Help: 2007 No Crank
03-07-2015, 11:34 PM
#1
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Help: 2007 No Crank
Ok, guys, I need some serious help here. I've searched the forums for days and I'm not finding my exact problem; if I'm wrong about this, please link to the fix for me.
History:
I backed the truck into the driveway, one week later I came out to drive to work, no crank, only clicking in the fuse box
I checked the battery, charged it, and confirmed the load with a load tester. Checked and cleaned all connections from battery down through to starter. CAN jump wires at start relay location in fuse panel to kick start over. CAN NOT get codes from computer, just getting error from scan tool.
Oddities; when turning the key to the run position, the ignition switch puts 6v-8v to the starter relay, lights go out, speakers do not output sound. When I turn the key to start, the ignition switch shows output (the wire that goes the to DTR) goes up to 12v, but it does not make it to the starter relay, it stays at 6v-8v. The schematic for this truck shows that the blue/orange wire should be hot when in start on the DTR plug, but it doesn't not get anything down to it, however, we do continue to get the 6v-8v to the [85] side of the relay even when the DTR is unplugged.
We've done tons of tests, but I'm willing to redo any that we need to.
Please help, it's been weeks trying to get this truck up and running.
thank you,
Daniel
History:
I backed the truck into the driveway, one week later I came out to drive to work, no crank, only clicking in the fuse box
I checked the battery, charged it, and confirmed the load with a load tester. Checked and cleaned all connections from battery down through to starter. CAN jump wires at start relay location in fuse panel to kick start over. CAN NOT get codes from computer, just getting error from scan tool.
Oddities; when turning the key to the run position, the ignition switch puts 6v-8v to the starter relay, lights go out, speakers do not output sound. When I turn the key to start, the ignition switch shows output (the wire that goes the to DTR) goes up to 12v, but it does not make it to the starter relay, it stays at 6v-8v. The schematic for this truck shows that the blue/orange wire should be hot when in start on the DTR plug, but it doesn't not get anything down to it, however, we do continue to get the 6v-8v to the [85] side of the relay even when the DTR is unplugged.
We've done tons of tests, but I'm willing to redo any that we need to.
Please help, it's been weeks trying to get this truck up and running.
thank you,
Daniel
03-07-2015, 11:46 PM
#2
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Oh, some additional data:
4.6 liter
Automatic
F150
Checked all fuses, swapped multiple relays
4.6 liter
Automatic
F150
Checked all fuses, swapped multiple relays
Ok, guys, I need some serious help here. I've searched the forums for days and I'm not finding my exact problem; if I'm wrong about this, please link to the fix for me.
History:
I backed the truck into the driveway, one week later I came out to drive to work, no crank, only clicking in the fuse box
I checked the battery, charged it, and confirmed the load with a load tester. Checked and cleaned all connections from battery down through to starter. CAN jump wires at start relay location in fuse panel to kick start over. CAN NOT get codes from computer, just getting error from scan tool.
Oddities; when turning the key to the run position, the ignition switch puts 6v-8v to the starter relay, lights go out, speakers do not output sound. When I turn the key to start, the ignition switch shows output (the wire that goes the to DTR) goes up to 12v, but it does not make it to the starter relay, it stays at 6v-8v. The schematic for this truck shows that the blue/orange wire should be hot when in start on the DTR plug, but it doesn't not get anything down to it, however, we do continue to get the 6v-8v to the [85] side of the relay even when the DTR is unplugged.
We've done tons of tests, but I'm willing to redo any that we need to.
Please help, it's been weeks trying to get this truck up and running.
thank you,
Daniel
History:
I backed the truck into the driveway, one week later I came out to drive to work, no crank, only clicking in the fuse box
I checked the battery, charged it, and confirmed the load with a load tester. Checked and cleaned all connections from battery down through to starter. CAN jump wires at start relay location in fuse panel to kick start over. CAN NOT get codes from computer, just getting error from scan tool.
Oddities; when turning the key to the run position, the ignition switch puts 6v-8v to the starter relay, lights go out, speakers do not output sound. When I turn the key to start, the ignition switch shows output (the wire that goes the to DTR) goes up to 12v, but it does not make it to the starter relay, it stays at 6v-8v. The schematic for this truck shows that the blue/orange wire should be hot when in start on the DTR plug, but it doesn't not get anything down to it, however, we do continue to get the 6v-8v to the [85] side of the relay even when the DTR is unplugged.
We've done tons of tests, but I'm willing to redo any that we need to.
Please help, it's been weeks trying to get this truck up and running.
thank you,
Daniel
Last edited by Pantera61; 03-08-2015 at 12:17 AM.
03-08-2015, 09:22 AM
#3
Senior Member
Could it be acting like this?...
The activating part of the relay is 85 and 86. 86 gets its signal from the key then DTR 12V+. The 85 gets a ground signal from the PCM. If the PCM detects a problem it won't provide a ground signal to 85.
30 terminal is live 12V+ all the time. 87 terminals goes straight to the starter. These two circuits 30/87 do all the heavy lifting.
Does it start when you crank it manually?
Check the two big connectors for corrosion on the outside of the frame rail under the drivers seat behind a plastic panel. It sounds impossible that the problem could be there but the PCM needs input from some of those wires in order to provide a ground to 85 on the starter relay.
The activating part of the relay is 85 and 86. 86 gets its signal from the key then DTR 12V+. The 85 gets a ground signal from the PCM. If the PCM detects a problem it won't provide a ground signal to 85.
30 terminal is live 12V+ all the time. 87 terminals goes straight to the starter. These two circuits 30/87 do all the heavy lifting.
Does it start when you crank it manually?
Check the two big connectors for corrosion on the outside of the frame rail under the drivers seat behind a plastic panel. It sounds impossible that the problem could be there but the PCM needs input from some of those wires in order to provide a ground to 85 on the starter relay.
Last edited by jdinner; 03-08-2015 at 09:26 AM. Reason: adding stuff
03-08-2015, 05:38 PM
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Actually, just found the problem, I noticed a frayed ground strap and then some more wires.
A squirrel got down in there and chewed the harness, the ground strap, and the windshield washer sprayer tube. I'll have to remove the battery, the battery box and the dead squirrel and see what other damage that bushy-tailed rat did.
A squirrel got down in there and chewed the harness, the ground strap, and the windshield washer sprayer tube. I'll have to remove the battery, the battery box and the dead squirrel and see what other damage that bushy-tailed rat did.
03-08-2015, 06:15 PM
#5
Senior Member
Actually, just found the problem, I noticed a frayed ground strap and then some more wires.
A squirrel got down in there and chewed the harness, the ground strap, and the windshield washer sprayer tube. I'll have to remove the battery, the battery box and the dead squirrel and see what other damage that bushy-tailed rat did.
A squirrel got down in there and chewed the harness, the ground strap, and the windshield washer sprayer tube. I'll have to remove the battery, the battery box and the dead squirrel and see what other damage that bushy-tailed rat did.
Last edited by jdinner; 03-09-2015 at 10:21 PM.
03-08-2015, 07:42 PM
#6
Senior Member
At least the little bastard is dead, one less problem.