How To Long tube header install
02-20-2012, 05:40 PM
#1
How To Long tube header install
I'm gonna do a write up on how to install OBX long tubes on an 04-08 F150 4x4. I haven't been able to find any other write ups on the internet so I figured this will help out alot of people.
I am doing this install in my garage on floor jacks with only hand tools so everybody should be able to do the same.
I am starting this install tomorrow morning so I will update with pics when I'm done.
Tonight I did a little prep work to make tomorrow easier. I put the front in the air, took off the front wheels and pulled the inner fenders. I sprayed every bolt and nut that I am gonna need to take off tomorrow with PB Blaster and will respray them again before I go to bed.
OBX headers
Truck is prepped and ready to go for tomorrow morning. I highly suggest doing the same thing the night before you do the install to avoid seized and broken bolts.
To take the inner fenders out you need a Phillips head screw driver, 5.5mm socket, 10mm socket and a small pry bar. Once you get in there it's pretty self explanatory how to take them out.
More to follow tomorrow.
I am doing this install in my garage on floor jacks with only hand tools so everybody should be able to do the same.
I am starting this install tomorrow morning so I will update with pics when I'm done.
Tonight I did a little prep work to make tomorrow easier. I put the front in the air, took off the front wheels and pulled the inner fenders. I sprayed every bolt and nut that I am gonna need to take off tomorrow with PB Blaster and will respray them again before I go to bed.
OBX headers
Truck is prepped and ready to go for tomorrow morning. I highly suggest doing the same thing the night before you do the install to avoid seized and broken bolts.
To take the inner fenders out you need a Phillips head screw driver, 5.5mm socket, 10mm socket and a small pry bar. Once you get in there it's pretty self explanatory how to take them out.
More to follow tomorrow.
02-20-2012, 07:18 PM
#5
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02-22-2012, 08:34 PM
#9
Sorry the install got delayed by a day because of work and family stuff to do, but the long tubes are in and sound great. Took about 5 hours because of a few crappy bolts that rounded out.
I'll do the write up in a bit once I send all the pics so I can post them.
I'll do the write up in a bit once I send all the pics so I can post them.
02-22-2012, 11:37 PM
#10
First step is to disconnect the negative on the battery. 8mm nut
Next step is to remove the Y pipe. 15mm nuts
Make sure you unplug all of the O2 sensors first, all are easy to reach except the front passenger side which is easiest to get to by going through the wheel well.
Ok when I started the 15mm bolts on the passenger side manifold to Y pipe stripped so I had to pull the sawsall out and cut the Y pipe up. Which is fine because I was planning on cutting up up anyway to sell the cats.
Next step is to take the driver side manifold off it's easiest to disconnect the steering shaft and slide it out of the way. The steering shaft and all manifold bolts are 13mm.
The front bottom bolt is the hardest to get too but unbolting the power steering reservoir and moving it made it a lot easier. 10mm bolts
Next step is unbolt the passenger side motor mount and jack up the engine. Make sure you use a piece of wood to protect the oil pan since the rear part of the oil pan is the only place to jack it up.
Then remove the starter. The 2 bottom bolts are easy to get to but the top one is a pain. To get to the top use a lot of extensions and swivels and go at it from the front of the engine. 13mm bolts and 10mm and 13mm nuts to remove the wires.
Next I dropped the A/C compressor to make accessing the manifold bolts easier. This is optional but I have always done it on all mod motors I have installed headers on. 10mm bolts
Next remove the manifold bolts and drop the manifold out. You will have to remove a couple of the studs to make this smooth (bottom front 2 and top front 1).
Next slide the driver side header in. You will have to remove all of the top studs for a smooth install. Studs are 5mm. I reused all of the stock studs and nuts and the ford gasket. I put high temp gasket maker on both sides of the gasket. This not only prevents leaks but also hold the gasket to the head for easy install. I have done this on every mod motor I have built and never had a leak.
Next install the O2 sensor extensions
Next slide the passenger side header into place. With the engine raised it slides in like butter. The front 2 lower bolts are a pain to get to but still went on fairly quick.
Had the wife get some of the lower bolts since she has smaller hands.
Next drop the engine back down and tighten up the 2 nuts.
Then reinstall the A/C compressor
Next reinstall the Starter. I didn't put the top bolt back in. I never have on any mod motor and it is never a problem. Plus when Ford changed out my transmission they didn't even tighten the top bolt.
Next swap over all of the O2 sensors. Make sure you put them in the correct holes. The back ones can not go in the front. The O2 sensors are 7/8 and you can rent the tool at auto zone.
Next install the Y pipe. It is very easy and fits perfect. Make sure you take the hanger off the cross member first.
The OBX Y pipe has 6 O2 bungs and you only need 4. You can buy a plug to seal the other 2. The plug is 15mm x 1.5. The auto parts store only had one on hand so I bought a cheap 1 wire O2 sensor for a Toyota as a temp fix.
Next connect all of the sensors.
Next reconnect the Battery negative and start up the truck and listen for leaks. If no leaks are found reinstall the inner fenders and wheels and you're done.
Next step is to remove the Y pipe. 15mm nuts
Make sure you unplug all of the O2 sensors first, all are easy to reach except the front passenger side which is easiest to get to by going through the wheel well.
Ok when I started the 15mm bolts on the passenger side manifold to Y pipe stripped so I had to pull the sawsall out and cut the Y pipe up. Which is fine because I was planning on cutting up up anyway to sell the cats.
Next step is to take the driver side manifold off it's easiest to disconnect the steering shaft and slide it out of the way. The steering shaft and all manifold bolts are 13mm.
The front bottom bolt is the hardest to get too but unbolting the power steering reservoir and moving it made it a lot easier. 10mm bolts
Next step is unbolt the passenger side motor mount and jack up the engine. Make sure you use a piece of wood to protect the oil pan since the rear part of the oil pan is the only place to jack it up.
Then remove the starter. The 2 bottom bolts are easy to get to but the top one is a pain. To get to the top use a lot of extensions and swivels and go at it from the front of the engine. 13mm bolts and 10mm and 13mm nuts to remove the wires.
Next I dropped the A/C compressor to make accessing the manifold bolts easier. This is optional but I have always done it on all mod motors I have installed headers on. 10mm bolts
Next remove the manifold bolts and drop the manifold out. You will have to remove a couple of the studs to make this smooth (bottom front 2 and top front 1).
Next slide the driver side header in. You will have to remove all of the top studs for a smooth install. Studs are 5mm. I reused all of the stock studs and nuts and the ford gasket. I put high temp gasket maker on both sides of the gasket. This not only prevents leaks but also hold the gasket to the head for easy install. I have done this on every mod motor I have built and never had a leak.
Next install the O2 sensor extensions
Next slide the passenger side header into place. With the engine raised it slides in like butter. The front 2 lower bolts are a pain to get to but still went on fairly quick.
Had the wife get some of the lower bolts since she has smaller hands.
Next drop the engine back down and tighten up the 2 nuts.
Then reinstall the A/C compressor
Next reinstall the Starter. I didn't put the top bolt back in. I never have on any mod motor and it is never a problem. Plus when Ford changed out my transmission they didn't even tighten the top bolt.
Next swap over all of the O2 sensors. Make sure you put them in the correct holes. The back ones can not go in the front. The O2 sensors are 7/8 and you can rent the tool at auto zone.
Next install the Y pipe. It is very easy and fits perfect. Make sure you take the hanger off the cross member first.
The OBX Y pipe has 6 O2 bungs and you only need 4. You can buy a plug to seal the other 2. The plug is 15mm x 1.5. The auto parts store only had one on hand so I bought a cheap 1 wire O2 sensor for a Toyota as a temp fix.
Next connect all of the sensors.
Next reconnect the Battery negative and start up the truck and listen for leaks. If no leaks are found reinstall the inner fenders and wheels and you're done.