04LariatScrew4x4

I was hoping there might be someone on this board who could help me. I found a truck at a dealership in Dallas, TX that happens to use No Hassle pricing. If you want to know the dealership send me a PM and we can go from there. My Question is this:
Can I get the price any lower? And if so what are my best strategies?

I really need the help and appreciate the time.

P.S. Its an 04 Screw Lariat 4x4 with 106k miles.

Mod (Ret.)

O.K., who's the Dealership? I bought my 2005 STX from Lewisville Ford (off of 35w). I got a very good deal about 5 months ago. Great folks.

NHSD

In my experience there is no such thing as "no hassle pricing". That is what Saturn dealers try to say. Maybe they won't blatantly lower the price, but they WILL negotiate a trade in if you have one, hell even if it is a non-working junker. If you don't have anything to trade in, then you need to start talking freebies. Spray-in bedliners, tonneau cover, whatever things you would be buying later.

djbruce26

FWIW I had to do the same. My dealership didn't budge on purchase price but they were plenty happy to work with me on Gap, Certification, and Trade-In value...

Remember, the more money you are making them, the more they will work with you in profit. The more profitable buyers are those who require more for trade in but get additional extras. A bank charges about $150-200 for gap coverage but dealerships get to charge essentially whatever price they want (can be updwards of $1,000 on new vehicles even though they are only paying $200). All of that pure profit up front makes them more than the profit they get for you buying at list price and financing it... the salesmen get more commission and the dealership gets more profit so trust me, they are more than happy to work with you on the other things so long as you are considering the "extras" that they can use to still make more profit today.

firstimef150

About 6 months ago i too was looking around for an f150 here in the dallas area. I tried things like ebay,craigslist(dealership postings mainly), and like autotrader.com. I ended up narrowing down my search and did find a few trucks with your criteria. I did find some down as low as 11 and 13 grand. Even after talking to a few of the dealerships i was able to either add on a few things or lower the price a bit. I ended up finding a 05 scab 5.4 2wd with around 36000 miles for about 13100. It really just takes time doing some reasearch and going around to a few places talking to people to find the best deal.

04LariatScrew4x4

Thanks everyone for all of your help. My major problem is my location. The truck I am trying to purchase has everything that I want and then some on it and I really want the truck. I live in Missouri however and can not find anything withing a 200 mile radius. I don't have much bargaining power with the dealer and I am not looking to trade. I am having to sacrifice mileage on the truck to get everything that I want. My plan was to fly or drive down to Dallas on Saturday and purchase the truck. I have all my financing in order from my local bank and they are ready to cut me a check. The problem I am running into is leverage. Most of the paperwork has been completed between the lender and the dealer but the bank wants to know purchase price before I right the check. I just don't know what to do and even at the price that they currently have it at the truck is a steal in my opinion. I appreciate all the advice and I hope you guys can help me out further.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...&seller_type=d

wxmcpo

Actually not a bad price at all. If you really like the truck and you really want the truck I say go for it. I just bought a 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 last night and the way my bank wrote the loan check is they put a not to exceed value on the check, but I actually write the amount of the check for any value up to, but not over the not to exceed amount.

Mod (Ret.)

These statements are what dealers feed on, and they can smell it a mile (or several hundred in your case of location) away. You cannot "deal" on a truck once you have made those above (highlighted) decisions. The dealer knows this now, and they won't budge. The only way out is to back off this deal and continue your search.
Whenever you buy a vehicle, it is a two step process; you first "look" for the vehicle, haggle your best price (including a trade-in), and only then begin the financing process. The dealer gets a kickback on financing as well; they will work with the banks to get the highest intrest rate your willing to go. For this reason, Never, I repeat Never tell them what monthy payment you can afford. If you do, they will make that fit, but it will be a long term loan (5 to 7 year loan on new cars; 2 to 5 years on used). The best way to deal is to have your financing done before you go vehicle shopping. Visit your bank or financial institution, and get "pre-qualified" for an amount your wanting to pay. In your case, a bank will (based on your credit score) pre-qualify you for perhaps 13 to 14K on a 2005 to 2008 used truck, using the trucks title as their security. Now you can go and shop for the best deal knowing you have a bank that's prepared to loan you the money. You can use this advantage to haggle on the price, as it's like paying cash for the vehicle.

Mod (Ret.)

These statements are what dealers feed on, and they can smell it a mile (or several hundred in your case of location) away. You cannot "deal" on a truck once you have made those above (highlighted) decisions. The dealer knows this now, and they won't budge. The only way out is to back off this deal and continue your search.
Whenever you buy a vehicle, it is a two step process; you first "look" for the vehicle, haggle your best price (including a trade-in), and only then begin the financing process. The dealer gets a kickback on financing as well; they will work with the banks to get the highest intrest rate your willing to go. For this reason, Never, I repeat Never tell them what monthy payment you can afford. If you do, they will make that fit, but it will be a long term loan (5 to 7 year loan on new cars; 2 to 5 years on used). The best way to deal is to have your financing done before you go vehicle shopping. Visit your bank or financial institution, and get "pre-qualified" for an amount your wanting to pay. In your case, a bank will (based on your credit score) pre-qualify you for perhaps 13 to 14K on a 2005 to 2008 used truck, using the trucks title as their security. Now you can go and shop for the best deal knowing you have a bank that's prepared to loan you the money. You can use this advantage to haggle on the price, as it's like paying cash for the vehicle.

Mod (Ret.)

By the way, just trying to help you.