Front 4x4 hub service.
12-26-2015, 06:04 PM
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Front 4x4 hub service.
I've searched for info regarding a front hub service on our trucks but have not found anything other than replacement threads. I thought that I'd take a minute and share my service procedure as it has been working since 2010 when I first did it and my hubs are still in tip top shape. The first time I did this procedure was at 160,000kms (100,000 miles)the truck now has 280,000kms on it and I've just done this for a second time. For those of you who have replaced hubs, the procedure is basically the same; for those of you who haven't, its pretty straight forward and easy to do once you're in there.
1. Jack the truck up and support properly with jack stands.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove brake caliper and rotor. This is done by removing the two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the hub mount, pulling the vacuum line that operates the hub and removing the ABS sensor with a 5mm allen socket. Be sure to support the caliper as to not let it hang off of the sensor wire.
4. Next is to remove the four 18mm bolts that hold the hub in place, remove the spindle nut (13mm I think) and pull it out. At this point I take some brake clean and remove all of the grease that I can from the entire inner hub as well as inside where the needle bearing lives. Take a look at the gears and clean-up with some 150 grit paper if you see burrs from poor engagement. You'll most likely notice that the hub spins pretty freely at this point; I believe that Ford uses a very light grease from the factory to aid in mileage and possibly be able to sell parts in the future. I have not fully disassembled one of these things but have kept mine going for the last 280,000 kms by re-packing the needle bearing with a proper bearing grease; packing grease in and around all the nesting gears that engage the 4WD and MOST IMPORTANTLY packing grease into the ABS sensor hole which is what tightens up the entire hub and makes it feel like a properly greased bearing. A piece of 3/8 OD copper tubing is what I use, I fill the end (approx. 1") with grease, insert it into the sensor hole and use compressed air to blow it into the cavity; I do this until the hub spins smooth but not freely. If you think that this is a bad idea, don't do it! I'm just sharing what has worked for me, the steering feels better, hub operation is much smoother and they seem to last a long time by doing this.
5. Now that the hub is dealt with, its time to remove the upper control arm ball joint nut and swing the hub carrier out of the way so you can remove the outer part of the front drive shaft. There is a seal in there so be sure to go slow as to not damage it. I swing the CV shaft out of the way so that both the seal and the sealing surface of the CV can be cleaned and re-greased. Once again, I clean everything up with brake clean and re-grease the area between the 4WD gear and the seal as to tighten it up so its not loose and un-lubricated. I then lube the seal, the mating surface of the CV and put everything back together.
6. Installation is pretty much self explanatory and simply the reverse of what you've just done. Before you put the caliper back on, take a small piece of 3/16 ID hose and install it on the larger vacuum line for the hub. These hubs are normally closed which means that when there is no vacuum from the motor, the hubs are engaged and mated to the CV shafts. (If you spin the hub you'll see that the CV shaft spins as well.) Take your big mouth and suck on the hose you've installed and make sure that the hubs engage and disengage as they should; spin the part with the wheel studs and make sure that when you suck, it gets easy to turn and the CV shaft doesn't spin. When you release, the nesting gears will mate back up and engage the CV shaft again. If this all works, congratulations! You've just completed you first hub service and potentially saved yourself $600 for a new pair.
7. Bolt everything back together and double check all your fasteners, make sure the ABS sensor is back in place and your vacuum lines are hooked back up. Put your wheel or wheels back on and go for a test drive; you'll be rewarded by a nice firm, smooth feeling front end and buttery smooth hub engagement! (assuming everything else is in good shape as well.)
1. Jack the truck up and support properly with jack stands.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove brake caliper and rotor. This is done by removing the two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the hub mount, pulling the vacuum line that operates the hub and removing the ABS sensor with a 5mm allen socket. Be sure to support the caliper as to not let it hang off of the sensor wire.
4. Next is to remove the four 18mm bolts that hold the hub in place, remove the spindle nut (13mm I think) and pull it out. At this point I take some brake clean and remove all of the grease that I can from the entire inner hub as well as inside where the needle bearing lives. Take a look at the gears and clean-up with some 150 grit paper if you see burrs from poor engagement. You'll most likely notice that the hub spins pretty freely at this point; I believe that Ford uses a very light grease from the factory to aid in mileage and possibly be able to sell parts in the future. I have not fully disassembled one of these things but have kept mine going for the last 280,000 kms by re-packing the needle bearing with a proper bearing grease; packing grease in and around all the nesting gears that engage the 4WD and MOST IMPORTANTLY packing grease into the ABS sensor hole which is what tightens up the entire hub and makes it feel like a properly greased bearing. A piece of 3/8 OD copper tubing is what I use, I fill the end (approx. 1") with grease, insert it into the sensor hole and use compressed air to blow it into the cavity; I do this until the hub spins smooth but not freely. If you think that this is a bad idea, don't do it! I'm just sharing what has worked for me, the steering feels better, hub operation is much smoother and they seem to last a long time by doing this.
5. Now that the hub is dealt with, its time to remove the upper control arm ball joint nut and swing the hub carrier out of the way so you can remove the outer part of the front drive shaft. There is a seal in there so be sure to go slow as to not damage it. I swing the CV shaft out of the way so that both the seal and the sealing surface of the CV can be cleaned and re-greased. Once again, I clean everything up with brake clean and re-grease the area between the 4WD gear and the seal as to tighten it up so its not loose and un-lubricated. I then lube the seal, the mating surface of the CV and put everything back together.
6. Installation is pretty much self explanatory and simply the reverse of what you've just done. Before you put the caliper back on, take a small piece of 3/16 ID hose and install it on the larger vacuum line for the hub. These hubs are normally closed which means that when there is no vacuum from the motor, the hubs are engaged and mated to the CV shafts. (If you spin the hub you'll see that the CV shaft spins as well.) Take your big mouth and suck on the hose you've installed and make sure that the hubs engage and disengage as they should; spin the part with the wheel studs and make sure that when you suck, it gets easy to turn and the CV shaft doesn't spin. When you release, the nesting gears will mate back up and engage the CV shaft again. If this all works, congratulations! You've just completed you first hub service and potentially saved yourself $600 for a new pair.
7. Bolt everything back together and double check all your fasteners, make sure the ABS sensor is back in place and your vacuum lines are hooked back up. Put your wheel or wheels back on and go for a test drive; you'll be rewarded by a nice firm, smooth feeling front end and buttery smooth hub engagement! (assuming everything else is in good shape as well.)
Last edited by Bremworks; 12-26-2015 at 06:16 PM.
12-26-2015, 06:20 PM
#2
Good write up brother. I'm sure someone will get some use out of it. I know I couldn't find anything about it years ago when I fixed mine, so I had to go out on a whim. They crapped out a year later and then I paid to have them done.
