Haven't been able to nail this down
#11
#13
Thanks for the all information! I will get the O2 addressed. Do you think that a bad O2 could be causing the shudder?
I do not have have a solid grasp of the trucks repair history as I am not the original owner. I can tell you everything that I have done to the truck since I purchased it and can tell you what the receipts in the glove compartment say but other than that is there really any other way to know? Will a Ford dealership willingly hand over the history?
PS- I know there are no wires, I misspoke. I was really big into imports for a long time and sometimes those things just stick in my mind. I have a REALLY solid understanding of most Honda's but when it comes to Ford I am still doing my best to grasp it all.
Thanks again
I do not have have a solid grasp of the trucks repair history as I am not the original owner. I can tell you everything that I have done to the truck since I purchased it and can tell you what the receipts in the glove compartment say but other than that is there really any other way to know? Will a Ford dealership willingly hand over the history?
PS- I know there are no wires, I misspoke. I was really big into imports for a long time and sometimes those things just stick in my mind. I have a REALLY solid understanding of most Honda's but when it comes to Ford I am still doing my best to grasp it all.
Thanks again
That's the spirit!
Well, it is indeed possible - say the misbehaving O2 is causing the truck to run leaner than normal. At the points of highest load - towing, climbing a hill, etc, this may then induce a misfire, ergo - shudder.
The corollary is, this failing O2 may be the first indication that plug misfires (on that bank) are starting to dump raw fuel downstream, thereby pekkering the O2.
Thanks to [MENTION=175781]lewissa81[/MENTION] fer jogging my mind in that direction.
best of luck
MGD
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JsHwrdul (05-02-2014)
#14
Thanks, I will address this issue ASAP! I have been putting it off for too long already and trying to do other things to remedy the issue than just replacing them, AKA being a little lazy.
Are the motorcraft brand necessary? Or will another brand do the job? I always try to stick to motorcraft everything. I did notice that Rock Auto offers 2 upstream O2 sensors, one states "gray plug", so I'm assuming there were two different options and I should make sure the plug color before replacement? Or is that just a snafu on their website?
Are the motorcraft brand necessary? Or will another brand do the job? I always try to stick to motorcraft everything. I did notice that Rock Auto offers 2 upstream O2 sensors, one states "gray plug", so I'm assuming there were two different options and I should make sure the plug color before replacement? Or is that just a snafu on their website?
#15
Thanks, I will address this issue ASAP! I have been putting it off for too long already and trying to do other things to remedy the issue than just replacing them, AKA being a little lazy.
Are the motorcraft brand necessary? Or will another brand do the job? I always try to stick to motorcraft everything. I did notice that Rock Auto offers 2 upstream O2 sensors, one states "gray plug", so I'm assuming there were two different options and I should make sure the plug color before replacement? Or is that just a snafu on their website?
Are the motorcraft brand necessary? Or will another brand do the job? I always try to stick to motorcraft everything. I did notice that Rock Auto offers 2 upstream O2 sensors, one states "gray plug", so I'm assuming there were two different options and I should make sure the plug color before replacement? Or is that just a snafu on their website?
Well, Bosch will work in a pinch. But if they are close to being the same price, I'd stick with MC for the reasons given above. No other brand but those two, though.
The sensors and connectors are the same (they are all 4-wire devices for our trucks) - it's cable length that is the differentiator - fronts and backs differ in cable length, as do 4x2 versus 4x4 trucks. My front spares are 8" from end of plug to O2 sensor body for a 4x4. Longer is okay - but no shorter.
good luck
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 05-01-2014 at 05:07 PM.
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JsHwrdul (05-02-2014)
#16
with mine, that was not the case, it was predicable in the sense of you knew it was going to happen, but it picked the speed, rpm range,, etc etc. some times it ran fine, some times like sh*t. changed the packs and now, like new!
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JsHwrdul (05-02-2014)
#17
MGD- I plan on replacing the O2 sensors on my day off tomorrow and in doing a little looking around an a little reading online it appears that the driver, upper O2 is a pain in the butt to change. Any tips for making it a little easier on me?
farmford- if replacing the O2 sensor doesn't fix the issue I will take a peak there next. Did you replace all COP or just one that was misfiring? Were you getting a CEL before replacing?
farmford- if replacing the O2 sensor doesn't fix the issue I will take a peak there next. Did you replace all COP or just one that was misfiring? Were you getting a CEL before replacing?
#18
MGD- I plan on replacing the O2 sensors on my day off tomorrow and in doing a little looking around an a little reading online it appears that the driver, upper O2 is a pain in the butt to change. Any tips for making it a little easier on me?
farmford- if replacing the O2 sensor doesn't fix the issue I will take a peak there next. Did you replace all COP or just one that was misfiring? Were you getting a CEL before replacing?
farmford- if replacing the O2 sensor doesn't fix the issue I will take a peak there next. Did you replace all COP or just one that was misfiring? Were you getting a CEL before replacing?
For me it's always the passenger side that's a pain in the patottie, lol.
The correct tool helps:
And removing the wheel and inner wheel well liner helps as well. Spray penetrant on the threads several hours ( or overnite ) to help with removal. Long ratcheted breaker bar and a lot of patience. It is no fun, I'll fully admit.
As fer the COp's - as I stated previously, the pending codes will indicate which cylinder(s) are misfiring. Once that is known, simply move the COP(s) to a different ( good ) cylinder. If the code follows, it's the COP, If it does not, it's the plug.
This is prefereble to simple blind shotgunning, and you WILL be pissed if it turns out to be plugs, lol.
Similar symptoms do NOT always mean similar causes.
My bet it's the plug.
good luck!
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JsHwrdul (05-05-2014)
#19
My plan was to get these changed out Saturday... long story short my "hook up" at the local parts store came up short and told me they carried Motorcraft and only had Bosch. I've got the right parts on order and they should be here in the next day or two. I plan on getting this fixed within the next few days. I appreciate all the input and will definitely be sure to ask if I have any additional questions!
#20
OK, so I finally got some time to get to the O2 sensors. All CEL are clear and the hesitation is FAR less noticeable but I did notice it for the first time yesterday.
Ideas?
COP? Any way to test, again no CEL so I'm unsure where it could be.
MGD- Biggest question, could this be a transmission issue at all? I had my transmission rebuilt just under a year ago and if it is transmission issue I want to make sure it is addressed before the warranty expires.
Ideas?
COP? Any way to test, again no CEL so I'm unsure where it could be.
MGD- Biggest question, could this be a transmission issue at all? I had my transmission rebuilt just under a year ago and if it is transmission issue I want to make sure it is addressed before the warranty expires.