Homebrew CAI and Functional Hood Scoop
#2
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EDIT: Ah ... I just saw your previous thread ( why'd you start two on the same topic? Sure confuded me, lol) )
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/not-usu...342601/index3/
So - you can largely ignore the below - but, not all of it, lol.
----------------
Howdy.
Just an observation - you can't just drop the MAF into any arbitrary location. That will skew the MAF Transfer function and affect closed-loop fueling.
I see you use MPT. I'd show this arrangement to them and ask them if they can write/aproximate a new transfer function for yer tuning. Heed what they tell you; it may not be what you wish to hear. Uncorrected otherwise, yer likely running lean. Bad juju.
(And no, the MAF can't magically correct for alterations like this - the MAF is a primary sensor - it relies on a specific venturi geometry matched to the specific sensor to provide accurate sampling).
Lastly - ram air has been proven not to provide any gains at any speed a normal DD can attain. Just can;t generate enough positive pressure. If it's there to help provide some fresh cold air, that's okay.
Just realize that, as a power-adder, an intake on a 2V provides no gains. All your tangible gains are coming from the tuning, and would be the same with the stock intake (which is already true cold-air, btw).
Cheers
MGD
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/not-usu...342601/index3/
So - you can largely ignore the below - but, not all of it, lol.
----------------
Howdy.
Just an observation - you can't just drop the MAF into any arbitrary location. That will skew the MAF Transfer function and affect closed-loop fueling.
I see you use MPT. I'd show this arrangement to them and ask them if they can write/aproximate a new transfer function for yer tuning. Heed what they tell you; it may not be what you wish to hear. Uncorrected otherwise, yer likely running lean. Bad juju.
(And no, the MAF can't magically correct for alterations like this - the MAF is a primary sensor - it relies on a specific venturi geometry matched to the specific sensor to provide accurate sampling).
Lastly - ram air has been proven not to provide any gains at any speed a normal DD can attain. Just can;t generate enough positive pressure. If it's there to help provide some fresh cold air, that's okay.
Just realize that, as a power-adder, an intake on a 2V provides no gains. All your tangible gains are coming from the tuning, and would be the same with the stock intake (which is already true cold-air, btw).
Cheers
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 04-30-2016 at 08:39 AM. Reason: corrected - saw it's a 4.6 2V
The following 2 users liked this post by MGD:
BillyBlurst (04-30-2016),
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#4
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Howdy - Ol' Bubber agin ...
After a second look, it looks like that ductwork would do a very good job of ADDING heat to the intake air - aluminum, and in the very best spot to absorb high underhood temperatures.
Here's a way to find out - you have a Livewire (with full datalogging of all PID's as part of the functionality) - log IAT's during yer normal stop&go routine. Do it with the scoop 'active', and repeat the routine with it blocked off.
Note any differences and post 'em up. I'm genuinely curious. Overly high IAT's kill power; the PCM pulls timing to save the motor and in extreme cases dumps in more fuel fer cooling.
At speed ( steady ~40 mph and above), there is so much air exchange in that largely open engine compartment that this issue of elevated IAT's would be moot.
Awaiting some data. Git 'er did, Cooter!
Cheers!
MGD
After a second look, it looks like that ductwork would do a very good job of ADDING heat to the intake air - aluminum, and in the very best spot to absorb high underhood temperatures.
Here's a way to find out - you have a Livewire (with full datalogging of all PID's as part of the functionality) - log IAT's during yer normal stop&go routine. Do it with the scoop 'active', and repeat the routine with it blocked off.
Note any differences and post 'em up. I'm genuinely curious. Overly high IAT's kill power; the PCM pulls timing to save the motor and in extreme cases dumps in more fuel fer cooling.
At speed ( steady ~40 mph and above), there is so much air exchange in that largely open engine compartment that this issue of elevated IAT's would be moot.
Awaiting some data. Git 'er did, Cooter!
Cheers!
MGD
The following 2 users liked this post by MGD:
BillyBlurst (04-30-2016),
Summers22 (04-30-2016)
The following users liked this post:
MGD (04-30-2016)
#6
Senior Member
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The added self-washing filter when it rains, is a really nice feature as well.
#7
Senior Member
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I will say though, your fabrication skills on the air box, and scoop itself, are actually quite nice.
The following 2 users liked this post by powerranger262:
BillyBlurst (04-30-2016),
Summers22 (04-30-2016)
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#8
Member
Thread Starter
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If some people are genuinely taking offense, just keep in mind that I haven't done this to YOUR truck. It's all good. This isn't a $60K Platinum edition. It's a $6K truck to tinker around and have some fun with. Repurposing materials is fun, and it gave me an excuse to practice some more metal fabrication. Plus I thought people would get a kick out of it.
With the preamble out of the way, thanks for the info, MGD. I did measure and place the MAF the same distance from the flex section (it's off an extra from the wreckers - my stock intake's still intact) that it would normally be in the stock setup. I know the geometry is a little different, but I figured that was the best bet. The scoop was always intended to just bring in colder air, which it is surprisingly good at. The intake is bringing in more air, or at least the same amount of air quicker with less resistance. I'll post up some data later for you guys. And the intake is also completely undo-able if it starts running like poop later. I can always throw the stock one in, or choose to drop the cash on an Airaid or something. Just figured I'd have some fun and see if this could work.
With the preamble out of the way, thanks for the info, MGD. I did measure and place the MAF the same distance from the flex section (it's off an extra from the wreckers - my stock intake's still intact) that it would normally be in the stock setup. I know the geometry is a little different, but I figured that was the best bet. The scoop was always intended to just bring in colder air, which it is surprisingly good at. The intake is bringing in more air, or at least the same amount of air quicker with less resistance. I'll post up some data later for you guys. And the intake is also completely undo-able if it starts running like poop later. I can always throw the stock one in, or choose to drop the cash on an Airaid or something. Just figured I'd have some fun and see if this could work.
Last edited by BillyBlurst; 05-01-2016 at 10:49 PM. Reason: Typo.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
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Keeps water out really well, actually. Surprising. Plus, the elbow is positioned so that if water does make it all the way through the hose, it'll run out behind the bumper without soaking the filter.
Last edited by BillyBlurst; 04-30-2016 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Typo.
#10
Member
Thread Starter