Glittery oil after service
07-02-2016, 07:23 PM
#11
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Let us know what you find when you get it opened up. Good luck.
07-04-2016, 01:10 AM
#12
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I did the 5.4 engine removal today, as far as engine removal goes its really not bad at all. This is my first time pulling a 5.4. Chains on the 2 bolts that hold the trans dipstick tube and the a 18mm bolt that holds the power steer res on worked well. Tomorrow I'm going to put it on the engine stand. The oil I pulled from it didn't look bad until I put a led light to it and noticed more very very small metallic particles. The only bolt that is a PITA is the top starter bolt. I rigged up a lot of wobble extension and swivel for that.
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
07-04-2016, 07:32 AM
#13
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Sounds like you know your way around an engine and have the tools for the job. How you going to decide if they're okay or not? If they're toast I guess you'll be able to see that, but otherwise I think you'll need to use plasti-gage to check your clearances. Let us know what you find. Good luck.
07-04-2016, 10:00 AM
#14
Originally Posted by RCFX4x4
I did the 5.4 engine removal today, as far as engine removal goes its really not bad at all. This is my first time pulling a 5.4. Chains on the 2 bolts that hold the trans dipstick tube and the a 18mm bolt that holds the power steer res on worked well. Tomorrow I'm going to put it on the engine stand. The oil I pulled from it didn't look bad until I put a led light to it and noticed more very very small metallic particles. The only bolt that is a PITA is the top starter bolt. I rigged up a lot of wobble extension and swivel for that.
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
I just did this on mine in December after I had a valve drop on cylinder 3, which burnt a hole into the piston.. I found the valve stem in my intake manifold which was thankfully aluminum (2.3 whipple supercharger kit)..
Cause of death: seized lash adjuster, that broke in half, and knocked the valve stem off the cam follower.. Lash adjusters should be replaced every 180-200k miles, at which point you really should just service the whole head including phasers and timing set..
Metal flakes either from timing cover wear or not have likely invaded the lash adjusters and vct valve body and oil cooler if you have one.
At the end of the day just add up the time vs money spent, and you will realize that you are not going to have a more cost effective approach than a reman..
07-04-2016, 12:25 PM
#15
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Would you tell us what they want for the reman , jasper wants over 5k
I did the 5.4 engine removal today, as far as engine removal goes its really not bad at all. This is my first time pulling a 5.4. Chains on the 2 bolts that hold the trans dipstick tube and the a 18mm bolt that holds the power steer res on worked well. Tomorrow I'm going to put it on the engine stand. The oil I pulled from it didn't look bad until I put a led light to it and noticed more very very small metallic particles. The only bolt that is a PITA is the top starter bolt. I rigged up a lot of wobble extension and swivel for that.
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
I found a really good option as far as rebuild goes, Dahmer offers a long block with solenoids ready to go for a very reasonable price with a 3 year warranty too. I'm going to spin the rods and mains out tomorrow and decide..
so I'm just shopping for the future .
07-04-2016, 12:38 PM
#16
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Honestly since the motors out, I highly recommend a reman at the very least. A full replacement of wear item accessories like the water pump, starter, coolant crossover/bypass, oil dip stick tube, power steering pump and exhaust manifolds (short tube headers) is also highly recommended.. For around $3000-3500 depending on where you buy it, you just can't go wrong with a fresh start, on a fresh motor..
I just did this on mine in December after I had a valve drop on cylinder 3, which burnt a hole into the piston.. I found the valve stem in my intake manifold which was thankfully aluminum (2.3 whipple supercharger kit)..
Cause of death: seized lash adjuster, that broke in half, and knocked the valve stem off the cam follower.. Lash adjusters should be replaced every 180-200k miles, at which point you really should just service the whole head including phasers and timing set..
Metal flakes either from timing cover wear or not have likely invaded the lash adjusters and vct valve body and oil cooler if you have one.
At the end of the day just add up the time vs money spent, and you will realize that you are not going to have a more cost effective approach than a reman..
I just did this on mine in December after I had a valve drop on cylinder 3, which burnt a hole into the piston.. I found the valve stem in my intake manifold which was thankfully aluminum (2.3 whipple supercharger kit)..
Cause of death: seized lash adjuster, that broke in half, and knocked the valve stem off the cam follower.. Lash adjusters should be replaced every 180-200k miles, at which point you really should just service the whole head including phasers and timing set..
Metal flakes either from timing cover wear or not have likely invaded the lash adjusters and vct valve body and oil cooler if you have one.
At the end of the day just add up the time vs money spent, and you will realize that you are not going to have a more cost effective approach than a reman..
Last edited by RCFX4x4; 07-04-2016 at 12:44 PM.
07-04-2016, 04:04 PM
#17
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Well I just put a lot of new parts on this engine so if the crank is still okay and the pistons and rings look good I might just do a bottom end and check the cams and run it till it really scatters. I have a core 5.4 thats total junk sitting around the shop I'm going to send in if I get a reman and keep this one. My buddy said he isnt afraid to throw bearings at it and roll the dice for $1500 so I might sell it to him.
The Dahmer reman I'm looking it as $3000, comes with 3 year no question warranty on all the parts its shipped with. http://www.autozone.com/powertrain/e...?checkfit=true I get a lot of discount because our company does high volume to auto zone. My rep said it comes with new timing, VCT, pretty much anything under a cover is there.
The Dahmer reman I'm looking it as $3000, comes with 3 year no question warranty on all the parts its shipped with. http://www.autozone.com/powertrain/e...?checkfit=true I get a lot of discount because our company does high volume to auto zone. My rep said it comes with new timing, VCT, pretty much anything under a cover is there.
