HELP please. Vct seals
10-04-2013, 06:52 PM
#21
Thanks everyone for the help. I think I have found something. I was looking in the engine bay for build dates to see if everything matched up. Well on the front of the drivers side valve cover is a sticker with a date of 10/26/06. So I'm guessing that's the build date if the valve cover. Wen down to the parts store , but when they pulled up the valve covers vct seal it was still the serviceable one. They ended up finding the style like mine, without tabs are available and should be here Monday. I'm going to try and get it out through the valve cover but if not will be removing them to change. I'm also going to take a look at the phasers if I have to pull the covers. Next question is where would the tag be on the actual engine block that would have the build date or information on how to find the build date?
good luck!
10-04-2013, 06:55 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-04-2013, 09:11 PM
#23
Devil's advocate
Pulling the valve covers? Be ready to evac and charge the A/C system and be ready to repair or replace the engine oil dipstick tube. You will damage it trying to get it out of the block. Good luck!
10-04-2013, 10:56 PM
#24
Make sure to disconnect and remove battery and computer, then remove mounting nuts for accumulator and you will barley be able to squeeze the VC out, plan to have a broken VCT solenoid tho, good thing you are replacing them
10-04-2013, 11:27 PM
#25
The lips on the seal are very hard. Also the material in the seating is metal. Take a flathead, right under the lip. Tap it with a hammer. When you get a bend in the seal take a pair of vice grips and wrench it out of there.. I replaced a buddy of mine and his seal was the same way. Drivers side is a little harder to access but done the same way.
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FordSilly (10-05-2013)
10-05-2013, 12:13 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The lips on the seal are very hard. Also the material in the seating is metal. Take a flathead, right under the lip. Tap it with a hammer. When you get a bend in the seal take a pair of vice grips and wrench it out of there.. I replaced a buddy of mine and his seal was the same way. Drivers side is a little harder to access but done the same way.
10-05-2013, 01:08 AM
#27
The lips on the seal are very hard. Also the material in the seating is metal. Take a flathead, right under the lip. Tap it with a hammer. When you get a bend in the seal take a pair of vice grips and wrench it out of there.. I replaced a buddy of mine and his seal was the same way. Drivers side is a little harder to access but done the same way.
10-05-2013, 01:21 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-07-2013, 02:54 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well, I tried and tried but cannot get the t27 driver down in there to remove the bolt on the solenoid. looks like I'm going to be removing valve covers. On a side note: I have the famous ticking, but now am thinking it is a manifold leak. anyone know when the cam phaser issue was fixed? is my October 2006 engine build date after the cam phasers were fixed? I know I have the updated valve covers so I am hoping the phasers are the newer ones. Either way, I am going to wait to replace the VCT's until I have figured out what if anything else is ticking, and then I can do it all at once.