ROBinGa

I am about to tackle the front rotor and brake pad change on my 2004 Lariat RWD. I just changed the rear rotors and pads two days ago and plan to do the front over the weekend. Rears went very easy and uneventful. I am changing out the rotor/hub with AC Delco rotors I bought. Am not planning on converting to the two piece hub and rotor -staying original. So I've read up on it and watched a couple YouTube videos showing the procedure. In the video I've seen the guy explains that he will pry off the rotor then cuts to what's obviously a later shot where he easily pulls the rotor off the spindle. I suspect it's more difficult than just wiggling it off. Is there any if you with experience on this job with tips of getting the rotor/hub off? That's the only thing I'm concerned about and want to prepare if I need any special tools. I have new spindle nuts and Wagner pads with all new hardware for the pad change. Thanks for any advice you can share.

SCREWDRIVER

A hammer might help. If it doesn't just slide off, beat the **** out of it around the edges...it'll go

Mulestang

Mine came off with a few taps from a heavy rubber mallet. I did clean up the spindles with some scotchbrite and PB blaster, followed by a shot of brake cleaner. Finally, I added a very light coat of anti seize to the spindle before putting the new hub on.

Martian

+2 on the rubber mallet. Don't use a hammer. Just get a mallet and give it a few good smacks on the face. I'd be surprised if it took more than two swings.

044x4F150

The fronts are way easier than the rears...TRUST! If you did the rears by yourself then you will not have as much issues. Keep us updated!

ROBinGa

Thanks guys will report over weekend when completed. Oh and I have a torque wrench that only goes 150 so I'm planning on using breaker bar and a 3 foot piece of iron pipe to try and tighten that spindle nut on top of that 150 I can measure to get the close to 300 followers the spec calls for. How'd you guys do it?

Rick's 06

Just find a 100 pound kid to stand on your 3 foot pipe. Haha.

weadjust

Torque = Force x Distance

300 torque desired/185 lbs (me) = 1.62
1.62 x 12 inches = 19.44 inches
Mark a line on your cheater bar at 19.44 inches and the nut should be close to spec supporting all my body weight standing on the line a 19.44 inches.

You will have to figure your on distance unless you weigh 185 lbs.

nrivera04

I had a little trouble with one side of mine. Ended up having to thread nut in through the bracket holes to put pressure on the rotor and hit it several times with a BFH. Not that I'm wishing anythin bad on you, just possibly could happen. My torque wrench only goes up to 250, so 250 it was.

PapaClint

BFH, patience, and some wd40.

My passenger side hub was rust welded on, I hit from the backside with a steel hammer while another person continuously turned the hub... took about 20-30min of knocking the crap out of it. The other side came off with ease... but the passenger side was a pita. I also did my struts at the same time, they seemed fine but had 160k miles. After I pulled the struts off I was glad I did, they were completely shot.