F150Torqued

I think we are saying the same thing.


The 10340 mounts and fits in the same place as the original, so presumably input / output orifices are the same. But hot idle oil pressure with the 10340 is about 10 lbs higher after my timing job with no changes in bearings, oil galleys, restrictors, tensioners or phasers - the 10340 must move more volume for a given RPM. The Gearator gear cavities must be designed to move more oil. The bypass spring is set to bypass at 90 lbs.

lowridergold

I am having rough idle after all timing parts change I posted a thread on my situation if you want to take a look and have ideas I have read this whole thing and checked everything.

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/2005-f150-lariat-5-4-idle-fine-park-rough-idle-gear-no-power-356470/

Livernois Motorsports

We recommend tearing it apart and retiming the motor. I would make sure that you follow the OE timing procedures. This rough idle typically happens most frequently if a cam is moved during the phaser removal or reinstallation process.

lowridergold

I have torn it apart 3 times to double check the timing and it is still timed I had the cams held in place the may have moved a small amount but not much all went together fine

lowridergold

The cams will only line up one way as well once you have the phaser on so the timing marks lin the crank with cams that's why this issue doesn't make sense to me

F150Torqued

How many miles on the engine? Have you considered injectors. I replaced ALL 8 (with NEW, not remans) when I did my timing job. I can't say authoritatively that that is the precious reason - but is striking how smooth the ole engine idles now.


I damn well know how expensive that option is, and I have NO idea how they can TRULY be cleaned or their uniformity / volume delivery can be checked or verified. AND I had lots of trouble getting what I considered good reliable information absent sales B/S. But I certainly have had no regrets. Mine had 212K miles at the time, and plenty of people swear they NEVER wear out. But prior to the timing job, my symptoms were, like so many, very ragged idle after warm-up and disappeared with slightest RPMs.


And I agree with you. Proper timing of the cam phasers / chains / crank is not that difficult by simply following the advice on THIS thread. So I believe (in my case at least) that I had inconsistent fuel delivery by the old injectors - that the ECU was able to compensate for via Fuel Trims, which were, by the way, OUT OF WHACK. But if the ECU must lengthen/ or shorten/ fuel trims to compensate for an injector that is not delivering an equal amount of fuel - that means the other cylinders are getting TOO much / or TOO little. And the O2 sensor can still be satisfied based on the average fuel/air mixture across the whole bank of cylinders. This situation is DEFINATELY aggravated at low RPMs, and you will NOT receive a DTC unless fuel trims exceed + / - 25%.


JMO for your consideration.
Good Luck

lowridergold

I got 330 000 km on it and done nothing to fuEl injectors in the 2 years I have had it I did read on my freeve frame data that one stfp was at 13 and all the other stfp and ltfp were at 26

buening

I apologize if I've missed it, but has anyone created a step-by-step how-to on doing the phasers/tensioners (either video or thread w/pics)?

lowridergold

There is a good 4 part video on you tube that goes into detail I used that at works good it is good to have a manual with you for torque specs but other than that it's not that hard just time consuming I will see if I can post the link

lowridergold

https://youtu.be/qpPs9KuJmqM that's what I used tell you everything