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how do you disconnect transmission cooler lines when doing a flush?

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Old 03-08-2009, 08:36 PM   #1
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Default how do you disconnect transmission cooler lines when doing a flush?

I'm doing a tranny flush i've traced the steel lines from the passenger side of the tranny to the radiator, but am wondering how to disconnect the lines? I'm thinking its where the steel line connects to the rubber hose near the front of the truck but didn't want to assume and mess something up. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:30 PM   #2
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anybody?
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmuti13 View Post
I'm doing a tranny flush i've traced the steel lines from the passenger side of the tranny to the radiator, but am wondering how to disconnect the lines? I'm thinking its where the steel line connects to the rubber hose near the front of the truck but didn't want to assume and mess something up. Thanks in advance for your help.
You need a special tool, or the plastic 3/4 looking "moon" pieces that can be bought at any decent parts store. The kit will have several different sizes, to match fuel or transmission lines. You snap these over the lines, then slide them into the lock fitting to pull the line off of the cooler fitting.

Don't use anything else, as you do not want to butcher these fittings. The kit is cheap.

However, how are you going to truly "flush" the auto transmission? It requires a device that connects to the send/return line of the transmission cooler in order to get all the fluid out of the torque converter/transmission valve train unit.
Best to pay the 80 bucks to a transmission shop (or your local Ford dealer) and have them do it; they have the pump/filtering setup.
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Old 03-09-2009, 04:57 PM   #4
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thanks, Bucko. So this is the same type of tool that you would use for the fuel filter disconnect I'm assuming? So do you insert the tool on the metal line that connects to the bottom of the radiator?
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:45 PM   #5
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Correct. And you should buy new o-rings and replace them. They are hard, dry, do not have the pressing against the squeeze to squeeze back that, "memory!"

So, without getting a leak going, you bought the tool is buy two o-rings and freshen up the seal at the lines. You could flush the torque converter if you kept on loading quarts until you saw clean ATF. Find a bucket and start filling about 10 quarts of a mess of a job. Stop and start the engine is someone has to watch and time the oil from pumping out all of it together.
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:49 PM   #6
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Here's where spending the $70.00 to $80.00 to have it done is better than the hassle (and potential mess) you'd have trying to do it yourself.

Just don't be an idiot and dump it into the ground like my drunk weekend neighbor attempted to do. He got caught and fined $300.00, plus the cleanup fees.

He could have saved so much money, and had money to drink more...
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