Help...All gauges went to zero...
#11
Senior Member
Do a complete test before anything, charge battery, start engine and test alternator output. Your problem could be as simple as corroded battery terminals, in which case the alternator hasn't been charging your battery. My battery lasted 7 years, tach and speedo would peg during start up, advised by dealer battery at fault, it was.
#12
Thanks for all the advice...put new battery in and things look good so far...not aware of optima batteries, went with an Interstate.
The truck has a "System Status Check" on it that shows that the charging system is ok...will continue to monitor all systems...
Again, thank you all for your input, and advice...
Terry B.
The truck has a "System Status Check" on it that shows that the charging system is ok...will continue to monitor all systems...
Again, thank you all for your input, and advice...
Terry B.
#13
Senior Member
Same thing happened to me and it was the alternator...you better hope to God that you have a warranty on the battery if it s the alternator because that's gonna be an expensive dumb move. The battery they give you has a full charge but if its not actually charging your gonna be screwed...defianatly go to an auto parts store and have a charging system check reguardless of what ur self check system says.
#14
Senior Member
Same thing happened to me and it was the alternator...you better hope to God that you have a warranty on the battery if it s the alternator because that's gonna be an expensive dumb move. The battery they give you has a full charge but if its not actually charging your gonna be screwed...defianatly go to an auto parts store and have a charging system check reguardless of what ur self check system says.
#16
Senior Member
ford and boss are both right, batteries can be drained dead and have no damage done, if caught quick evough. Alternators if overcharging will boil the acid out, overheat and melt down. If an alternator isn't charging, it will not damage a battery, the battery will loose its charge and go dead. You should do the whole job, not just half of it. Replacing battery and testing alternator for 13.8-14.2 volts with full electrical load on it seals the deal.
#17
Thanks again...watched my voltmeter slowly fall and realized that I was running off of new battery charge...replaced the alternator and all is well...
By the way, AutoZone said they could not check the alternator because of the mounting holes...hunh?, I checked the battery with motor running and had 11.5 volts so arbitrarily changed the alternator...
Thanks again...
Terry B.
By the way, AutoZone said they could not check the alternator because of the mounting holes...hunh?, I checked the battery with motor running and had 11.5 volts so arbitrarily changed the alternator...
Thanks again...
Terry B.