 04-08.

Im going to assume for the most part that you already know how to remove the caliper and pads. If not, you just remove two bolts holding the caliper on, simple as can be. Here is where the fun starts. My truck had never been driven in the snow or seen anything but a Georgia winter, so if I had this problem, anyone could.

Normally after you remove the caliper, you can just pull the rotor right off the wheel studs. But if it wont pull off with ease, its probably rusted on.

The first thing you want to do is spray some PB in the stud holes.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then you can try and hit the rotor where pointed out with a rubber hammer. If that doesnt free it up, continue.
Click the image to open in full size.

What you are going to do is take your two bolts and thread them through the caliper mounting holes.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then you want to place an old brake pad in between the new bolt and rotor. The point of this is so when you screw the bolts in, you dont damage the rotor. It also spreads the force of the bolt out over a bigger surface area.
Click the image to open in full size.

After you have done that, tighten down the bolts as shown in the picture. My method was tighten down the top one very securely, then make a couple hammer bangs. Then tighten the bottom bolt. More bangs. Tighten top... You shouldnt have to do this very much before you hear a crack, which is the rust bond breaking. If you cant get it off from just tightening the bolts, try rotating the rotor and tightening as you rotate to different sections of the rotor. I didnt need to do this, but you might depending on how bad the rust is. After you hear that pop, the rotor pulls off freely. Sorry I dont have a picture of it off, but you can probably get the gist.

To prevent this from happening again, i put some high temperature wheel bearing grease all along the face plate where the wheel studs protrude. Also i put some on the new/turned rotor where it contacts the inner axle. Just make sure you dont get any on the rotor face.
Click the image to open in full size.

After you get it off, just proceed with installation of the caliper and pads.

Hope this helps someone somewhere along the line.
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:19 PM   #2
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I use the "beat the **** out of it with a hammer" technique
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:21 PM   #3
wait. what?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allinon72 View Post
I use the "beat the **** out of it with a hammer" technique
yep, this is what everyone at my old dealership did haha
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allinon72 View Post
I use the "beat the **** out of it with a hammer" technique
if that works for you, great. i tried that first and couldnt get any results. also that shield that runs along back of the rotor made it impossible to get any good swings in from the back, at least on my truck.

I also was only using a rubber hammer because i was turning and not replacing the rotors.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:34 PM   #5
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thanks for the post i was afraid i was doing something wrong
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:38 PM   #6
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Great write up, but I've never come across a rotor that was so corroded that it wouldn't come off. I have a trusty 5lb sledge that's been a great job of it for 20 years.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:57 PM   #7
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I use PB Blaster and an 8 pound hammer. Works every time.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:16 PM   #8
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I had to back the emergency brake all the way out, then as able to pull them with a large gear puller. It would not budge until I backed off the E- brake on my 2004 fx4
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:43 PM   #9
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glad to help. This is kind of a worst case scenario fix. But yes using a sledge hammer would definitely be easier and quicker lol
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:17 AM   #10
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I always replace my rotors when I replace my pads so I don't really care for beating the **** out of a rotor to get it off. In regards to having the E-Brake shoes stuck, I usually bang the back of the plate while turning the wheel forward and reverse.
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:17 AM
 
 
 
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