F150Torqued

@alsatropine


I am curious what "phaser issues" you are referring to in your OP? I reviewed a number of your posts throughout other threads and I don't see any mention of your having phaser issues, (but I could have easily missed something). And I note you state "it runs great".


I'm about 12-13,000 miles behind you and likewise have to say mine "runs great and pulls surprisingly good". I have great oil pressure, per an after market analogue/digital Oil Pressure gauge. (Cold idle > 65) (Full EOT idle, in gear, A/C on 23-24) (IMEDIATELY OFF IDLE, 1000 RPMs, it will already be up to 40-4 lbs) (Cruise hot 55-60 lbs) And because of these facts I have NOT considered a reman. Although I realize an unfortunate event (such as @Especial86 's) can happen to ANY engine, mine - yours - OR A REMAN at anytime.


Mine has (for about six months) been popping a P0022 DTC under a very definite - and predictable operating condition. It will run WITHOUT DTC for multiple tanks and many drive cycles with normal driving. Even standing on it entering a freeway - second gear to high RPMS (4000 - 4800) will not produce a DTC. But, heavy load (torque) at low to mid-range RPM such as pulling my boat up a long grade in 4th gear or in OD will "reliably" pop the P0022 DTC. (To date I cannot rationalize WHY heavy torque at low to moderate RPM reliably results in the driver's cam failing to staying at full advance ????? - but it definitely does. So, ??? does high torque, more robust combustions, make it 'harder' for the cam followers to push the exhaust valves OPEN???? - thus creating additional drag on the cam, forcing it back away from full advance). Oil pressure should not be the problem under these operating conditions as it is 55-60 lbs then. Of course the locking pin would be pushed back and NOT holding the cam/phaser locked at full advance. There would be nothing to hold full advance but oil pressure pushing on the phaser vanes. DOES THIS mean the phaser is failing - or is there excessive drag on Bank 2 cam bearings or something else. Won't know till I get in there, but if so why does heavy torque effect that????


Anyhow - I was wondering if you have some similar symptoms you are looking to fix or address?

Best of luck
F150Torqued

vintageman

I had a pesky P0012 code pop up after doing my phasers, I realized that I had not cleaned my VCT solenoids before I reinstalled them so I took both out, sprayed them with throttle body cleaner real good, checked the screens and then dipped them in some clean oil before I reinstalled. Been over 15,000 since and no codes yet. It may clear up your code if you clean up the solenoids. Good luck.
Tom

F150Torqued

Thanks @vintageman for sharing the worthwhile suggestion based on that good ole personal experience. It's certainly not an expensive thing to try and not too big a job on an '04. Plus, the driver's side VCT gasket has been leaking - as I foobared it when I replaced both VTC's several thousand miles ago. All those plus' and no negatives, so I'll try it. Would be wonderful if I got another 100k or so out of my phasers. I've just about gotten use to the 'tick' and occasional diesel sound. LOL

alsatropine

iTrader: (2)

F150Torqued.. I have only mentioned my cam phasers once while I've been with this forum since 2012. I posted a 45 sec video of my engine with the obvious dieselish sound. I replaced the vct solenoids with the updated ones at that time because a few other people have had luck quieting the sound with that method. For me it only helped for a little while. I have not had any of the dreaded CELs pop up as of yet (knock on wood). The only issues I've had with my truck as far as drivability are the alternator, ABS module, timing chains, and transmission ( Overdrive servo snap ring broke) which at that time, I pulled the transmission myself , bought the parts, and had a shop bench build it for me. Since I had the tranny built, the OD started slipping about 8,000 miles later, and that's when I replaced the valve body, and the Original Builder forgot to swap out the 2-3 accumulator and spring, which was causing my tranny issue. Here in the last few weeks, my speedometer has quit working and I have a guy coming to replace the stepper motor for me next week. The only reason I was talking about the Phaser issue is because Im real picky and am tired of people asking if my truck is a diesel. I just wish I had an 02 or 03 F250 with the 7.3. Lol. I've basically rebuilt this truck from the ground up since it was given to me and told it was mine if I could fix it. The dealership was only going to give my old boss $1500 worth of trade it on it cause it was in such bad shape , so he just handed me the keys and said it's yours if you can fix it. I've put countless hours into labor fixing her up the way she is now. I don't want to sell her because of the sentimental value of it ( My old boss died of a sudden heart attack at 40) and I ran his ambulance service for 10 years prior.

I don't have to swap the phasers because of a code, I just wanted people's opinion on if I should or wait. I think I'm just going to wait lol. I've basically replaced everything under this truck but the motor, and when the time comes, I'll have one waiting on me ready to drop in. I've fought tooth and nail with spark plug changes, COP changes while on vacation, random misfire issues, and wiring issues... not to mention the overdrive failing. But hey, she's a great truck and I plan on keeping her for a long time.

joe mcmillan

That's how I feel about my 2004. Many good years left and it drives and looks almost new.

F150Torqued

Lots of us 150 owners feel the same way.


@alsatropine , thanks for sharing the moving short story of your truck, and I'm sorry about your late boss. I gotta' list stuff that I HAVE NOT replaced to compete with your list - lol. At 209 K miles, I have YET to even replace the serpentine belt, alternator, water pump, idler pulleys OR ANYTHING on the front end. The tranny, rear end, and EVERYTHING in the drive train is original - and still works fine. Front wheel bearings been replaced only because the front disks have warped twice, and I did to ball joints & shocks. And I fought misfires for a long time till I learned how to do a plug change on these odd ball plugs - IE: clean the damn carbon buildup out of the heads before trying to "FORCE" new SP515's back into the plug holes with a wrench!!!


But I don't enjoy driving mine "_easy_" to keep the MIL off, so I'm going to pull, thoroughly clean (and swap) my VCT solenoids soon to see if that might eliminate - or suppress - or move the P0022 code to a P0021. If not, I guess I am going to go for the whole enchilada and do lifters, followers, phasers, all timing components, oil pump, and EVERYTHING on the engine front-end outside the timing cover.


I'll update you as I get smarter. (It would probably be good advice to not hold your breath for THAT to happen!)

cruisemissile

Good to read this thread. My 2004 is at 160k miles and ticks some but runs strong. Whole life on synthetic oil, mostly valvoline some Mobil 1, and 1-2 dealer changes with whatever synthetic Landmark Ford in Tigard put in. Recently got the high mileage synthetic valvoline. All 5w-20.

Nothing too bad has happened. I am on plug set number 3, and most of the coil over plugs have been replaced once. Some twice.

If I have large motor troubles will probably go Jasper crate motor route.

I put it into total limp mode one time in the middle of nowhere like 25 miles into dirt roadS in NE Oregon driving down a super steep slope.. Pulling the battery cable to reset the ECU saved my bacon. Another time in minus 16 temps it threw a bunch of codes, but no real damage.

So it still works great. Seats wearing out faster than motor. Should I switch to 5w-30 for the next chapter in life? I just put on new KO2s so I want 60000+ more miles like I got from my KOs

I will peek at that FPDM this week too.
Thanks to all.
Dan

vintageman

I changed a couple oil changes ago to 5w30 and personally think my truck sounds better.

F150Torqued

@vintageman and @cruisemissile


I have been running 0w40 Full Syn Mobile 1 for my last few oil changes, and I'm also convinced it just generally sounds better - although still 'ticks' when hot. However, I am going back down to 5w30 on the next change. I have an after market digital Oil Pressure gauge and hot idle pressure is better with the 40. BUT after monitoring, logging, watching cam operation and cam err on my Torque Pro App, I am convinced the cam response to the PCM's retard/advance commands is more sluggish running 0w40. When the throttle is 'fluctuated' causing a change in cam retard, there is a _significant_ bounce in CAMERR. It does settle back out to Zero, but it takes noticeably longer. I wonder if those fine mesh screens on the VCT solenoids presents just a little too much resistance to 40w oil - thus slowing down the phaser operation. AND - as I noted earlier in this thread I am getting a P0022 code under certain predictable driving conditions.


As I mentioned in post# 11, I have diagnosed/analyzed the damn thing to death - and can predictably cause it to pop a P0022. (I have set an "Alarm" function in Troque Pro, and when it pops, I get an audible alarm). So, I know EXACTLY when it happens, which is confirmed by freeze frame data. It will ALWAYS do it on one long 3/4 mile grade trying to maintain 55 mph in 4th gear.


So, I'm going to take @vintageman 's suggestion and remove / clean both VCT Solenoids this week, and go back with fresh 5w30 Full Syn Mobile 1. I plan to re-install VCTs in opposite banks. Then go see if I can make it up that damn hill without popping a P0021. If not, (if it is still P0022), then I think it must pretty certainly be time to look at Bank 2 timing stuff or see if cam bearings or something else is causing excessive drag on bank 2 cam.


Confirmation / opinions / suggestions?

vintageman

Try the clean and swap and see how it does before stressing too much on this. Good luck and hang in there brother. Let us know what you find out.

Tom