technokami

So the screw has been drilled out and the throttle body is cleaned, but now its pouring out so I'm on hold for a bit. While I was pulling the throttle body this morning I noticed the EGR valve is in pretty rough shape. That couldn't have anything to do with it right?

*update*
So the throttle body is back on however the CEL from the misaligned TPS still hasn't gone away. So, tomorrow I will take it to partsource and see if anything new has decided to break. Interesting thing is with the new sensor, it doesn't shift hard when hot anymore only when cold.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Cold hard shifting is somewhat normal.. The fluid is more viscous when cold, and can cause increased shift pressures.. If it shifts smooth consistently while hot, then your good... Always warm up your tranny and engine, even on a hot day. Give the truck a good minute or 2 to get it hear cycled at least..

Did you try a battery reset to clear that code yet? It might just be stored if you fixed the misalignment in the TPS..

The EGR should only open while cruising and not affect idle.. If it is stuck open, then it could definitely affect idle, but will usually through a code..

technokami

I was just worried because it started after doing a fluid drain and fill cycle. It never did it before unless it was really really cold out. I guess its just the effect the new fluid had on the transmission.

I'm going to check the codes tonight, but I'm sure its just the stored codes for the TPS. Doesn't hurt to confirm it anyways.

I only mentioned the EGR because its appears to be mostly rust held together with some plastic . I was pretty sure it would throw a code if it was faulty but wanted to check.

At least after cleaning the throttle body the idle is smooth again. It was this weird varnish that built up this time, not carbon. I'm going to have to keep an eye on it.

Thanks for all the help

technokami

Just a quick update. It still shifts late/hard on the 1-2 shift. After some more research it appears that similar symptoms are caused by a worn 1-2 accumulator. Is it worth trying to replace myself or should I take it to a transmission place?

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

I believe that accumulator is easy to access, but I don't have any first hand experience with it.. Be well prepared before you decide to take that valve body out.. Research the J-Mod for the 4R75E, it is basically widening orifices in the valve body for firmer, crisper shifts. Some guys even change the springs in the accumulator too..

technokami

I have found very little info on the 04-08 transmissions but a broken 1-2 spring was very common in the 97-03 trucks. It looks like I can access the 1-2 accumulator without removing the valve body, so that will be my first step. No point in tearing it down more than I have to. I'll let you know how it goes.

Is the 4R70E 1-2 accumulator the same as the 4R70W?

technokami

Quick update:

I have dropped the valve body and installed the Sonnax AODE-1 SureCure kit along with new gaskets, 1-2 accumulator and 2-3 accumulator. Now I'm just waiting on the dealership to open to get a new OD servo slip ring before I put it all back together. Hopefully the new and upgraded parts plus the now clean valve body will fix it.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

That's great!
How dirty was your VB? Was there anything obvious as far as damage or debris? Any pics?
How much was the the sure cure kit, accumulators and slip ring?
I hope this fixes your 1-2 shifts up once and for all.

technokami

The valve body was surprisingly clean. There was only silt, no major metal particles. The valve body and its original components look brand new. Only one spot on the bottom side had a large deposit of silt and I think it was contributing to the issue. There was also a small section missing from one of the gaskets that might have been part of the issue too.

All in, I installed a Sonnax SureCure kit which was $160.00, 1-2 accumulator piston which was $10, 2-3 accumulator piston which was $10, new valve body gaskets for $5, filter and a OD servo piston and slip ring for $15. So just over $200 in parts.

I didn't take too many photos as my hands were covered in ATF, but I will post what I have later.

I have done a few test drives and all seems well. It shifts a little firmer now which is nice and there is no sign of the hard 1-2 shift. Not to mention I now have these neat little aluminum bits that were replaced by the kit.

One thing to note if anyone else is going to do this; I didn't quite get the EPC solenoid connected first try so it went into fail safe mode. All it needed was the connector reseated and it is now fine.

Now all I need to do is finish my wiring and replace the FPDM. I'll update in a couple days with my observations. Thanks for all your help

screamineagle

Did I read this correctly? You said "silt" was in your trans. Where i come from silt is basically sand. I hope "silt" in your geographical area is a substance on the less abrasive side lol