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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old 03-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #41
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Since u have it opened up replace all components. Or. Just replaceTensioners and guides. Leave chains in place .. if you have high mileage. Chains do stretch and if phazers are original. Replace everything. . .. chains tensioners guides crank sprocket. Phazers. Rock auto. Com has a timing kit. In clues all except phazers ... kit is 187.00. I'm about to do what I just mentioned above
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:30 AM   #42
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Since u have it opened up replace all components. Or. Just replaceTensioners and guides. Leave chains in place .. if you have high mileage. Chains do stretch and if phazers are original. Replace everything. . .. chains tensioners guides crank sprocket. Phazers. Rock auto. Com has a timing kit. In clues all except phazers ... kit is 187.00. I'm about to do what I just mentioned above
Amen.

Its about 3 hours more work to change everthing, but so worth it.
Dont have to worry about it and engine is ready for another 200,000
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:31 PM   #43
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I am in the process of doing the phasers, and the whole timing kit with chains and tensioners etc. How easy is it to tell if the lash adjuster is bad or has pumped down? Is it movable by hand if its bad? Thank you
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:19 PM   #44
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you will be able to move the rocker freely if its pumped down.
its hard to tell on them, if its collapsed then replace it. when in doubt, replace all.
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:21 PM   #45
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Thank you they all seem good. I can't budge them. The seals on the tensioners were trash and drivers side chain was tight on inside half and pretty loose on outside half. Was slapping the cover pretty good on that side
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:52 PM   #46
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Thank you they all seem good. I can't budge them. The seals on the tensioners were trash and drivers side chain was tight on inside half and pretty loose on outside half. Was slapping the cover pretty good on that side

Good job, looks like you found the problem.
You will feel much better doing it yourself.

If you read my tips, you will see i like to use a dab of blue loctite on all bolts INSIDE the timing cover. Just extra insurance that they will stay put
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:22 PM   #47
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Ok, well I am halfway through. got all the covers off and old chains tensioners ect. pulled out. Will bgin reinstall in the morning. Quite a project as i am no mechanic, just a guy who fixes things when they are broke. It has taken me a day and a half to this point.

observations so far : got the left side cover off without unhooking ac. to do this I pulled the battery and battery holder then unbolted the accumulater and any associated line mounts. Then I pulled everything up and back until i got clearence. I am sure putting the cover back on will be just as big a pain in the a**.

My chains were looose and the tensioners shot but no damage was done. The seals on the tensioners were completely flattend out. The bolts were tight, probaly tourqued down too tight at the factory.

The cams an followers all appear to be in good shape and I can't move the followers down so I hope this means the lash adjusters are good

Truck has 165,000 on it and I have owned it since new. In preperation for this project I did and autorx flush beginning about 6,000 miles ago. Now I don't know if this stuff is snake oil or not but the engine is absoulutly clean. I was very surprised by this. I have always used mobil 1 but was not diligent enough about oil changes. Will be from now on.

Not sure about this but my old crank sprocket just slid right off and the new one easily slides back on the crank? Does not appear to be any damage to the crank or key? I at least expected this to be a tap fit.

I will post final results in a day or two
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:14 PM   #48
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S_Vares,

Ran into a little problem, The rh chain guide that came in the cloyes kit is a little different. It did not come withe the top bolt bushing, so I popped the bushing out of the old one and noticed that the molded plastic depth setting for the bushing on the new cloyes guide is much lower than the original guide. The left guide is ok but both are stamped 2v while my origanals are stamped 2v/3v. Have you noticed this? As much as I hate to I am probably going to put the old guide back in cause I just don't trust the way the bushing sits in the new one. If this guide came with a shorter bushing than I think the factory bolt would be too long.

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:58 PM   #49
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I have not had a problem with the cloves kit before, I do remember the guides looking a little different.
Did you use Part # 9-0391SB?
Maybe call cloves and ask them. Otherwise, reusing the old one is not the end of the world, but it shouldnt be nescessary.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:10 PM   #50
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There was in fact a smaller bushing, it had fallen out and into the open bag of the tensioners. I found it while installing the tensoiners. The cloyes kit is fine just my oversight.

thanks again for your help
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:29 PM   #51
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this should be made into a sticky
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:09 AM   #52
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yes i agree i get tired of trying to find
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:31 AM   #53
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Absolutely. !!! Sticky. !!
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:05 AM   #54
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OH! good to hear, I was starting to feel like an *** for recommending that kit. Ive used it with no issues on many cars, and the quality always seems like OEM or better.

Did you get her cranked up yet? Im happy to see everyone fixing it right with good outcome.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:45 PM   #55
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Fired right back up!!! So far no more phaser knocking. I have only idled it to temperature as I decided to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and do a system flush. Trying to get trapped air out of the system now.

Few notes for others: Re installing the passenger side valve cover was much easier than getting it off. I taped the back half cover bolts in the up position with electical tape. This allowed it to slide in easier without getting hung up. I think if I had to do it again, I would pull these bolts before removing the cover. That with loosening the accumulater as I did would make that cover come out fairly easy. Just had no desire to recover and recharge the system.

I found the power steering bracket not to bad to deal with. Just back it out about 3/4 of the way and the bracket will slip right off.

The back passenger valve cover bolt was the hardest to get to. I needed an extension between the sizes i had. Wound up useing a knuckle and breaking the bolt on reinstall. Hopefully it won't leak.

Make sure you reinstall the crank sensor into the timming cover before reinstall. I forgot and wound up having to drop the ac compressor to gain clearence.

Thanks again s_vares for putting toghether all this info.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:22 PM   #56
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Good to hear! How did you know the engine was at TDC when you pulled the chains? I've seen pictures of cam lobes but they arent clear to me.

Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:57 PM   #57
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You do not necessarily have to have it at exactly tdc. I lined up the harmonic balancer notch to the mark on the engine block. When I pulled the covers off, the crankshaft key was at about 10 o'clock. I verified the "r" and "LH" marks on the cam phaser sprockets were facing up on the correct side (each phaser has both markings). If they were opposite of what they should be you would need to rotate the crank 1 full turn. I then turned the crank to get the key to 12 o'clock. (like the diagram s-vares posted) This makes it a bit easier to see the chain alignment mark on the crank sprocket. Since the cam phase sprockets are pinned to the camshafts they can only go on 1 way. All you have to do is make sure the colored chain links line up with the marks and the mark on the crank sprocket. The cams are under spring pressure and will move when you pull off the chains and sprocket. No big deal, I just turned them back to position when reinstalling the phasers.

Just went on a 5 mile test run. So much better. More power and smoother when accelerating than before. I do not hear any knocking noise from inside the cab like i used to at idle. There is still a very slight knocking if i get out and really listen. The chain slap is completly gone as well.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:22 AM   #58
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Some of you have have ticking, listen in your front wheel wells. Studs on the exhaust manifold like to break and they are hard to see, these manifold crack too Injectors on these trucks make noise.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:58 PM   #59
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Another question here, all parts finally in and wondering do I have to have the special tool that it shows to use on all data for the crank seal on timing cover? Or any tips or tricks if I don't have it? Thank you
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:52 PM   #60
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No, you can punch out the seal after the cover has been removed. To reinstall use a big socket to tap in or something with a similar diameter. (i used the old seal and a block of wood)
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:52 PM
 
 
 
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