RangoWA

Hi all. Great forum, I've lurked in the past and fortunately haven't needed much help. I found a trick here on how to bypass the troublesome GEM module for the driver's power window by connecting a lead from the motor to the tan/Lt blue at the switch. This has worked great and I don't miss the Auto down feature.

I have searched and looked at every link I can find with three search engines on how to do this with the passenger window and it's a no go and I can't figure it out. I hope the newer system is simpler, I understand they abandoned the GEM module, which is the Achilles heel for me. The truck has been great, got almost 18 miles per on the hwy at 140,000 miles but these power windows really pee me off. This is way too complicated for what they are.

Yes, I've gone through ALL the other steps. I've replaced the motor, inspected, cleaned the switches, checked wiring, etc. I had it working last week by switching the relay for the dome lights but it's crapped out now (again). It always goes up but has had trouble going down. The relay gets hot so it too may be shot at this point. I am certain the GEM is the real culprit behind the issue and just want to bypass it. Anyone done this, there must be a way if the driver's side is doable. Thanks!

jamie930

I had it the other way it would always go down but not up, on the drivers window. Turn out to be a worn plastic plunger that works the contacts for the windows. I swapped the plunger out with one from the rear doors. I haven't had a problem since, and if it doesn't work from the rear the driver can work the window

RangoWA

I've been studying the schematic, my brain is smoking but I think I'm finally starting to understand how the negative/positive swap works. I've got correct voltage at the driver's door switch for the passenger but at the passenger motor I get +12v on both terminals in the down mode. So maybe it is the passenger switch, I'll check it out more thoroughly in a bit. I've had it apart and it all looks good, almost never been used.

I just realized I posted this in the wrong forum, duh. It should be in the 1997-2003 section. I'm off to a good start.

Anyway, I've checked the switches with a VOM and the driver's RH switch is acting a little flakey with the ground connection. Not a lot of resistance but there is some. The passenger door is 100% but it feeds of the driver's. I'll order a new switch and post back.

Ana Halker

RangoWA please could you email me the video or visual instructions on bypassing the GEM? My husband is quite mechanically capable of following a diagram. He has been doing HVAC for 42 years. This bugger had him stumped. Being visually challenged and wearing glasses just for work is also a snag. I found it on here but can't seem to relocate it. When I did try to download it I could not. Apparently it was too big.

RangoWA

All I did was bypass the auto down function. Pressing the button a few seconds and the window goes all the way down. I did it in the door via instructions I found but it's been too long. I think I cut an orange wire and connected it to another. It was not my problem, however.

It was the switch. As it turns out it isn't complicated and I think the GEM module only effects the auto down. All the switch does is reverses the polarity to the motors. It's like taking a positive and negative lead off a dc motor and switching the connections. That's all that's going on, he can check it with a meter.

My switch contacts were a little pitted so I dressed them up but apparently that wasn't enough, it tested OK but didn't allow enough of a current flow so I spun my wheels for a loooong time!