The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#3051
Cam Phaser
See this thread for the manual: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/free-20...manual-298753/
By removing the spark plugs, it would make the engine easier to turn over but you should have to remove them. If you do, you should be able to re-use them.
At this point, I believe you need to do the phaser repair because the damage is already done. Better oil may or may not prolong the time the phasers need to be replaced.
By removing the spark plugs, it would make the engine easier to turn over but you should have to remove them. If you do, you should be able to re-use them.
At this point, I believe you need to do the phaser repair because the damage is already done. Better oil may or may not prolong the time the phasers need to be replaced.
Thanks. I meant a better oil pump. Ive seen that might make a difference. But understand since codes are thrown the issue is already there.
T
#3054
Geez, mega thread!
Mine makes 2 second start up noise, and hot ticking sound 900-1,100 RPM when driving next to a building or wall.
My tentative plan is ordering the kit that FordTechMakuloco recommends, all OEM from Amazon. I don't think there is a better price? I assume it has all the latest Ford parts.
Also installing a Melling M360 oil pump.
Mine makes 2 second start up noise, and hot ticking sound 900-1,100 RPM when driving next to a building or wall.
My tentative plan is ordering the kit that FordTechMakuloco recommends, all OEM from Amazon. I don't think there is a better price? I assume it has all the latest Ford parts.
Also installing a Melling M360 oil pump.
#3055
LightningRod
I think you are generally on the right track. I would just add - many of us here prefer the cast iron tensioners (particularly those ratchet type). And if you have the classic 'lifter' type tick at hot idle - consider replacing some or all lash adjusters and possibly some roller/followers. If the roller has play in its bearing, or a lash adjuster will not pump up an stay under valve spring tension - you're going to still have the damn tick. (It's source is different from the classic 5.4L "diesel" sound you get from phasers. And be sure to go the extra mile and drop the pan / clean the pickup tube screen of broken guide plastic - or it can negate the benefit of your new pump.
#3056
TOTM November 2019
iTrader: (2)
I have a question that probably cant be answered, but I will try. I installed an Intelletronix oil pressure gauge with electronic sending unit. My hot idle was 41 psi, so I emailed the company and they had me do some grounding of the gauge and sending unit and told me most likely the sending unit was bad. Got a second sending unit and same reading, 40 psi at hit idle. Is this even possible on a 07 5.4 with 156K on it? Runs like a top, never any issues, I just wanted a gauge to watch for any signs of future failure. As for my question, what happens to hot idle when lock-outs are installed? I dont know the history of the truck for its first 113k, other than the guy who owned its dad had a truck only repair shop and the truck was always serviced there. Is 40 psi hot idle possible?
#3057
LightningRod
I think 40 psi at hot idle is possible. Is it a good thing (on a 5.4 with 156K)???? I don't think so based on several logical reasoning points involving things like the benefit of fresh oil moving around the engine all the time - for lubrication AND cooling purposes. I think I would question it for sure. Based on my experience dating back to the days of 'Babbitt rod/main bearings', and oil pumps driven by a 1/4" rod off the bottom of the distributor gear - I believe you should look for a second 'reading' - not a second 'opinion'.
I seem to remember you installed an oil filter sandwich adapter, did you not? If so - I recommend getting a cheap mechanical gauge for $20 bucks and rig it up on there - even if temporary.
With the oil pump driven directly by Crank rotation - (based on physics of hydraulics) I believe the Oil Pump is capable of generating 40 PSI at 600 RPM - if the volume of oil being moved has NO PLACE TO GO. THAT is the issue if you truly have 40 psi into a restricted path that typically produces only 15 - 25 lbs on most similar vehicles. I 'think' oil pressure port is post oil filter - thus a plugged or clogged oil filter would NOT be reflected on your gauge. Therefore - any restriction resulting in your elevated pressure reading would be toward the main galley. In my view - that would not a good thing.
If you verify the pressure is accurate - I would recommend monitoring engine Oil Temperature because the quick rise in pressure being created by the pump would have to significantly raise operating oil temperature. I have and will share with you the OBDII PID and formula for monitoring Oil Temperature with Torque Pro.
I seem to remember you installed an oil filter sandwich adapter, did you not? If so - I recommend getting a cheap mechanical gauge for $20 bucks and rig it up on there - even if temporary.
With the oil pump driven directly by Crank rotation - (based on physics of hydraulics) I believe the Oil Pump is capable of generating 40 PSI at 600 RPM - if the volume of oil being moved has NO PLACE TO GO. THAT is the issue if you truly have 40 psi into a restricted path that typically produces only 15 - 25 lbs on most similar vehicles. I 'think' oil pressure port is post oil filter - thus a plugged or clogged oil filter would NOT be reflected on your gauge. Therefore - any restriction resulting in your elevated pressure reading would be toward the main galley. In my view - that would not a good thing.
If you verify the pressure is accurate - I would recommend monitoring engine Oil Temperature because the quick rise in pressure being created by the pump would have to significantly raise operating oil temperature. I have and will share with you the OBDII PID and formula for monitoring Oil Temperature with Torque Pro.
#3058
TOTM November 2019
iTrader: (2)
I think I need to get torque pro. Yes, I did hook it up with a sandwich adapter. I am also going to look for a cheap mechanical gauge and 1/8" fitting with line and go from there. I think maybe the Intelletronix sending units are junk. My Glowshift read right at 17psi and I had my hopes it would be closer to 25psi. Thanks for the insight thus far. Thing is, this truck may be one of the best running vehicles I have ever had.
#3059
LightningRod
LOCKOUTs effect on idle oil pressure
That's great, and we want to keep it that way. With the multiple ports on that sandwich adapter it would be totally easy. I might do it the way I did on my boat, just mount the gauge on the fender well and not worry about routing six feet of tubing inside the cab. The only concern is basically idle pressure anyway.
Back to another interesting question in your prior post - "what happens to hot idle when lock-outs are installed?". The phaser chambers (and the chain tensioners) represent the 'end of the line' of the oil system pathways. Minor 'seepage' / 'leakage' from those parts constructed without seals provides oil to cam chains and gears. Normally as the phasers operate toward advance or retard - the oil volume in the opposite phaser chamber(s) is 'expelled' back through the VCT Solenoid as NEW oil fills the PCM's desired phaser chambers. That of course is NOT happening on yours with the lockouts preventing internal phaser movement. The only other escape path for oil in cylinder heads is that small amount 'pissed' out the top of the lash adjusters that weeps down on the roller / followers, cam and valve stem-rocker junctions. And of course whatever oil manages to escape main/rod/cam bearing surfaces throughout the oiling system.
Given that fact no phaser action is being requested at idle - no oil would be being expelled from phaser chambers WITH or WITHOUT lockouts. So my assessment would be that Lockouts have NO effect on idle oil pressure. On the other hand - under NORMAL operation - the phasers are actuating forward / backward pretty much all the time expelling some quantity of oil out of opposing chambers, back through the VCT solenoids, down the front of the block back, into the pan. The effect of this would be primarily in the cooling effect of oil movement through the system and heads. Lockouts would - by defeating this effect - reduce oil movement volume and therefore raise EOT , but have no effect on oil pressure.
THISI (That's how I see it).
The following users liked this post:
Summers22 (02-25-2017)
#3060
TOTM November 2019
iTrader: (2)
Oh, I dont have lock-outs that I know of. I was just wondering if the 40psi hot idle was true (which I believe it not to be), if maybe at some point in the 113K prior to my ownership that the PO had installed them. I was never given that information and I had no issue installing tunes from my Edge Evolution or after I converted it to a Gryphon. I also have read that if a Livernois tune is installed with lockouts, that you can stack a tune on top of it. Not sure if thats actually true or not. I all comes down to the fact I need to get Torque Pro and a mechanical gauge at this point if i really want a true reading of what my engine is doing.