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Front brake caliper change

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Old 11-19-2015, 06:23 PM
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Default Front brake caliper change

I have to change front passenger caliper and will be picking up new part from auto store. It's quite a drive to get new one which has a $50 core charge so I want to take core with me on first trip. My question is can I clamp the brake hose by putting some soft hose on the ends of my long tipped vice grip pliers to serve as a clamp without damaging the brake hose while I go pick up the new part? I've seen both opinions on it's ok to do and others say it may damage the line by clamping it shut. What to my Ford F-150 guys say?
Old 11-19-2015, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBinGa
I have to change front passenger caliper and will be picking up new part from auto store. It's quite a drive to get new one which has a $50 core charge so I want to take core with me on first trip. My question is can I clamp the brake hose by putting some soft hose on the ends of my long tipped vice grip pliers to serve as a clamp without damaging the brake hose while I go pick up the new part? I've seen both opinions on it's ok to do and others say it may damage the line by clamping it shut. What to my Ford F-150 guys say?


do it the right way.. pick the part up, replace it and either take old one back same day or do it later that week
Old 11-19-2015, 07:59 PM
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I personally wouldn't do that, I would just make the trip again and turn in the core afterwards. Hell, it really doesn't take too long to change out the caliper and bleed the brakes, any chance you can do the caliper change in the auto parts parking lot? Is the truck drivable and safe to drive there? Take a buddy to help bleed the brakes, it would make it go faster.
Old 11-19-2015, 08:46 PM
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Truck is not drivable. The caliper that is factory had one of the pistons to crack and I smelled a burning smell after a quick errand today. I traced to front passenger wheel area and took off tire. I could barely get the caliper off because the one piston would not retract even with usual prying methods. Once I did get it off that piston is shot so caliper needs replacing. I can replace the caliper and then take back the core as suggested. It won't be convenient or most efficient way but wanted to hear this type advice. I've already prepaid for the part with in store pickup and core was part of price, so when I take it back on second trip they will credit me back the $50. Thanks again
Old 11-19-2015, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBinGa
Truck is not drivable. The caliper that is factory had one of the pistons to crack and I smelled a burning smell after a quick errand today. I traced to front passenger wheel area and took off tire. I could barely get the caliper off because the one piston would not retract even with usual prying methods. Once I did get it off that piston is shot so caliper needs replacing. I can replace the caliper and then take back the core as suggested. It won't be convenient or most efficient way but wanted to hear this type advice. I've already prepaid for the part with in store pickup and core was part of price, so when I take it back on second trip they will credit me back the $50. Thanks again
I just had to replace my front right, as it was sticking, and eventually the piston cracked
Old 11-19-2015, 09:03 PM
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Did you use a C clamp to compress the piston or just use a pry bar? I use a C clamp and once the piston is compressed enough to pull the caliper off, I leave the back brake disk in place and finish pressing the pistons back all the way in.
Old 11-19-2015, 09:13 PM
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Vintageman, the problem was that one of the Pistons would not retract at all and it was binding to the pad and rotor. I finally was able to move it just enough so I could get caliper off. Then on inspection it had stared to crack around its rim and also was stuck in an extended position. When I do a pad change I do use large c clamp with a pad in place to press in the Pistons. But this one piston is shot and wouldn't move easily at all. It cracked and the material reminds me of a ceramic crock. Very brittle and grainy inside. That one piston had made the brake pad stay in contact and thank goodness I didn't drive a long distance because it heated up pretty good and I'm sure brake fluid is toast. I plan to do a complete flush one new caliper is replaced. Probably should replace the other front caliper too but may postpone that for another week

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Old 11-19-2015, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vintageman
Did you use a C clamp to compress the piston or just use a pry bar? I use a C clamp and once the piston is compressed enough to pull the caliper off, I leave the back brake disk in place and finish pressing the pistons back all the way in.

you are correct, one of the best/cheapest ways make sure to always use a break pad with a c clamp
Old 11-19-2015, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBinGa
I have to change front passenger caliper and will be picking up new part from auto store. It's quite a drive to get new one which has a $50 core charge so I want to take core with me on first trip. My question is can I clamp the brake hose by putting some soft hose on the ends of my long tipped vice grip pliers to serve as a clamp without damaging the brake hose while I go pick up the new part? I've seen both opinions on it's ok to do and others say it may damage the line by clamping it shut. What to my Ford F-150 guys say?
It would be a good ide to change the fluid and you will have to bleed the brakes anyway, so just put the end of the hose in a can or something to catch the fluid that leaks out. I've put vise grips on the hose before, but I probably wouldn't do it now.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:36 PM
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^^ I agree with jkenprice. You're going to have to bleed the brakes no matter if you immediately put the new caliper on, or if you let all the brake fluid drain out while you go to the store. There is no advantage of clamping the soft like, or otherwise preventing the brake fluid from leaking out. Put it in a 20 oz soda bottle and let it drip while you go to the store 1 time with your cores in hand.


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