How do I diagnose bad VCT solenoids?
05-17-2014, 11:13 AM
#12
Unfortunately, the other possibility is the VCT valve body gasket, which is behind the phaser. I always recommend that this gasket also be replaced during a phaser/timing repair. Unfortunately, it's not in s_Vares write up. To change it would mean taking the entire timing system apart again.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 05-17-2014 at 01:37 PM.
05-17-2014, 11:14 AM
#13
These seals are nearly always destroyed when removed. In fact, I don't even try to save them. I punch a screwdriver through them and pry them out. It's the easiest way and they are going to be destroyed anyway.
The solenoids you can find on eBay for less than $100 for the pair. Genuine Motorcraft parts. I think the seller is oemselectparts or something like that.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 05-17-2014 at 07:45 PM.
05-17-2014, 11:43 AM
#15
Yes. Passenger side is cake. For driver side, remove the intake snorkel (1 10mm bolt and it pops out of the air filter housing and driver fender well- Hint: pull up). Remove the two nuts on the front of the power steering pump reservoir bracket. The snorkel support will come off. Set it aside with the nuts and bend the bracket forward to get it clear of the bolts and then toward the driver side to get access to the VCT. Pinch the solenoid electrical connector to release it.
Punch a screwdriver through the widest part of the seal and carefully pry and twist it up and out. You will need a long T27 Torx screwdriver to get the solenoid bolt. A 6" driver is best, but I get them out with a 4". They are sold at Ace Hardware. You generally can't use a socket driver because the bolt is so close to the solenoid, it won't fit. You also DO NOT want to drop a socket into the engine. That would be bad and require a lot of disassembly.
After you R&R the solenoid, use a large socket to tap the new seal in place. The socket has to be large enough to clear the solenoid electrical connector, which goes through the center of the seal (actually slightly offset). Pay attention to the orientation of the small and large tabs on the seal and match them to the valve cover. Apply a small amount of grease or clean engine oil to both the inner and outer seal contact surfaces to make installation easier. You may have to use a large punch to carefully tap the seal fully in place. Take care not to punch through the seal.
Replace all the parts you removed and you are done.
Punch a screwdriver through the widest part of the seal and carefully pry and twist it up and out. You will need a long T27 Torx screwdriver to get the solenoid bolt. A 6" driver is best, but I get them out with a 4". They are sold at Ace Hardware. You generally can't use a socket driver because the bolt is so close to the solenoid, it won't fit. You also DO NOT want to drop a socket into the engine. That would be bad and require a lot of disassembly.
After you R&R the solenoid, use a large socket to tap the new seal in place. The socket has to be large enough to clear the solenoid electrical connector, which goes through the center of the seal (actually slightly offset). Pay attention to the orientation of the small and large tabs on the seal and match them to the valve cover. Apply a small amount of grease or clean engine oil to both the inner and outer seal contact surfaces to make installation easier. You may have to use a large punch to carefully tap the seal fully in place. Take care not to punch through the seal.
Replace all the parts you removed and you are done.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 05-17-2014 at 07:47 PM.
05-18-2014, 10:59 AM
#18
Here is the link to the updated ones that I ordered:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-2004-2008-Ford-5-4L-3V-Variable-Camshaft-Timing-Solenoid-PAIR-2-VCT-/271311025366?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2b65b4d6&vxp=mtr