Gixxer603

Sometimes yes sometimes it dies. It seems like the plug for the COP isnt fully engaging and it backs itself out of the COP

18_F-150_XLT_Screw

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is possible they aren't seating... But definitely re-torque the plugs....make sure the electrical connections to the cops are on good too.... I had one that wouldn't click lock in place and finally after a while got it to lock. Did you drop any cops? If so you could have damaged it internally.

quvia1

I had the same problem and took my coil out and noticed it was cracked on the back. Replaced and everything was OK again. Good luck

lariatboy

If you went to the trouble of changing all your plugs, why not change all your COPs too? They can weaken, corrode, and sometimes just quit for no reason. Not horribly expensive, easy to swap out, and at least you know you've got all new parts firing. Could also have a bad plug - when I did all of mine I had one bad plug right out of the box. Change your FPDM and fuel filter while you're at it, and yes, retorque your plugs, especially it you put anti-seize on them.

Gixxer603

To be honest I didnt change both due to cost. I wasn't expecting to change the plugs at the time and $200 was what just doing the plugs about added up to with having to buy the lisle tool

Mod (Ret.)

Unfortunately, these trucks are expensive to "tune up". Most do the spark plug change, only to find out soon down the road that the cops require replacement too. And changing out just a few is not worth it; do them all at once.

One other thing: you get what you pay for, so don't buy cheap cops, as you'll only end up buying a better quality set again. Then you should be good to go in that area for another 80 to 100K.

Gixxer603

I figured things would start needing to be replaced now.

Ryan Nolan

Suffered through the plug job, didn't replace the coils (yet), got 8 of 8 out and replaced, 05 FX4 5.4 ran great that night after the plug change, the next day and since ran horribly. Idling very rough, hard shudders at speed...worse than before I changed the plugs. Put new Motorcraft (SP515) plugs in from Rockauto. I'm considering the following:

1. Change COPs. I went ahead and sprung for the new Accels, they should be here today or tomorrow. Wish I would've done it at the same time.
2. Retorque all the plugs. Might as well with all the COPs off.

How can I tell if one of my new plugs is defective? No check engine lights. I'd love to not have to pull them out again, but it shouldn't be too bad because I put antiseize on the threads. If I do pull them out, what would indicate a defective plug? Will I be able to tell visually?

I'm first going to try to retorque plugs and replace COPs, and see where I am after that. Any other ideas?

Yes, all of the electrical connectors are plugged back in correctly.

Appreciate any help.

TheJcode

>.>

Ryan Nolan

Update to my post above: I went ahead and replaced all eight coil packs with new Accel's (#140033). Did not fix the rough idle/running poorly problem. Took it to the dealer, paid the $99 for the diagnostic, and it turns out I got a bad plug from rockauto.com that was causing misfires in the #5 cylinder. I didn't pop any check engine lights until I was on the way to the dealer (ironically), so when it did pop I stopped into O'Reilly's to read it, and got P0174. That code is for running lean in bank 2 (driver's side), which makes sense. In any case, the dealer replaced the bad plug and all is well.

Invested total of $415 for plugs/coils/tools/supplies/diagnostic and I have eight new plugs and eight new coils, and a much-improved F-150. Would have cost me $1,025 minimum to have the same work done at the dealer.

Best of luck to you all. Be careful with your plugs!