Originally Posted by EdwinM1983

I have a 2005 ford expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4 v8. The truck started shaking real bad and shutting off on the lower rpm and once the truck was warm. Check engine light came on and when we checked the codes came up as p0012, p0022, p0300, p0345. We also got a random cylinder misfire reading as well. So I changed all 8 of the engine coils and one of the vct solenoids and it ran fine all day until now! Same exact problem! Did I forget to fix something? Is there anything else I should look into? I just need some advice instead of the dealer telling me I need a new motor. Also it has 150,000 miles!

Originally Posted by Stinger381

Here is my latest issue that I am having with my engine timing. I did the whole nine yards on my 5.4 expedition a few months ago and the truck ran like hell. A few days after replacing my phasers, vct solenoids, chains, tensioners, crank sprocket, and cam position sensors. I was still seeing the trucks engine skip when getting the engine warm. I replaced the dorman brand vct with what o'reilly's had in stock, a tech smart brand vct. The part looked better and it solved my skip. Fast forward to today and the truck starts skipping again. Code reader says it is the dreaded P0022 cam over retard - bank 2. Well I immediately pulled the remaining dorman vct and returned it to o'reilly's and was happily given a dorman replacement. I installed it and there was no change. The truck still skipped when the engine got warm. I read that the P0022 error occurs sometimes when the alternator is failing. Well mine had 125,000 miles on it so I decided to put a new one on. Call it preventive maintenance because it did not solve my problem. I took it to the dealer and they claimed it was the valve body in the head that the vct installs inside. They claimed it was clogged up. I took it off and there was no issue with the valve body. I began to think it was an oil pressure issue so I flushed the engine and drained the oil. Then I dropped the oil pan and did find plastic pieces from the old chain guides clogging the oil pickup tube. I cleaned all that out and expected the engine to run correctly. Wrong again. So as a last ditch effort before I pulled the timing cover and checked the timing I swapped the vct solenoids from left to right and right to left. I still have the skip but the error code changed to P0012. So the problem has now moved to Bank 1. This looks simple now. The dorman Vct is bad and this means 3 out of 3 dorman vct's that I purchased were bad. I am done with dorman for a while. I have spent way too much time working on all of this. I will keep you posted if the new tech smart vct solves my issue later tonight.

Originally Posted by ColoradoGreg

Thought I could finally jump in on this Thread. I’ve been subscribed since March, and it’s only because of the information here, that I was able to tackle this job, and have the confidence to knock it out myself, and save 1500 bucks in the process!!!

So first off – Thanks S_Vares for starting the thread, and giving us the drawings and tips to get this done.
This job took me about 13 hours start to finish, with moderate breaks during the day. Tear down took 6-7 hours, Being in the Timing Gear set, making sure to check and double check everything took 2 hours alone (although it could have been much less, I checked things over, and over, and over) And about 4 hours to get it all put back together. Yes, goes together MUCH FASTER than it comes apart, once you have the timing cover back on and you’re confident its right.
2005 F150 5.4 169,000 Miles
Tips and tricks.
First off – Do not disconnect any AC or Power Steering lines. You can do this job without discharging AC or having Power Steering everywhere.
Get at the Transmission fluid dipstick bracket from under the passenger side wheel well. Much easier to get an extension in there, than working over the top of the motor. Push the tube under the AC line, to hold it out of the way.
Passenger Side Valve Cover – Tight to get out, but once you “adjust” the AC lines about 2 inches, you can slide it out. BE CAREFUL not to tear that Valve Cover Gasket. And once you have the cover out, cover that camshaft with some shop towels, to minimize dirt in there.

Driver Side Valve Cover – Surprisingly tight to get out because of the Vacuum tube from the back of the engine to the Booster. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the booster, and the bracket from under the valve cover, and use a bungee to hold it up and tight against the firewall. It tended to fall and just muck up an easy part of the job. Also, power steering bracket comes out. Very easy to get bottom bolt. Use 18mm on an air ratchet, and it zips right out. Unbolt bracket from PS Reservoir and just swing reservoir out of the way.

Front Cover. AC Compressor Stays. Unbolt PS Pump and let it drop down and away. 3 bolts. Somewhat easy. Water pump pulley, spring tensioned and 2 idlers and you have the clearance. There are brackets that hold the trans cooler lines at the bottom, as well as some various wiring harnesses. Be careful, and you can get them out without breaking them. I found pulling the AC Connector, Crank Sensor, and oil level sensor harness out, and swinging it out of the way makes it much cleaner to get the cover off.
Unbolt the cover, and take your time. It’ll come off with a few smacks with a wood block and hammer.
As soon as that cover is off, stuff a rag into the front of the pan, to keep from knocking anything down there.
Inside the Timing Cover – Make sure you CHECK, Check, and Check again your torque values. I did this 10 times I bet. But, it’s WORTH IT. An extra hour in there makes sure you don’t have to do this again. I did use Blue Loctitie as well.
Torque the Phaser bolts was tough, but it’s doable. Vice Grips between 2 of the lobes on the Camshaft, and a block of wood for it to rest against, and you can get that 90 degree swing no issue. Be CAREFUL around those cam journals, but in between, the Vice Grips will mar it a little. That’s FINE. I put my grips between the #1 and #5 intakes and exhaust valves.
Timing Guides – My Pass side guide was broken in 5 pieces. Was lucky, found every piece, so I didn’t have to drop the pan. Whew. Got the Guides replaced, put the chain on, and the Cloyes kit had the proper guides, and chains have the dark links, so they went on without a hitch. I used a permanent marker to color in the timing mark on the crank sprocket. Much easier to see. MAKE SURE TO PUT THE CRANK TIMING RELUCTOR RING BACK before you put it back together. Replaced the crank seal, wiped the sealing surface back down, glued the gasket in place on the cover, and dabbed the grey RTV at each mating joint, and it was back on. Place the bottom of the cover on the lip of the oil pan, and tip it into place bringing the top of the cover from the radiator to the engine slowly. This will keep the Grey RTV on the lip of the oil pan, and reduce your leaks.
Torque the bolts, move on.
Passenger Valve cover goes on MUCH FASTER than it comes off. Glue the gasket in place with some dabs of Grey RTV, and Place some RTV in the joints of the Timing cover/Head, and slam it home. I did NOT put the bolts in until the valve cover was in place. I took them out, and let the ratchet do the work for me. This kept the bolts from hanging up on anything, and then used the torque wrench to send them home.
Driver Side Valve Cover – Same thing. Glue gasket in; put the bolts in AFTER it’s in place. Air Ratchet makes this process nice. TORQUE THOSE BOLTS. 18 ft lbs is not a whole lot, and they will break.
Reassembly order for me after this point was
Trans line brackets to bottom of timing cover
COP’s on both sides
Wiring Harnesses for COP’s
AC lines/Brackets/Accumulator on Pass Side
Power Steering Pump
Power Steering Bracket/Reservoir
Crank Pulley
Water Pump Pulley
BELT (Way easier before Fan is there)
Trans fluid dipstick tube bracket
Oil dipstick tube bracket
Fan/Shroud
Air Intake Tube
Battery Box/Battery (4x4 vacuum box is attached to Battery Box – BE CAREFUL. Don’t break the box or the line
Keep old oil in the truck. Double check oil levels, put your foot to the floor on the Accelerator, and crank it. As long as your foot is to the floor, and not on a floor mat, it will be in “clear flood” mode, and will not start. Crank it till you get oil pressure. 3 times of 10 seconds a piece and I was fully pressurized
Say a prayer. Start it up. It will be quiet and smooth.
2 days after, my experience. There is no more noise starting up in the morning. I also no longer have Chain slap around 800 RPM like I did before in the worst way. I do have tiny bit of “normal” phaser noise around 800-900 RPM. Even with new phasers, it’s not 100% quiet. But you have to be in a drive through to hear it, unlike before, where you could hear it with windows up and AC on.
Drive it a day or 2, then change the oil. Let the oil get as much out as it can.
And, Replace the filter with the FL-820S Motorcraft Filter from now on. 5/20 Also (I use synthetic now, but I don’t drive a whole lot, so it’s only 3 times a year)
Bought my parts from Rock Auto. Bought the torque wrenches from Amazon. Oil and Filter from Oreilly.
Ask any questions, I’m also available to give help and advice.
Greg

Originally Posted by 964x4kid

i am new to the forum i have used the helpful info here for years however, recently i had everything replaced on my truck phasers, tensioners, guides, new gaskets, chains, and so on. I currently use the recomended 5/20 and recommended ford oil filter. No more codes and runs smooth but im getting alot of front end noise like the chain perhaps. When the parts are new do they require a break in period? I just dont understand why all of these new parts are in and it runs sharp that it makes noise in the front. I'm debating about putting some thicker lucas additive in it to maybe get a good sticky coating on the chain in hopes that quites it down..? any advise is appreciated! Thanks