Sparkplug change: specific anti seize?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sparkplug change: specific anti seize?
Hi All,
Going to swap my plugs to the newer motorcrafts, when I acquired the 2006 5.4 they were just changed, however they used E3s which i believe are a 1 piece design and not highly rated.
I don't anticipate any issues extracting, but wondering if there is any recommended anti-seize to use on the new ones (cooper, silver, etc), as they have different operating temps. Did a quick search and didn't see this called out, some people use aluminum.
I'll also use some di-elec grease for the coils and clean the throttle body while doing all this.
thanks
Going to swap my plugs to the newer motorcrafts, when I acquired the 2006 5.4 they were just changed, however they used E3s which i believe are a 1 piece design and not highly rated.
I don't anticipate any issues extracting, but wondering if there is any recommended anti-seize to use on the new ones (cooper, silver, etc), as they have different operating temps. Did a quick search and didn't see this called out, some people use aluminum.
I'll also use some di-elec grease for the coils and clean the throttle body while doing all this.
thanks
#2
Senior Member
I didn't use any when I did mine (used MC latest edition).
Given the shorter change intervals, I wouldn't think it necessary. I did use copper on another plug change with solid results.
Given the shorter change intervals, I wouldn't think it necessary. I did use copper on another plug change with solid results.
#3
Senior Member
I used to but after a long talk with my tuner I don't anymore. That bright shiny finish is a form of antseize. If you're changing your plugs every couple years it shouldnt be an issue.
anti seize can create its own issues - screws up torque values if you believe in that kind of thing and too much will actually run down the strap and cause misfires (their shop always put fresh plugs in cars before tuning sessions with in-house built stuff. Out of nowhere everything was misfiring badly on the dyno...FNG was using way too much anti seize). Anti seize probably contributes to the old 4 thread heads launching plugs
anti seize can create its own issues - screws up torque values if you believe in that kind of thing and too much will actually run down the strap and cause misfires (their shop always put fresh plugs in cars before tuning sessions with in-house built stuff. Out of nowhere everything was misfiring badly on the dyno...FNG was using way too much anti seize). Anti seize probably contributes to the old 4 thread heads launching plugs
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Jimboy (10-08-2021)
#4
Chief Engineer
If you put anti seize on anything limit it to the tapered extension below the threads. The MC plugs have a coating on the threads right out of the box. Using anything but aluminum will create dissimilar metal issues, aluminum is next to zinc on the galvanic scale, and putting it on the threads will cause you to over torque them. Separate each boot from the COP and clean any corrosion from the area where the springs engage the COPs, and put some grease on the inside of the boot where it attaches to the COP and the spark plug.
I did this at my last spark plug change 10k miles ago and I can drive 5 hours without a single misfire.
I did this at my last spark plug change 10k miles ago and I can drive 5 hours without a single misfire.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info all, much appreciated!
Ya i wouldn't put the anti-seize on the threads for that over torque reason alone.
I'll omit the AS for this change.
cheers!
Ya i wouldn't put the anti-seize on the threads for that over torque reason alone.
I'll omit the AS for this change.
cheers!