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I would go with the heat gun. The back to black eventually comes off, and runs down your paint. If the heat gun doesn't do the trick, then I would just paint all the plastics with krylon fusion, satin black paint. First clean real good with a high quality degreaser, then a coat of adhesion promoter, and then paint.
As for the FPDM, make sure you get the new revised version, that has spacers ti make it sit off the crossmember.
Sounds good. It's just kind of a preventative maintenence item on these trucks.
If you go for the krylon, I had great results on my Ranger. All the plastics, including bedrails, and toolbox, were faded gray before. I never even put a clear coat on anything, and it lasted for over 4 years, when I got rid of it.
A few days ago I took a closer look at the door latch on the drivers side, turns out that one of the three bolts were missing and the two remaining were loose! Now it shuts just like the passenger side, requiring about the same effort as any other door.
Over the weekend I installed the Rancho QuickLift struts. All went well... it's weird not dealing with rusted fasteners!
UPDATE:
I have put over 10,000 miles on the truck so far! Very pleased with it, get lots of compliments, many can't believe it's 12 yrs old.
Here are some updates:
-A door latch bolt was missing, and two were loose, now door shuts much better.
-It barely ran one day and I got a code, flashing CEL. Replaced VCT solenoids with updated Motorcraft ones (2008+?), runs great now, and this also cured most of the startup noise before oil pressure builds.
-Felt a pulsation/vibration in the brake pedal. Replaced front rotors with PowerStop's (had excellent ratings), and Akebono ProACT ceramic pads (awesome, nearly no dust)... still had vib. Replaced rears with the same and it's now as smooth as silk, pedal is nice and high too. Odd that a rear rotor was warped!?
-One headlight had water inside, replaced both with smoked ebay ones.
-Replaced rear axle fluid.
-Oil changes ever 5K with semi-syn Motorcraft 5w-20.
Rancho leveling struts and Cooper 275 70 18 tires (basically same width as stock, but 1" taller). BTW, I set struts and shocks to #5, #3 was a bit too soft.
Currently have 139,000 miles on the truck. Has needed very little.
The drilled/slotted Powerstop rotors are RUSTING. Will never buy drilled/slotted again. Rust slowly makes it's way out of the holes/slots onto the face of the rotor. The Akebono proact pads lasted about 30,000 miles.
Replaced everything with Raybestos COATED rotors (hopefully rust less) and Raybestos Element3 ("hybrid"), pads (half price of Akebonos and good ratings). Everything from Rockauto for $250.
IWE's click every once in a while turning, I have replacements to put on some day.
Truck is seeing less mileage due to the 1995 diesel Mercedes Benz I picked up a year ago and put 12,000 miles on already!
I've got the same Raybestos rotors you bought (the ones painted gray). Put themon last month, with Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic in the front, and the Raybestos Element 3 pads in the rear.
I've got the same Raybestos rotors you bought (the ones painted gray). Put themon last month, with Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic in the front, and the Raybestos Element 3 pads in the rear.
That's interesting, using different pads in the front/rear.
07-30-2015, 11:09 AM
